roberto350z

Well. I can see why now I dont do car stereos for a living. However, nizl and I had alot of fun and the project came out somewhat pro... Heres a step by step incase you guys with a weak stomach just need that extra push to go ahead and do that **** yourself..

Lets start with dismantlement. The car come apart easy. The only snafu I hit was the strut tower brace. The two peices of plastic adjacent to the stainless steel "Z" should be removed first and the stainless steel left alone.

Anyway, start with getting rid of ALL the plastic

roberto350z

runners. Check out the cable routing system I assume was for the bose (my car is non bose). Pretty slick for running power!

roberto350z

like I said. It must ALL go! The 2 little storage bins behind the seat come out REALLY easy. Just stick your hand in, lift up and pull out. Done!

roberto350z

this little gadget connects to the fuse box and speaker leads so that you now have a remote for the amp without removing the head unit!

roberto350z

I lifted the front end, removed the plastic fender trim and drilled through the wheel well into the battery compartment

roberto350z

then drill right above the washer tubing, and viola, you are through!

roberto350z

the best way to tap into speaker leads is to expose the wire with strippers, then solder. Run these to the amp.

roberto350z

the soundgate doohicky taped to the inside with the wires connected to the speaker leads. You also have to run down the drivers side to tap into the fuse box. This thing makes amp ON/OFF really smooth. No pops!

InternetABYSS

you guys got serious *****....since the simple fact is you break something....it takes forever to get replacement parts....

i could possibly do this...but i would rather be pissed at some stereo shop than pissed at myself

roberto350z

amp done! I left the amp loose with the wires really long in case I upgrade or move that stuff to under the seat. I just slap the deck on there, and you dont see the amp anymore.

roberto350z

haha IA. Hey, the parts come off reaaaaly easy, just be gentle and it pops off. But wait there MORE...serious subwoofer action next.

First, you gotta trim just a little off the styro-foam up to the point where a screw holds the foam in. This is important for girth and displacement

roberto350z

supplies

MDF wood
liquid nails
sillicone
wood screws
circular saw with a guide
jig saw
*****

anyway apparently, when you butt together, the pimp action lies in using liquid nails for the seal between joints. The the screws..which are there to hold the liquid nails together until it dries.

InternetABYSS

is this the touring model or other....you keeping the factory mids and highs????

roberto350z

cut the pieces to fit in the SPARE TIRE WELL. hmmmm. Dont forget, you need a small hole in the bottom to fit over the spare tire nub.

roberto350z

get the frame together, making sure to use a skil saw for those straight cuts. Jig saw should only be used for the hole.

roberto350z

cut the hole

InternetABYSS

why aren't you putting the sub in the space behind the driver seat????

nizl

Because the sound quality sucks, and the space is WAY too hard to do anything good with.

Wait until you see the pimpness of the box I designed... goddamn it fits like a glove and hits HARD.

Man we've such PIMPS.




<<<<<<<<<< PIMPOPHILE hee hee (insert from internetabyss)

roberto350z

completed! IA..under careful scrutiny, nizl and I decided that the loss in sound quality would be unacceptable. The sub behind you will cause harsh boominess and too many frequencies will reach you before being attenuated. I know, it would be cool and the hole is already there, but sealing that would be too hard. I would have done it with a free air sub, but I loove my W3.

So, that area will get an amp rack and a plexiglass window.

roberto350z

DRUM ROLL my nizls

.
.
.
.
.
..
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.