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HELP!! Car won't start!!
No engine cranking or anything. Can't get that far. I put the key in the ignition and go to the ON position. The system checks and hums aren't there. My dash doesn't light up. The lights, horn, and locks work fine. It's not a problem with the clutch switch, because I would at least have some response from the car in the "ON" position at least, right?
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Re: HELP!! Car won't start!!
Originally posted by afr0puff No engine cranking or anything. Can't get that far. I put the key in the ignition and go to the ON position. The system checks and hums aren't there. My dash doesn't light up. The lights, horn, and locks work fine. It's not a problem with the clutch switch, because I would at least have some response from the car in the "ON" position at least, right? |
It was one of the 12 different ignition fuses. It's not a separate, single fuse either. It's part of one of those "tetris" shaped fuses. Two ABS fuses are part of the same block. My parts department better have this in stock! Pics:
http://web.njit.edu/~aslam/g35/IMG_0552.JPG http://web.njit.edu/~aslam/g35/IMG_0554.JPG You can see the 40 amp fuse fried. |
Originally posted by afr0puff It was one of the 12 different ignition fuses. It's not a separate, single fuse either. It's part of one of those "tetris" shaped fuses. Two ABS fuses are part of the same block. My parts department better have this in stock! |
There's a chip inside our keys? So the only way to get a duplicate key is through nissan?
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Originally posted by shopdog Fuses generally blow for a reason. You'd better find the short before sticking another of those odd fuses in and watching it blow too. |
Originally posted by Ninetysix There's a chip inside our keys? So the only way to get a duplicate key is through nissan? |
Originally posted by afr0puff Wear and tear? How would I even go about finding a short in the ignition system? If it is less, you're going to have to start unplugging circuits until the short is relieved. The last thing you unplug will be what's shorted. If you have the shop manual with the wiring diagram, you can go about this in a logical manner. If you don't, the first things I'd unplug would be the ignition harness, and then the ECU. The unitary ignition modules draw a lot of current, and would be the most likely circuits connected to this fuse which could have failed and caused the fuse to blow. The ECU is the other major possibility. After that, it could be a wire whose insulation has rubbed through and allowed a harness wire to short to the body. That could be a bear to find. |
Thank you all for your Ideal. When I checked the battery again it was dead. So I bought a new one and it started right up. Damn shame Auto Zone doesn't know how to tell if a battery is bad.
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Originally Posted by billydabiller
(Post 10612212)
Thank you all for your Ideal. When I checked the battery again it was dead. So I bought a new one and it started right up. Damn shame Auto Zone doesn't know how to tell if a battery is bad.
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