A few system install questions
I plan on re-wiring my system this 4th of July, and being that I am new to the car audio wiring thing, I have some questions.
I chose an amp for my FI Q10 The Sundown SAE-1000D per FI's recommendation. http://www.sundownaudio.com/1000d.html And for the box, I ordered the Zenclosures single 10 for now (I do plan on getting a custom box, I plan on using this one as a base for a custom box) Now the questions. I know I need distro blocks, grounding blocks, fuses, etc, etc. As I have chosen to go with 0AWG wire. What size fuse do I need to go with? I already have a boston amp (GT-22) plus running the Sundown amp? Would it be smart to go with a fused distro block or run fuses between the block and the amps. I already have my boston amp installed (did my self) and I plan on using the existing wire for this next install, so that would help me allot as far as cost of things. Can I use a distro block as a grounding block? I know capacitors are hated and loved. SGP has a high power alternator, but I am waiting to find out if it works with an 08, so I have decided to go with an cap. I believe I will keep the cap installed even after an alternator upgrade, but where should I have that wired in relation to everything? I have searched around and can't seem to find anything on wiring up multiple amps to one remote wire. How would I go about doing this? do I need a relay? if so what kind and where?. Last question. Any recommendations as to where to re-run my wires? I ran my power wire down the passenger side kick panel into the cubby behind the driver's seat, and the speaker wire, and RCAs down the center. Does anyone have a better idea then that? I was thinking about running the speaker wires down the drivers side door, any input on that? Well thats it for now. I'm pretty sure I'll have more questions as answers start flowing in. I do plan on taking pics for everyone to see what I have done. Thank you everyone. |
Put the cap as close to the sub amp as possible. As far a distribution blocks, I usually use the cap as ditribution instead. Just run the 0 guage power and ground to the cap, and then run the power cables from the cap to the amps. Run the ground wires from the amps to the same location as the cap is grounded, keeping them as short as possible.
I never run wires down the center console, but it is personal preference. On the Z cars I always run the power down the passenger side and the signal wires down the drivers side. Again, this doesn't really matter. For the remote wire, just run the wire to one of the amps, then run another wire out from the remote input of the first amp over to the second amp. You will not need a relay unless you are triggering at least 4 or 5 amps. |
First and for most, you made a post a while back debating whether or not you wanted door pods or kick panels. You never did reply on your decision so I am still waiting. I have a mind like an elephant my friend. Also, what part of Chicago are you from. I grew up in Naperville and currently live in Lake Geneva, WI (Chicago’s get away town). Either way when I get back home I have a killer audio install to perform, I mean the whole nine yards. Removing all the interior panels, installing sound deadener, door pods, disto blocks, caps, two amps, ****ing everything. Maybe you have better insight then I do and can lend a hand! Peace man. :cool:
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Originally Posted by CLASSIFIED
First and for most, you made a post a while back debating whether or not you wanted door pods or kick panels. You never did reply on your decision so I am still waiting. I have a mind like an elephant my friend. Also, what part of Chicago are you from. I grew up in Naperville and currently live in Lake Geneva, WI (Chicago’s get away town). Either way when I get back home I have a killer audio install to perform, I mean the whole nine yards. Removing all the interior panels, installing sound deadener, door pods, disto blocks, caps, two amps, ****ing everything. Maybe you have better insight then I do and can lend a hand! Peace man. :cool:
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Anyone know of a good place to get 4 conductor speaker wire?
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caps are useless.. and i have one in my car.. its only good for the bling factor.. that being said i should disconnect mine
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Originally Posted by doug
caps are useless.. and i have one in my car.. its only good for the bling factor.. that being said i should disconnect mine
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Originally Posted by Chi-TownWarrior
Even while running 2 amps on a stock alt?
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My FI Q10 is finally on it's way (ordered on the 5th). I decided to cancel the order for my cap due to more people confirming that they do not work. How bad can things get for my alt?
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you can run about 1500 real watts off factory electrical if you are upgrading all wire off factory alt to 1/0 awg
using 1/0 awg power and ground if you doing 1500 to 2500 watts same as above but add 1 each hatch drycell NOT A CAP more than 2500 watts same as above but add HO alt |
I saw in the DIY about running power wire, and in there he ran 2 4AWG. How did he attach the other cable?, or would it be better to just use the 0AWG?
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Originally Posted by Chi-TownWarrior
Even while running 2 amps on a stock alt?
I ran 5 amps (2000 watts) on a stock battery and alternator with no cap or extra battery. |
The idea behind a cap is that it stores energy and can deliver that energy quicker than a battery/ alternator in the event a high current demand situation exists.... i.e. heavy bass notes. But anything that lasts more than a millisecond or so has drained the capacitor and then it becomes a drain on the system.
That's the idea anyway... ;) |
Originally Posted by Chi-TownWarrior
I saw in the DIY about running power wire, and in there he ran 2 4AWG. How did he attach the other cable?, or would it be better to just use the 0AWG?
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In an ideal world, you should probably change your alternator first. This is not an ideal world though so this is what I suggest. Stick a Kinetik HC1400 under the hood. Do the "Big 3" in 0 gauge but the wire going from the alternator to the battery should be done in 4 gauge (this is Ohio Gen's recommendation). A capacitor is not needed or suggested. From there you can go ahead and install your system. If you still have dimming and would like to get rid of it, I'd get a HO alternator and add another Kinetik somewhere but I think you should be fine.
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Well got some more items in the mail over the week. sorry for the photos I keep forgetting my camera so the phone will have to do.
http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/486/img0022gr4.jpg http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/7613/img0023lh0.jpg http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/4802/img0024rr9.jpg now do I just attach wires to the terminals and screw the sub down to the box or is there more then just that? Thanks again |
I hope you got a dual 2 ohm Q10, if so wire it up in parallel. The wiring should look like this:
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/...4-ohm_mono.jpg |
Originally Posted by B5I8
I hope you got a dual 2 ohm Q10, if so wire it up in parallel. The wiring should look like this:
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/ca/...4-ohm_mono.jpg |
Wire it up and screw it down. That's about it. You don't need any polyfill as that box is plenty big enough.
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thank you sir
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