convertible top problem
#61
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You used a DIY elastic instead of Nissan parts? I'd be interested in your choice as Nissan probably wants a lot for a couple of rubber bands.
#63
Hi everyboddy. My name is Miro.
I have nissan 350z model 2004. I just change my top soft and on the next day the convertible was not anymore working. i have this problem allready 3 monts.
I am traing to open by my selfe (manually),but is very difficoult and hart to do it. So if i traid to open i can see that the two engine on the do not have a good sinchronisation and thew do not have a enaugh power to open the convertible.So if i push the switch to open the convertible top soft,the windows are comming down and the seat also is moving,but then after is nothing. Can you please tell me what for problem can be this?Is there any one who have an idea what can be the reason for this problem?
Thank you very much.
I have nissan 350z model 2004. I just change my top soft and on the next day the convertible was not anymore working. i have this problem allready 3 monts.
I am traing to open by my selfe (manually),but is very difficoult and hart to do it. So if i traid to open i can see that the two engine on the do not have a good sinchronisation and thew do not have a enaugh power to open the convertible.So if i push the switch to open the convertible top soft,the windows are comming down and the seat also is moving,but then after is nothing. Can you please tell me what for problem can be this?Is there any one who have an idea what can be the reason for this problem?
Thank you very much.
#64
5th bow motor repair
I was having the same problem. The motor quit about a week ago. If you remove the bow motor, the brushes may have extended as far as they can go because of the wire feading it. I simply flipped the brushes so the wire follows in behind the brushes and cleaned up the crap from a poor built japanese window motor and now it works fine. Im sure it will go out again probably within the next year.
So if you test the motors and they read fine it could be the soft top control unit or the prox switches. If you have damaged the board let me know. You can do a jumper on the peg side.
Sincerely,
Eddie
#65
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My turn
Dealer says "5th bow motor" and "not covered" under my "Security+Plus" warranty, even though "convertible top hydraulic motors" are specifically listed under "What's covered". They said it will cost either $1419 or $2117 to replace.
I bought the top-of-the-line extended warranty for my '05 specifically in case something like this happened, so ... I'm going to call NNA tomorrow.
Thanks for all the great info, forum-people. Already ready about KombatKing, but was anybody else successful in having the 5th bow motor replaced under the extended warranty?
(And yes, I lubed a lot, Sluggo )
Dealer says "5th bow motor" and "not covered" under my "Security+Plus" warranty, even though "convertible top hydraulic motors" are specifically listed under "What's covered". They said it will cost either $1419 or $2117 to replace.
I bought the top-of-the-line extended warranty for my '05 specifically in case something like this happened, so ... I'm going to call NNA tomorrow.
Thanks for all the great info, forum-people. Already ready about KombatKing, but was anybody else successful in having the 5th bow motor replaced under the extended warranty?
(And yes, I lubed a lot, Sluggo )
Last edited by Blooster; 02-14-2011 at 04:23 PM.
#66
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5th bow - part number??
Learned that top for this car has 4 motors - a left and a right for soft top, one for hard shell and one for the 5th bar - the rear portion of the soft top that opens first prior to hard shell. They feel this 5th bar motor is my problem.
...
Result;Replaced 5th bar motor to the tune of $1300+ installed, out of warranty so out of pocket. So far Nissan feels no need to cover this expense and acts like no one else is having this problem.
...
Result;Replaced 5th bar motor to the tune of $1300+ installed, out of warranty so out of pocket. So far Nissan feels no need to cover this expense and acts like no one else is having this problem.
Reason for asking - dealer diagnosed my Z problem as needing to replace 5th bow MOTOR. Extended warranty agreement says top motors are covered - that's why I bought it. Nissan says the bad part (97100 or 97050) is not a motor and not covered and $1400-$2100 with labor.
#67
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Does anybody have a part number for the famous "5th Bow" issue?
Reason for asking - dealer diagnosed my Z problem as needing to replace 5th bow MOTOR. Extended warranty agreement says top motors are covered - that's why I bought it. Nissan says the bad part (97100 or 97050) is not a motor and not covered and $1400-$2100 with labor.
Reason for asking - dealer diagnosed my Z problem as needing to replace 5th bow MOTOR. Extended warranty agreement says top motors are covered - that's why I bought it. Nissan says the bad part (97100 or 97050) is not a motor and not covered and $1400-$2100 with labor.
About once a year I need to take the motor out and clean it, but the new brushes are still holding up. The original brushes wore out quickly.
