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Looking good. I would have counter sunk the sub so with the grill on it would be flush with the false floor. That way you could slide items you want to carry in the back right over it with no worries. Such a design would require a flat grill like THIS. The surround on the sub appears to sit pretty high so you would need a decent drop to get it level with the final floor height.
That is a good point but I don't have the depth to work with. The sub mounting depth is 6 1/2" and I kept the sound deadening material underneath. I could go with a sub that doesn't need that depth and / or cut away the sound deadening material though...
I don't usually carry much back there but if it turns out to be a problem, will probably go with a different driver.
Wow this is an amazing install and should sound beautiful once its done. I love how you're taking your time with everything!
1 thing that bothers me is, your rear view is aimed wayyy too high. Bring it down a couple degrees or the sun will blind it at certain times and you wont be able to use it properly.
Also, your dash kit looks great. Sure its a bit off, but its near impossible to match. At least it fits great.
Wow this is an amazing install and should sound beautiful once its done. I love how you're taking your time with everything!
1 thing that bothers me is, your rear view is aimed wayyy too high. Bring it down a couple degrees or the sun will blind it at certain times and you wont be able to use it properly.
Also, your dash kit looks great. Sure its a bit off, but its near impossible to match. At least it fits great.
Thanks. I'll fashion a shim of some sort so the camera points down more.
Decided to add a piece of 3/4" MDF around the sub driver to protect the surround, and then install this metal bar type grill. Gluing the carpet down didn't come out all that great but it works. This should prevent anything I've put back there from sliding into and damaging the driver. The top of the raised MDF is same height as the surround.
Also decided to limit the black carpeting to the area of the fake floor. Before I had it so a flap of sorts covered the lid of the jack storage area.
Technically, it's possible that something could slide into the surround before running into that first grille bar, but anything that small will go in the back seat.
IF, it gets damage, well, I've had it a very long time and will just replace it with something I can mount from underneath and use a two piece, fine mesh grille.
Installed the remote for the sub-woofer channel that is built into the amp.
The metal housing of the remote would not fit under the unused switch face plate so I removed the housing. Made the hole for the **** shaft a little bigger and used the same nut to fasten it. BUT, managed to put a divot into the console top
After that, I set the crossover points on the amp and then matched them on the head unit.
Next up, get Android Auto working for voice driven navigation. Finding the information came in bits and pieces. I got Android Auto installed and can use voice commands to make phone calls as long as I switch the input to Bluetooth.
There is a Pandora selection on the head unit but it does not work, I think, unless there is a wired connection. Pandora on my phone works great but only through the Bluetooth connection.
For the Google navigation, I learned I need the Kenwood Smartphone Control app and an HDMI connection to the head unit. That means I need an adapter that converts the micro USB connection to HDMI. Just ordered that from Amazon along with a 3 ft HDMI cable.
The combo of the app and the adapter will support replication of the phone display to the head unit and the bluetooth apparently carries the audio... not sure now but am sure I'll figure as I work with it. Same thing with the Pandora.
After that, I set the crossover points on the amp and then matched them on the head unit.
This will have the effect of a steeper slope, thus creating a small drop in frequency response at the crossover point. In some cases this is desirable, but depending on cabin response it could create a hole or gap in the overall sound.
If you have crossover control at the head unit I would use it since you can fine tune from there. Then put the crossover at amp much wider, that affords you a measure a safety without creating a dip. For example head unit crossover @ 100Hz with amp low pass (for sub) set @ 200Hz and high pass (for mids) @ 50Hz.
Nice work on the sub volume control... looks so much better then some random black box screwed under the dash. I love finding little spots like that for controls or lights. Many years ago in my Prelude Si I actually super glued the **** to an Audio Control Epicenter to the stock cigarette lighter (disconnected from 12V of course) for a totally stealth level control.
This will have the effect of a steeper slope, thus creating a small drop in frequency response at the crossover point. In some cases this is desirable, but depending on cabin response it could create a hole or gap in the overall sound.
If you have crossover control at the head unit I would use it since you can fine tune from there. Then put the crossover at amp much wider, that affords you a measure a safety without creating a dip. For example head unit crossover @ 100Hz with amp low pass (for sub) set @ 200Hz and high pass (for mids) @ 50Hz.
Nice work on the sub volume control... looks so much better then some random black box screwed under the dash. I love finding little spots like that for controls or lights. Many years ago in my Prelude Si I actually super glued the **** to an Audio Control Epicenter to the stock cigarette lighter (disconnected from 12V of course) for a totally stealth level control.
Thanks. I'm thinking of using velcro to mount my old iPod shuffle. The cable will go through one of the AC vents to keep it clean.
I saw the gap in the graph on the screen when I did the settings on the HU and was thinking, that doesnt look right. I'll go back and take a second look at the settings on the amp and the HU.
I saw the gap in the graph on the screen when I did the settings on the HU and was thinking, that doesnt look right. I'll go back and take a second look at the settings on the amp and the HU.
That is just a visual representation of what is happening to the signal, its not the results of measurements so you can't use it to judge the final results.
Plus a small gap is actually OK because your dealing with a slope on each side of the crossover point. The crossover point isn't a wall, its more like hill with a smooth curve to it. And since you HEAR both speakers (lows & mids) together the summed audio results should be flat.
This is just one of those things you have to play with and listen to how it sounds. Sometimes a gap is good, other times you need a bit of an overlap. Each vehicle and speaker combo is unique. Just understand that using two crossovers together creates a steeper slope. The head unit is removing some frequencies then the amp crossover is removing some more. This tends to work well on low pass side as it keeps the bass from getting muddy, but it can remove too much upper bass from the midrange and make the sound kind of flat or throw off your sound stage.
12-29-2017, 09:18 AM
