Valentine V1 intall pics/hardware
 

Ok, so this addresses the "stealth" install of the Valentine V1 over the passenger shoulder through the existing headliner hole.

The primary problem I had with this was using the plastic headliner clip through the V1 visor clip worked for about a day, then I was left with no way to secure the mount. The problem is that the hardware you use to mount the clip to the headliner must be strong enough, narrow enough to make the hole clearing, wide enough to FILL that clearing, and the head of the hardware must be wide enough to hold the clip AND low profile enough to allow the V1 to slide in.
I bought a lot of hardware and tried many things. Here is the end all solution, even if you have yours mounted and it tends to wobble or comes loose...

You gotta get a package of HOLLOW WALL ANCHORS from HOME DEPOT. ($2.00)
Specfically, Crown Bolt brand hollow wall medium duty (#6-32 x 1") found on the nuts/screws isle. (See 1st pic)

This anchor will expand and collapse around the inside of the hole FAR BETTER than the OEM clip. In fact you can hit the clip with a hammer and it will break before you knock it down.

***You must cut the 1/8" "nub" off the end of the anchor before attempting to mount, otherwise the torque screw will hit the top of the roof and you won't get it flush.
You can insert this anchor through a 1/4" hole centered through the visor clip and torque into the headliner clip hole until the clip is secured. Then remove the center screw from the anchor.

We just performed this on Longhorn44 and Idwin's cars last weekend. This method is tried and true!

See the results!

As for a clean install, this does make the detector low profile, but there are some inherent problems with any detector install. Namely, the silhouette, which is HIGHLY visible from the rear in day light.

Regardless of how clean an install is, you will have a shadow with the tell-tale wire/cord which indicates radar detector. Which always attracts unwanted attention from cops and tail-gaters.

What I did was relocate the input cord with the supplied short cord and an RJ-11 coupler from Radio Shack. This helps minimize the foot print of the power cord.

To black out the install completely I tried to conceal the unit behind a black plastic cover mounted from the deck lid.

I took a PC drive cover and cut it down to what I thought works and used double sided foam tape and 2 small L brackets. Even when the police shine that bright ass spot light into your car, you CAN NOT tell its a radar detector.

The shape of the V1 allows the controls to be accessed even with the cover on top of it.

My next problem was mounting the concealed display. I REALLY wanted to mount the display inside the middle gauge pod housing and remove my voltage guage and relocate the oil pressure guage to the 3rd pod. I wanted the V1 as close to the digital speedo as possible. HOWEVER, I determined this may prove to be too difficult for the payoffs.

In lieu of this option, I decided to mount the display above my mirror. The benefits of which are the wiring is super easy, and if you ARE pulled over and the cop over looks the V1 in the rear, he does not see a clamoring display anywhere unless he actually gets into the car. This mount is at such an angle that the cars to the rear can not make out any lights since it is tucked in behind the over head map lights. You actually have to be in the seats to make it out.

I used another small L bracket (Which I bent to form a sharper angle) and a screw/nut through the left side hole on the mouting slider in the rear of the display. I used the supplied double sided tape to mount to the windshield.
Note the display does not rely on the mirror at all for stability.

This is what you end up with.

A visible concealed display for the driver, and a functional, secure, and stealth detector mount that is almost impossible to identify from outside the car.

The only other suggestion I would give for hardwiring is to use the passenger side kick panel for the junction. Tap into the power wire on the passenger side power outlet behind the bottom of the dash and use the ground screw inside the kick panel located at the edge of the carpet.

Well done! :thumbup:

Thanks dude.. I wanted everyone to be able to go to Home Depot with a shopping list to do it right the first time, instead of trying different crap.

brad you need a better camera!

Nicely done!

he just need better light source.

Not a bad idea. But you do know that rear view mirror is going to reflect signals. So now you have no clue which way it is coming from correctly.

I thought this would be a problem, but Ive passed through a lot of radar zones and it has not failed yet.
I also hit a POP radar yesterday while on the Ozak fun run with the AR Z car club and it picked up the signal over a hill before I saw the cop and in the proper direction coming into and out of his zone.

It was pretty awesome to pull into Harrison and "see" the cops before they saw us. The arrows are the S H I T.

Nice install. I used the same wall hangars when I installed mine in the same location. The next thing you need to do is put the remote display in the mirror. :icon44: Very clean install.

https://my350z.com/forum/exterior-and-interior/164057-blue-valentine-one-display-and-homelink-mirror-retrofit.html

My next step is to remove the volt meter and install the concealed display in the 3rd gauge pod. I want it as close to the digital speedo as possible.

Nice work, this is exactly what i was looking for.

I have the same install EXCEPT I have put the remote display on top of the steering column, just in front of the tach. It does block the shift light but I have a Defi VSD X providing that function. The display is in your 'line of sight' and easier to read than up on the mirror (I tried it there for a while and did not like it).

I agree with you on the rear view mirror NOT being a problem. I have yet to get a 'false direction' signal after 4 years of use.

By the way, can you remove just one of the gauges in the center console without messing up the other two? I thought they were all integrated on one PCB.

I use the digital tachometer for my speed, I rarely look at the analog one, and the distance between digital tach and display is shorter up near the mirror for me.

I have looked at the rear panel on my 06 gauges and there are separate connections for the computer and oil pressure/volt meter. I don't think a complete circuit is required for them all to work.

In fact, I had planned to remove the volt meter to make way for the PLX Devices OLED gauges I bought. I'm glad I didn't do that now that I have seen this:
http://www.plxdevices.com/NewsLetter...newsletter.htm

Hmm, not a bad idea.

I hate resurrecting a really old thread... but, what happens if you want to remove the anchor?