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DIY: DETAILED wheel stud replacement (front & rear ARP wheel stud friendly)
16 Attachment(s)
I broke yet another wheel stud and instead of paying the dealership $70 to do it, I decided to do it myself this time. I spent $4.04 (for replacement stud) + $1.00 (for 6 washers). This sure beats paying somebody else to do the work and is definitely more gratifying. :)
Hopefully, this DIY helps you guys who need their wheel stud(s) replaced. level of difficulty: 1.5 out of 5 (5 being hardest) approximate install time: 45-90 minutes tools: floor jack and jack stands socket wrench/ratchet 14mm (9/16") and 19mm (3/4") sockets wd-40 or pb blaster or liquid wrench ~6 washers hammer or mallet Replacing the wheel stud: *I did the rear left side. The fronts should involve the same steps, but may or may not require different socket sizes. 1: Jack up the car high enough using the standard jack points (or frame) so you can slide under the car easily. Attachment 415007 2: Remove the wheel, exposing the studs, rotor, brake components, etc. Attachment 415008 3: Locate the two 14mm bolts holding the brake caliper in place and remove them. *Spraying the bolts with wd-40/pb blaster/liquid wrench makes the job much easier, especially if these bolts have not been removed recently. **The bottom bolt cannot be taken off due to limited space behind it, so I used my floor jack to push up the suspension to create more space. Attachment 415009 4: Put the bolts some place where the grease won't collect stuff off the ground. Attachment 415010 5: Rest the brake calipers so that it does not put any strain (put weight on) the brake lines. Take off the brake pads, if you haven't already. Attachment 415011 Attachment 415012 6: Locate the two 19mm bolts holding the brake caliper bracket in place and remove them. *Spraying the bolts with wd-40/pb blaster/liquid wrench makes the job much easier, especially if these bolts have not been removed recently. **I couldn't take off the bolts by hand so I used the floor jack (while making sure the socket is on the bolt completely as to not strip it). Attachment 415013 Attachment 415014 Attachment 415015 7: Put the bolts some place where you won't lose them. Attachment 415016 8: Remove the brake caliper bracket and the rotor and set it aside. They should just slide right out. Attachment 415017 9: Spray wd-40/pb blaster/liquid wrench where the broken stud is and around it. Hammer away at the broken stud. (Optional: thread in an old/useless lug nut a little bit for added length and to prevent the stud from flying somewhere) *Alternatively, you can use a C-clamp or something similar to get the stud out, if you don't feel comfortable hammering. Attachment 415018 10: Take out the broken stud. Attachment 415019 11: Spray the new stud down with wd-40/pb blaster/liquid wrench and put it through the hole where the broken stud was. Place ~6 washers on the stud and tighten the lug nut. Stop tightening when you can feel the head of the stud become flat like the other studs. Attachment 415020 Attachment 415021 12: You're done! It should look like this. Attachment 415022 13: Now put everything back together in the opposite order that you took them out in. [self explanatory] |
ARP wheel studs in the REAR
10 Attachment(s)
I understand that using a press may be preferable, but I don't have that and this is how I did it. You assume the risk if you choose to follow this DIY and I cannot be held accountable for anything that you do.
With that being said, I'm assuming that if you're tackling this task, you know how to get your brake components out of the way, including the rotor. :) Required:
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ARP wheel studs in the FRONT
2 Attachment(s)
I'm assuming that if you're tackling this task, you know how to get your brake components out of the way, including the rotor. :)
Required:
Instructions are similar to the above (rears), but much simpler.
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I could have sworn I read that hammering your hub can mess up the wheel bearing, have you heard this?
did you use the FSM? |
I did hear that, but i highly doubt hammering it will affect it too much. As long as you spray it down with copious amounts of pb blaster (which I used), it doesn't take too much effort hammering it out.
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Just to make it easier, you could have started with step 6. There is no need to remove the slide bolts with grease on them to remove the whole caliper if you are taking off the bracket as well...
Just my :twocents:, thanks for the write up! |
Cool write up.