#68
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Blooster it seems (from looking at the Courtesy Nissan on line parts catalog) that they are suggesting replacing the complete 5th bow assembly, which includes the motor. Since it is a top motor that is causing the failure, it needs to be covered. The fact that Nissan only supplies the motor with some other hardware attached, isn’t relevant to the language in the extended warranty.
#69
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They pulled that **** with me too. I eventually gave up and ended up replacing the motor brushes myself for about $20 bucks. I also made a mental note to never buy another extended warranty.
About once a year I need to take the motor out and clean it, but the new brushes are still holding up. The original brushes wore out quickly.
About once a year I need to take the motor out and clean it, but the new brushes are still holding up. The original brushes wore out quickly.
Blooster it seems (from looking at the Courtesy Nissan on line parts catalog) that they are suggesting replacing the complete 5th bow assembly, which includes the motor. Since it is a top motor that is causing the failure, it needs to be covered. The fact that Nissan only supplies the motor with some other hardware attached, isn’t relevant to the language in the extended warranty.
#70
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Just wanted to update THIS thread, to help future searchers, to say that my dealer paid about 2/3 of the cost to repair the 5th bow issue.
I contacted NNA and they said it was NOT covered but that extended warranty coverage was up to the dealer. Fortunately, my itemized list of covered components helped convince the dealer that it should be covered. More info about the warranty is in another thread: https://my350z.com/forum/350z-roadst...roadsters.html
BIG thanks to all you forum people who educated me by sharing your experiences!!!
I contacted NNA and they said it was NOT covered but that extended warranty coverage was up to the dealer. Fortunately, my itemized list of covered components helped convince the dealer that it should be covered. More info about the warranty is in another thread: https://my350z.com/forum/350z-roadst...roadsters.html
BIG thanks to all you forum people who educated me by sharing your experiences!!!
#72
5th Bow Motor Mayhem!
They pulled that **** with me too. I eventually gave up and ended up replacing the motor brushes myself for about $20 bucks. I also made a mental note to never buy another extended warranty.
About once a year I need to take the motor out and clean it, but the new brushes are still holding up. The original brushes wore out quickly.
About once a year I need to take the motor out and clean it, but the new brushes are still holding up. The original brushes wore out quickly.
Thanks
#73
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https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance-and-repair/361241-how-to-repair-stuck-broken-window-motor.html
The 5th bow motor looks exactly the same.
And to access it, just pull up on the black plastic cover over the motor. See this graphic to get a better idea:
http://img151.imageshack.us/my.php?i...z5thbowkp1.jpg
I just prop up the black plastic cover with a short screw driver and then unbolt the motor. I think there are 3 screws and 3 bolts. This can be done from inside the car without removing the top. I'll get some pix next time I do it.
Last edited by domrvt; 03-17-2011 at 10:30 AM.
#74
Unfortunately I didn't take any. But check out this thread about cleaning the window motor:
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=361241
The 5th bow motor looks exactly the same.
And to access it, just pull up on the black plastic cover over the motor. See this graphic to get a better idea:
http://img151.imageshack.us/my.php?i...z5thbowkp1.jpg
I just prop up the black plastic cover with a short screw driver and then unbolt the motor. I think there are 3 screws and 3 bolts. This can be done from inside the car without removing the top. I'll get some pix next time I do it.
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=361241
The 5th bow motor looks exactly the same.
And to access it, just pull up on the black plastic cover over the motor. See this graphic to get a better idea:
http://img151.imageshack.us/my.php?i...z5thbowkp1.jpg
I just prop up the black plastic cover with a short screw driver and then unbolt the motor. I think there are 3 screws and 3 bolts. This can be done from inside the car without removing the top. I'll get some pix next time I do it.
Last edited by bluebadge; 03-17-2011 at 11:08 AM. Reason: Link is working now!
#75
Dang, doing this from the inside of the car is a nightmare, I thought I'd give it a try last night, but you have to be a dwarve to get in there and do it! i'm 6ft, it's a nightmare, also can't access the bolts from the inside as the plastic is in the way, tried propping open but the angle is prohibitive for a screwdriver, will give it another shot tomorrow, and if I figure it out will post pics. fingers crossed. I really don't want to get taken for $1300 by the dealer! If anyone has detailed photos, would love to see how you acheived it.
Also it does look identical to the power window motor unit, with the exception of the regulator. Kinda odd that they want to charge an arm and a leg for this unit when the window motors can be picked up for around a hundy.
