outeast350z

I have a 05 350, not sure of the trim package, but I've been stirring work some camber issues. I have a set of avant garde m560s (the limited run with work wheels) and they are huge...11.5in the rear I believe. I use this car a my daily and I'm tied of putting tires on in yearly. My car is stock height and I'm liking into a set of camber arms. My fenders I believe are rolled(I'd have to look). But my question is well I be able to get to zero camber without hitting the fender? Any help is appreciated. Thanks

MicVelo

Not clear on why you'd want to go zero on camber. Min camber is -1.1-deg and max range mark is -2.1-deg. Setting camber at zero will absolutely destroy the turn in and steering attitude; plus, negates the reason to go to a wide wheel and tire set up to begin with since some camber is your friend to maximize contact patch in turns. But your choice/car... Yes, most camber arms typically can go to zero if necessary.

outeast350z

Thanks for the reply MicVelo. Maybe zero was an inaccurate term, kinda new to this...My tires are about 11 and a half inches wide and I ride on probably 8inches in not less. My question was is it possible to straighten them out without hitting my fenders, as the wear on my tires now is pretty severe.

BQPham

Here's the other question, when was the last time you did an alignment and was it in spec? Bad toe can wear out the tires even quicker than camber.

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

I think adding what size tires you are running might help some of the members here compare their set-up to yours. In addition to having an alignment done or a spec sheet of your last alignment.

MicVelo

^^^ These answers.

In addition, describe or post pic of the tire wear. That tells a lot more than words.
Also, what is the frequency of tire replacement? Z33s are already somewhat unfriendly to tires in the rear, even with proper alignment. So if your definition of "too frequent" means 20k, well, that's fairly normal on a performance tuned Z car.

Guessing from your comment about wanting to straighten the wheel/tire that you're having inside tire edge wear. Comment above about "latest alignment" above is also telling,

S'far as if there's enough fender clearance is a matter of tire and wheel size. The distinction between, say, a 275/35-18 and a 275/40 can be quite profound, Post your tire sizes, wheel sizes with OFFSET then maybe someone can offer advice versus guesses.

outeast350z

My last alignment was done the last time I changed tires..a year and a half ago,give or take it might be longer, buy I only drive my car 8months out of the year if that. My tires are 305/30/19 and the shop said they couldnt fix the camber due to the stock camber arms not allowing enough movement to straighten them.

19x9.5+20 front
19+11+18 rear

MicVelo

Adjusting camber isn’t going to help you. That’s a pretty normal wear pattern; as a matter of fact, there’s nothing really out of the ordinary that I can see. They’re just plain done. The exposed cords on the inside edge appeared way before the center tread went away completely, obviously, but still normal given average camber (middle of range).

Can’t tell you why you’re prematurely wearing them at this point without know your driving habits or brand of tire but I’d guess a cheap brand or perhaps a super soft compounded tire like DOT race tires.

outeast350z

They are hankook v12 ventus I just want them top wear a little more evenly because I still have almost perfect tread of the outer wheel I just want them to stand up a little more to get a little more tread on the ground. They are also visibly cambered when on the car

MicVelo

Understood. SPL, SPC, ISR, etc. should all help you get the rear alignment back into spec which is probably down in the -3.0 deg if you can see it.

E.G., https://conceptzperformance.com/item...2&p=116&page=1

Is the car on standard/stock suspension or lowered/modified? Guessing it's lowered a fair amount for the camber to be visibly out of spec.

outeast350z

Its standard suspension and height, visibly cambered due top added 4 inches to each wheel, the front isn't cambered at all due to My last alignment. I'm sorry I'm kinda of car illiterate I don't know what the abbreviations you used mean, but thank you for the assistance,I do appreciate it

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

Dry rot on a year and a half old tires
Hard to believe those are only a year and a half old

MicVelo

No worries. The "acronyms", SPC, SPL, etc. are brand names for suspension components with the link to the page of such components on ConceptZ (not playing favorites, it's just the first bookmark I grabbed).

Not really sure what you're saying about the visible camber.... 4 inches added to what? You didn't add 4 inches of width - "only" 60 mm or ~2.5" width. And not height/diameter since stock 18s in comparison are 26.68" tall versus your 305s at 26.2" or a reduction in height of almost half inch. Given your wheel/tire width and rear wheel offset, I'm guessing you don't have a lot of room to take out the camber; but, since you're at stock height, the good news is that if it's sitting at my speculated (heavily speculated because no pics) -3.0 degs camber, you SHOULD be able to bring it back into the proper spec range with no interference (once camber arms are installed). But that's just a guess without actual hands on or alignment specs. Did you keep the alignment sheet when it was last done?

outeast350z

I dont.have the alignment sheet...and as far as adding inches I assumed stock rims are what 8.5? And.mine are 11.5 (3in. Sorry bad maths) idk im completely.out of.my element. That being said these rims were made for the 350/370 g35/37 wheelbase. Idk if that means anything or they just assumed ppl would want to run cambered wheels. Idk.