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Originally Posted by 06blueZ
Just to make it easier, you could have started with step 6. There is no need to remove the slide bolts with grease on them to remove the whole caliper if you are taking off the bracket as well...
Just my :twocents:, thanks for the write up! |
wow another stud.... you should start using a tq wrench, good right up! you still have that headlight?
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Good write up and good pics. Small comment on the 19" bolts.
The method of the jack and the socket is kind of dangerous. That can slip out and go off flying and hurt something, or worse, damage the car. And, I don't think your socket wrench will last long doing that. The proper tool is a breaker bar. I got one in a 1/2" drive and boy it makes easy work of about anything. If you plan to do a lot of suspension work on your car, brakes, etc, I highly recommend picking one up. It will save your time, your knuckles, and your socket wrench. Now, the trick of the breaker bar is on the length of the bar. So another way to make this go is to extend your socket wrench arm with a tube of some kind. Back before I had my breaker bar I used to use the handle of my jack. Just slip the socket handle into it, and go. An extra foot of leverage will do the job nicely. To put the bolt back you should use a torque wrench, and there is another long armed device that can help you take things off. Most people think of the torque wrench to put things on, but it can take the same bolt off easily. Again, the trick is on the length of the leverage. One more option : there is a way to interlock two open end wrenches to make up a longer armed wrench. Under some situations this is a good trick to get a bolt started. Be careful because this can also slip and it can hurt. Nothing beats the right tool. You will save so much time and frustration you will not know how you lived without it before. One 1/2" breaker bar can make any suspension/brake or tranny job a stroll in the park. Oh, and another tip. Along my car travels I picked up a set of sockets of the kind you use for power tools (compressors, air tools). They are black and MUCH harder than regular sockets. They are great for work on suspension and brake jobs, and they won't eat up the bolts (as easily). They are heavy, so I keep a regular set but also have these for those tough jobs. Is a few extra bucks, but I bought them 10+ years ago and have never had to replace one. |
Another tip, put the new studs in the freezer for a couple of hours before installing them, they'll contract and go in easier
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Originally Posted by cubu
wow another stud.... you should start using a tq wrench, good right up! you still have that headlight?
And yes, I still have have the headlight casing. You never showed up to pick it up at any of the places. :( I have to go find it again and you'll have to come to McKinney to get it now. Slaponte, I do have a breaker bar, but it didn't fit with the socket. Go figure. The jack method isn't too bad. I made sure that it wouldn't fly off or strip the bolt by holding it down on the bolt securely with my right hand while jacking it up with my left. Breaker bars that fit would definitely help, too, though. Redlude97, I thought about putting it in the freezer, but that seems like it may hurt it as any material will break more easily when in lower temperatures. I have heard it before, however. |
thanks for the right up. is there a better way rather than pounding the stud out with a hammer? how do the shops do it?
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Originally Posted by ilovegirls
thanks for the right up. is there a better way rather than pounding the stud out with a hammer? how do the shops do it?
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Where did you buy the wheel stud?
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Originally Posted by DMK
Where did you buy the wheel stud?
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Tried doing this with my buddy, that bolt was so hard when i cranked it with my own strength my whole nipple of the ratchet twisted off. now i only have 2. :( things are no joke to get off. wd-40 did not help much. Did not think of the jack though.
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Originally Posted by imonlykidden
Tried doing this with my buddy, that bolt was so hard when i cranked it with my own strength my whole nipple of the ratchet twisted off. now i only have 2. :( things are no joke to get off. wd-40 did not help much. Did not think of the jack though.
Yeah, using the jack (which can put much more force than you can) definitely helps. If you have a long enough breaker bar or a pipe to lengthen, it'll make things a lot easier. |
Thanks for posting this. I just painted my brake calipers, but in the process I had a lugnut cease up on me and eventually broke the damn stud trying to break it free. I'll definitely be using this in the near future to replace it.
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Nice.
Does removing this stud apply to any other stud that is "pressed" on the Z? Because on my rear shock mounts (the 2 bolts that come down from the frame) one bolt is slightly bent. If I pb blast it and start hammering, will it come out? |
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