Also it does look identical to the power window motor unit, with the exception of the regulator. Kinda odd that they want to charge an arm and a leg for this unit when the window motors can be picked up for around a hundy.
#76
Ok, so I guess this is the offending article, only wish there was a way to get at the three screws holding the Silver motor housing, can't see how to detach the plastic cover it seems secured pretty well at the back. I am assuming that this motor and regulator assembly is solely responsible for retracting the roof?
pic of 5th bow motor assembly
pic of 5th bow motor assembly
#77
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Yeah that's the 5th bow motor and is responsible for moving that section of the roof up and down.
Remove those three vertical screws/bolts in view, and two more that are countersunk in the black case and the motor/gear assembly can be removed. I use a small ratchet with a 1/4" hex on it, holding a philips head screw driver bit since there's not much clearance to get a screw driver in there. I replaced everything with socket head cap screws so it's easier to remove in the future.
Once the assembly is out of the car, you can remove the three small screws holding the case over the motor and get to the brushes.
Remove those three vertical screws/bolts in view, and two more that are countersunk in the black case and the motor/gear assembly can be removed. I use a small ratchet with a 1/4" hex on it, holding a philips head screw driver bit since there's not much clearance to get a screw driver in there. I replaced everything with socket head cap screws so it's easier to remove in the future.
Once the assembly is out of the car, you can remove the three small screws holding the case over the motor and get to the brushes.
#78
Kids don't try this at home!
Yeah that's the 5th bow motor and is responsible for moving that section of the roof up and down.
Remove those three vertical screws/bolts in view, and two more that are countersunk in the black case and the motor/gear assembly can be removed. I use a small ratchet with a 1/4" hex on it, holding a philips head screw driver bit since there's not much clearance to get a screw driver in there. I replaced everything with socket head cap screws so it's easier to remove in the future.
Once the assembly is out of the car, you can remove the three small screws holding the case over the motor and get to the brushes.
Remove those three vertical screws/bolts in view, and two more that are countersunk in the black case and the motor/gear assembly can be removed. I use a small ratchet with a 1/4" hex on it, holding a philips head screw driver bit since there's not much clearance to get a screw driver in there. I replaced everything with socket head cap screws so it's easier to remove in the future.
Once the assembly is out of the car, you can remove the three small screws holding the case over the motor and get to the brushes.
So I would love to know how anyone would be able to remove the unit, since the cable runners are riveted to the unit. Please do explain how you managed this.
Thanks
#79
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Just because you can't do it doesn't mean it can't be done. Be sure all 5 bolts are removed. I went and took mine out to show you. You can see the bottom view, that gear is meshed with a gear in those rails. Let me know if you need more pics before I put it back again.
Ok, so today was the day, not too hot, not too cold, I set the camera up and started to film the process.... I managed to remove all the mentioned screws, the three in view in the pic and the one that was countersunk into the black plastic housing (2nd hole back)... This did in fact free the 5th bow motor assembly to move a little (talking an inch up and down folks!) and that was it, there is no way on this planet that that unit was going to come out, and the reason... the two sets of brass colored tubes that house the cables are riveted to the black plastic housing!
So I would love to know how anyone would be able to remove the unit, since the cable runners are riveted to the unit. Please do explain how you managed this.
Thanks
So I would love to know how anyone would be able to remove the unit, since the cable runners are riveted to the unit. Please do explain how you managed this.
Thanks
#80
Dude! didn't mean to come off any which way, sorry if it sounded that way. I really appreciate you removing yours to show me... For some reason I think I might have missed that 5th screw. Not sure how I could, I will go back and give it a shot right now. It's dark, hot and miserably humid out but what the heck.
One thing I did struggle with aside from the main issue was I could not for the life of me detach the electrical. I managed to snap and break the White protector that holds the wires in (ouch!) but still couldn't feel if there was a tab or something I needed to depress to release it from the motor.. or do I just need to attack it and yank it with a pair of pliers?
Domrvt, thank you for your help, If I can get this thing out it will eventually make for a good tutorial (if it works!)
Ok, that was it, managed to get it out, appears that one of the brushes has pretty much disintegrated! there appears to be some gooey substance on top of electrical contacts, ive remove it, but cant see how to de-solder the contacts... do you just melt through the plastic with a soldering iron? I have spare brushes that were for a window motor that might work.
Last edited by bluebadge; 05-09-2011 at 06:07 PM. Reason: extra info