ABS Problem on track (Video), How to ABS delete?
 

Yesterday at Buttonwillow, my ABS engaged all in a sudden and caused a spun out. Flatted spots all my brand new tires. :dunno:

My ABS system has been causing me trouble and have done that many times. Bunch of my tires are ruined. So this time, I changed out the ABS sensors, cleaned up the ABS rings. Put in some less aggressive brake pads to prevent wheels lockup and hoping this time would be fine.


So during the session, I ran 2mins flat (finally) however in one of laps, ABS light turned on. I could feel my braking distance was much longer than expect. I knew that all the brake bias went toward the rear since the ABS was disabled by itself. I was trying to brake way earlier and tried to finish the session. Then **** happened, brakes suddenly engaged in a TURN!

See Video @8:45

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/T5v7YQoDJgM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>


This was very dangerous for myself and other drivers. I am removing the ABS system. Does anyone know any info about this? Such as components, where to buy, and tread size? Do I also keep my Brake master cylinder?

Below is a link I found for STI and EVO, nothing for 350z yet:
http://www.chasebays.com/product/sub...-subaru-wrxsti

Thanks!
-Pat

I think it's another example of why you should get the hell off the track when the ABS light comes on...

Take off the grey plug that's connected to your abs block under hood. Abs disabled:icon14:

I in the process of deleting ABS, brake booster, and vcs. I am going with a 3 pedal tilton with dual master cylinder and bias bar

Rear brake bias will be increased more than the front if just unpluging ABS causing rear brake locks up before the front. Very undrivable. I tried.

Whats the benefit of deleting the brake booster? More control on the brakes with increased pedal efforts?

What do you think keeping the stock brake booster, master cylinder and just swap out the ABS unit with the brake proportioning valve?

We are looking forward to a full and complete write-up on this...:thumbup:

with MANY PIX

I'm very interested in this too. If mine goes to f$&@ing s%*€ one more time and I destroy the tires I will start cutting and install http://www.wilwood.com/m/Pedals/Peda...Mount%20Pedals twin pedal with 2 brake master system.

put a switch on the sensor's control box?

No problem, keep traveling for work, so i am about a month behind. I have everything ripped out, right now rewiring car

I'm doing my hydro ebrake setup right now. I have abs block re routed so the secondary controls the rears and the primary controls the from brakes. I don't have the very plug removed. Just the wire in my center consol got traction control disconnected for now. I'm gunna need to play around this Saturday at the pad to see what I need to do I guess

Are you sure you had an ABS problem? It sounded like rear axle hop. Are you sure you didn't goof up the downshift because the hop appeared to start when you let the clutch out after the downshift? You can also get rear axle hop with worn diff or sub frame bushings or a cracked sub frame.

BTW... that entry to turn last has a little washboard which can exacerbate rear axle hop in some cars.

my abs goes off every time I drive the car, interested in a solution as well to remove it.

My abs kicks on every so often when taking exits going right. Very disturbing makes you not want to hit the exit hard.

It didnt feel like my rear rear was hopping and all my sub frame and diff bushings are replaced not long ago.

As soon as the ABS light turned on, the car was already having a hard time to stop. However, this ABS problem occurs the most at Buttonwillow, I believe is the uneven surface at the braking zone causing the ABS system problem.

Here are what I found:

Thread size:
M/C to ABS Block line: 12mmx 1
ABS Block to Brakes: 10mmx 1

Wilwood Proportioning valve 260-11179:
1/8 -27 NPT

http://www.wilwood.com/Images/Master...0-11179-lg.jpg

All I need to do is getting the adapters for the fittings and install the valves after removing the ABS unit, right? Am I missing anything? Thanks in advance.

In order to do it correctly you really should do ,dual master cylinders

At that exact corner at Buttonwillow I could induce similar rear end behavior in the my 350Z with a bad downshift. Sometimes that braking zone induced hop even with a good downshift.

Mr. Coffee,

You might have some reasonably good busines if you create a rock-solid/race car quality ABS delete kit.....just saying:thumbup:

Sorry, my lawyer just shat himself when you posted that message.