AadosX

iTrader: (10)

Cool. ^^ But you could have just gotten adjustable toe arms since you don't need the spring bucket and saved the time/trouble. Plus there would be no chance of the bolts slipping (use lockout bolts).

h4mi

I know, the ideal thing would be toe arms instead of the bolts and lockout washers for both the camber arms and the toe arms.

My main problem is that it's a nightmare finding the right stuff where I live (Sweden) or finding someone willing to ship it here. I was lucky I even got my hands on the camber arms+toe bolts package. Had to pay like $350 shipped for it.

I envy you US guys, from reading these forums it seems you can just walk across the street and buy genuine JDM parts and Volk rims from 7-11 or Wal-Mart. Getting even the smallest cheapest parts requires hours of work, weeks of waiting and spending tons of money for me. Most people give up and trade their Z in for a Honda or Subaru up here.

1985zcar

iTrader: (1)

Anyone got a new link? This ones dead now...at least not working for me?

GeauxLadyZ

iTrader: (9)

Just wanted to say that this vid is fuking GREAT! Couldnt have asked for a more comprehensive install video. DEF watch before doing this.

...This should be stickied...

Sablelieger

iTrader: (1)

Great write up; I just bought the toe bolts and this is definitely better than the "must be installed by a professional Legaleese" they put in the box. THanks.

RedBullRR

iTrader: (7)

I could not find a DIY for this mod on a 370Z, and went ahead and started the install. I put the rear camber arms in with no problems. However when installing the Toe Bolt and enlarging the hole I made the hole larger for the toe bolt that goes were the camber arm goes and not the spring bucket.

My questions... Obv I have to remove those bolts now and place the stock ones back on. Did I **** up my cars toe by making those holes bigger?

manual g

iTrader: (5)

If the washers are still held in place by the sub frame then you should be fine.

manual g

iTrader: (5)

The OP filed the holes at the insides. The SPC video shows the hole being filed equally on both sides.

Does the OP's method allow more toe out?

Any info would be great..thanks.

annihilator3001

I am doing a install on a g35, and i am wondering the same thing, why only the inboard cut?

VORTECH350

^^^ can anyone answer that question?

ian99rt

iTrader: (12)

The way the suspension reacts to lowering you only need to have additional toe out.

Moving the toe arm's pivot point inward creates more toe out, thus cutting only the inward side.

Dubs13

FML... I wish I had read this before going for an alignment. They spent 3 hours trying to get the toe into spec and only ended up stripping the washers. Guess I know why now...

jujubii

sorry to bring this thread back up from the dead but i got some really good information from it but have some questions as well. i'm actually from the g37 forums and they dont have much talk on this subject.

1. as for the aftermarket spc or spl rear toe bolts (and rear camber arms), how do would they fit with the gtspec rear tie brace and the mbrace? i currently have the 2 braces and might be looking into getting the toe bolts and camber arms but will i have to toss the braces for this set up? just quoting punish_her's post as no one really responded

2. also, whats the different between the toe bolts (that require this elongation process) and the spl lockout kit? does the lockout kit just prevent 'slip' for the stock bolt? if i do decide to go with the enlongated toe bolts will i have to worry about the slippage common in eccentric bolts?

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

guys, hands down i recommend everyone elongate both sides - I have been lazy and have not updated this on this thread, but i recommend elongating both sides and this is why:

The subframe is aluminum and the slot the toe adjust bolt fits into there due to raised sections on each side....well, those raised sections are soft aluminum.

HUMAN ERROR:
you take the z to the local alignment shop, and sit in the waiting area. IF you dont tell the alignment guy "hey, by the way, I only slotted one side" he will be WRENCHING on that toe bolt, over powering the FLAT in the eccentric and DAMAGING the RAISED section of the subframe sides.

dun, dun, dun.....crappy sliptastic alignment...

unless your there doing your own alignment, then you run the risk of an alignment tech, trying to roate the toe bolt 360 degrees and with the slot not being elongated the opposite direction you CAN NOT turn it 360, he has to go all the way back around......

trust me, ive seen it!!!!

-J

jujubii

jasonz-ya, do you have any insight regarding my concern? :- )

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

I have to look up how those braces attach to the 370z...i have seen the 370z and the rear suspension design is very very similiar to the 350z, but i would have to see how they attach to ensure a proper response...

link me pics of the braces or pics of them installed on other cars, etc..pm me for email, etc..

One thing for sure is - in regards to your question 2:

the difference between the spc toe bolts and the spl lock out bolts is that the spc are egg shapped (Eccentric) toe adjust bolts, they are that way to have the alignment shop turn to fine tune your toe setting for alignment.

The SPL lock out bolts - are square washers that eliminate using a spc or factory toe (eccentric) bolt and now you MUST have a toe adjustable arm to adjust toe.....and in order to do that, you must have true style coilovers. so double wham....

2nd part of your question, yes you will have to worry about slippage - see, i have found toe bolts (eccentric bolts) to move...is why in my suspension 101 thread i say to mark a permanent marker line and inspect for movement after having your alignment done when ever you can inspect it. if later your marker lines done line up, well then your toe bolts have moved/slipped.


-J

jujubii

thanks for a timely response!
as far as i know, the rear tie brace & toe bolts (and the rear later brace with the camber arms) are attached the same way. granted the part numbers maybe different because of the vehicle specific application, the idea is the same behind the braces. i dont think there is too much of a difference down there from the z33 to the z34. what's your experience or take on #1?

here's what happened to me: i got both braces, installed them before i got coils. once i got coils and dropped the height mildy, i went to get an alignment (from a pretty reputable shop) i dont have a camber/toe kit yet. the guy said that it camber bolt was nearly impossible to move and pinpointed the reason to the lateral brace. once he loosened the lateral brace my car immediately cambered out, from about -1.5 to -2.0 (its ndb really). so what was happening was that the braces were actually holding the camber together, which shouldve increased when i dropped the car
the exact same thing happened to toe relative to the rear tie! it went from .06 to .20 worse! but barely in spec. he said there's nothing i can do unless i get a camber/toe kit. now, my biggest question is, since the camber/toe kit essentially allows for a wider range of movement, will it be out of range for the braces? i know this is probably a gtspec/spc question but i was wondering if you guys could enlighten me.

thanks!

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

^ ok, i found a pic of the tie brace, it mounts at the toe bolt eccentric bolt location, so for that you would have to ensure u orient the bolt where the nut is on the back side, and the eccentric washer was before the brace, this is all dependant that hte bolt is long enough, which im guessing it is..

so the rear tie brace you can use.

i couldnt find a pic of the mbrace? u have one?

-J

B-Mackin

Just got the toe bolts from rock auto. If I don't do the camber arms and drop the car about 1.5-2 inches, how much camber am I looking at?

dmorrow

okay. ive got some Tanabe GF210 lowering springs coming in. looking at a 1"front/1.2"rear drop. not much.

i have SPC toe bolts as well. I'm on 18" wheels.
am i really looking at doing all this work? I've had plenty people tell me with this drop i should be fine with just an alignment.

i had a guy that had these same springs on, he put the spc toe bolts in and said he didnt have to drill anything.. weird?


but i really kinda iffy about dremel and all even though i know perfectly fine how to operate a dremel and the experience to do it all...id just rather leave what i can.

i guess its just the risk of getting alignment, finding out it cant work without toe bolts....going back to put them on...and paying for another alignment.


opinions?