cnp112

Actually I will be using edead...but same concept...how important is it to place dynamat/edead/etc in the doors...

i only ask because alot of the pics I see posted for install instructions of the front speakers do not show any sound deadening within the doors...

also...do i need to apply it to the entire door...i have enough material for the both doors and trunk...just more curious if it is necessary...thanks...

Mcutali

iTrader: (10)

how loud is the road noise? how loud is your exhaust? many variables to take in, i put a sub in the rear, have test pipes and headers its real loud, and i used dynamat extreme around behind the the door speakers and the tin metal looking panel on each door thats held on with bolts. i didnt obstruct any bolts or anything. the entire trunk bottom and side walls is dynamatted and in some areas edead over top, with 3m sprayed down carpet padding over top of that. now we can have convos in the car.. i also did the entire wells behind both seats. stopped there due to weight i didnt want to gain more than 25-30lbs. edead though in comparison to dynamat is junk. heads up. same with fatmat

cnp112

thanks for the info...why should I avoid covering up the nuts/bolts when applying the edead...is it just for future maintenance purposes?

also...i should absolutely cover the holes in the doors with edead at least...right?...this will help with the midbass...correct?...thanks

also...if any others could share their opinions on the matter of sound deadening as well...it will be appreciated...thanks...

bmccann101

iTrader: (16)

this is probably the BIGGEST myth out there.

No need to seal panels or cover holes at all.
Its purely and completely in your head. its not a woofer, in fact sealing up mids is a bad thing. But if you sealed the whole door its bing enuff it wouldnt mater, but no, you dont need or want to seal it or your windows are going to get foggy when theyre rolled down after rain.

muffler noise? road noise? nope nope.
It does zero for that either. Thats low freuency stuff, dynamat does NOTHING for it. Its not the intended purpose.

it does one thing and one thing ONLY.. makes panels heavier. Literally. By doing so, it changes the frequency at which a panel will vibrate and the energy necc to do such.

Is it necc? Sure. If you have kick butt speakers like my Boston Pro 60s.
Do a small piece inside the door behind the speaker ( they even sell specific panels for that) and one sheet over the inner door skin.. done.

I PROMISE YOU THIS IS 100 percent accurate. Hope this saves you major time, money and added weight.

cnp112

this is really good info...it makes sense that the panels would be heavier and the energy required to make them vibrate would need to be greater...but wouldnt this still help with road noise...even though road noise is low frequency...not all of it would be low frequency...it wouldnt be high frequency either but somewhere in the middle...right...

i am still a little confused about NOT covering up the holes...i would imagine that by covering up the holes the lower frequency (maybe less than 100 Hz) might be a little more pronouced...i understand the windows might get foggy but is the statement above incorrect...

thanks...

Spike100

If you install quality speakers in the stock door mount or even a door pod, you must also install sound deadening. But, you only need enough sound deadening to prevent door panel vibration. You do not need to deaden the entire door (although that isn’t a bad solution since it won’t hurt anything and will reduce road noise).

Currently I have Focal 165 V Slim speakers in the door. Initially I just used the stock door speaker mount, and the result was terrible. I had an awful amount of vibration. I then installed sound deadening around the speaker (but not the entire door) and the result was a huge improvement. Installing door pods and sound deadening is a better solution (and again, no need to deaden the entire door).

Hope this is helpful,

--Spike

BoomerZ33

iTrader: (23)

good advice from everyone so far. i use to hate hearing cars with huge subs in the trunk without dynamat or whatever and you ended up hearing more rattle than thump

Z33 FTW

iTrader: (1)

Its definitely a good investment to get some kind of material. I would agree though not to cover the holes as if you were ever to do maintainence it would be a hassle. The deadening materials is primarily to prevent metal to resonate with the frequency at which subwoofers and other speakers resonate. Just apply the material to the major places you feel that it might rattle other than that no need to apply too much material as it weighs a ton.

cnp112

Thanks for the info...this is essentially what I was looking for...I really just need to apply sound deadening around the speaker so that we can attempt to stop the vibrations at the source...I am assuming sound deadening will have the most impact around the speaker because this is where the metal is vibrating the most...

350zion

iTrader: (58)

Some years back I had a car can't remember which one. Think it was an audi and I had this trim package that came with upgraded speakers n I remember taking them out and seeing some sound deadening material behind the speaker inside the door.. This makes sense, as I think the rest of the door would be unnecessary weight !

Dominyon

I am doing a setup myself real soon and plan to use some dampening materials, I just want to get every detail down to the letter taken care of to make it go smoothly.

When you say inside the door behind the speaker do you mean on the actual metal surface where the speaker spacer/bracket is mounted? Or do you mean literally behind the speaker (so you gotta put it in the little hole before mounting the speaker?) Retarded question I know but I get lost in exact wording sometimes

And when you say over the inner door skin you mean on the inside of the plastic door panel (where speaker would meet door panel) correct?

One last question. I am putting a sealed sub box in the stock location, would you recommend deadening just the entire stock Blose sub location or behind the passenger side as well? I saw some1 made their own box and put deadening on the box itself, good or bad idea?

Thanks for entertaining my retartedness!

dkmesa350z

iTrader: (41)

E-Dead made a huge difference on my doors. Midbass response and sound resonance were much improved for me. Do it!

cnp112

did you do the entire doors or just the immediate area around the speaker...

orgasm_donor

iTrader: (4)

I think it is important to use a high quality sound deadener as well (which has not been touched on here). Anything that is tar-based is a poor quality product as far as I am concerned. Tar-based products are: A) Smelly - especially in the summertime, B) Have inferior adhesion properties which makes application more time-consuming and you may have to deal with spearation down the road, and C) are not very well protected against extreme temperature variances. I also find that the dampening properties of Tar-based materials aren't as thick and don't have quite as much mass as the good stuff.

This brings me to Poly-butyl based products like Dynamat Extreme, Hushmat or Streetwires mat. There are others as well but I have worked with these three with great success. Poly-butyl is super easy to apply, never comes off, ever! And is resistant to all sorts of weather extremes. It costs more but is well worth it!

Now, on to a little more extreme use of sound deadening in my own 350Z. I used 108 square feet of Hushmat in my ride. YES, it did reduce road noise and exhaust noise quite effectively! Panle vibration was my main concern though.

2 layers on the outside panel, one layer on the inside panel.




The ceiling got two layers and it made a MASSIVE difference in road noise


The trunk and trunk lid got 2-3 layers. This made a really nice difference in reducing exhaust noise

prnstr40

I just put 50 sq feet of "B-Quite" (Dynamat Clone) and it was well worth it, granted it is added weight. The difference , in my opinion, is night and day. It gives the car a new dynamic. The car feels tighter and smoother. Not to mention it also served its intended purpose and made the system a but more efficient.

Just a FYI though: 50 square feet was only enough to do both doors, back side of some miscellaneous panels, and the inside area where the glove box/rear speakers/cubbies are located. I could easily see myself putting 150 sq ft of this stuff in after all said and done.

2fasst

iTrader: (6)

So roughly how much weight did you add to your car? I did a few boxes for Dynamatt Extreme myself and that stuff is HEAVY!!!

Mcutali

iTrader: (10)

funny i used a bulk pack of dynamat extreme, then 3m spray glued carpet foam on top of it very thin layer in the tire well and trunk, i dynamated the rear strut tower brace entire trunk and into the wells behind the seats as well as the entire hump that holds the rear speakers.i made sure to cover much of the rear tubs as possible since its rwd and alot of road noise comes from there. i can now have a conversation with my passenger, long as the stereo is muted.

orgasm_donor

iTrader: (4)

It was about 70 lbs.