DIY for stock non-Brembo to stock Brembo brakes
05-01-2010, 11:41 AM
#81
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I'm having issues with the new Stoptech SS line rubbing on the control arm.. especially with the wheel turned. Any suggestions? How is the banjo bolt in relation to the caliper? (these are OEM Brembos.. in need of touch up paint.. long story). This is the passenger side with steering turned almost all the way left.. steering unwound a bit by itself)
I have had this setup for over two years now with no issues with rubbing, I took some pictures through the wheels to show how the hoes guide was attached to the spindle (it is parallel to the angle of the spindles leading edge).
Then photoshoped how my banjo and line are orientated (they are parallel with the the Brembo lable).
Disregard the color, they are stock brembos that have been powdercoated red. Let me know if that helps,
HyperSprite
Last edited by HyperSprite; 05-01-2010 at 11:43 AM.
05-01-2010, 11:50 AM
#82
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Looking at your pictures some more, it looks like you have the banjo right, maybe adjust the hose guide at little. I think the reason the rubbing seems bad is because it is jacked up with the suspension at full extension. This would not really be the case once it is on the ground unless you were fully unloading the front "Dukes of Hazard over the river" style.
HyperSprite
HyperSprite
05-03-2010, 04:06 AM
#83
Looking at your pictures some more, it looks like you have the banjo right, maybe adjust the hose guide at little. I think the reason the rubbing seems bad is because it is jacked up with the suspension at full extension. This would not really be the case once it is on the ground unless you were fully unloading the front "Dukes of Hazard over the river" style.
HyperSprite
HyperSprite
It does touch when the wheel is cranked all the way (even when lowered down to the ground). But, as you say, the lines are coated.. I suppose it's possible after 100s or 1000s of hits that it may wear the coating. It is something that I can keep an eye on.. since I track the car the wheels come off frequently.
In general, there is no touching and there is always some slack in the line. So I am back in my comfort zone..
Thanks again.
01-25-2011, 09:16 AM
#84
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Rear caliper bolt specs!
Same length 35mm
Same Diameter: 12mm
Thread pattern has changed from fine to medium 1.75
The bolt is a grade 6, if you go to ace they have this patter
Tell them you need a 12mm 1.75x35mm grade 5 bolt
I looked everywhere for a grade 6, the dealer had them only. They were $4 a piece, The bolts from ace were just over a doller. The tensile strength from grade 5 to 6 is not enough to worry about. From what I heard, just brakes uses the bolts all the time when doing caliper repairs.
Same Diameter: 12mm
Thread pattern has changed from fine to medium 1.75
The bolt is a grade 6, if you go to ace they have this patter
Tell them you need a 12mm 1.75x35mm grade 5 bolt
I looked everywhere for a grade 6, the dealer had them only. They were $4 a piece, The bolts from ace were just over a doller. The tensile strength from grade 5 to 6 is not enough to worry about. From what I heard, just brakes uses the bolts all the time when doing caliper repairs.
Metric uses 4.4, 8.8 and 10.9, etc....
So everyone is clear, when swapping OEM single piston brakes to OEM brembos you need the oem rear bolts OR you can go out and purchase metric bolts to replace them.
BOLTS NEEDED FOR REAR CALIPER MOUNTING - 4 EACH TOTAL:
Same length 35mm + use old washer when installing
Same Diameter: 12mm
Thread pattern has changed from fine to medium 1.75
STRENGTH 10.9
Flanged hex head:
I highly recommend purchasing Flanged Hex head bolts like this:
Notice how the bolt is 16mm hex head and flanged.
16mm hex bolt clearance when installing:
WHY? well when it comes to installing or removing the rear caliper bolts, having the 16mm hex is easy to use with an extension and breaker bar! the orignal bolt is a big hex, i belive 19mm and a 19mm socket doesnt fit and hits the lower control arm (radius rod) on the bottom caliper bolt. A 16mm socket fits great and clears the radius rod when removing. Just some FYI.
USE OF OLD WASHER:
OK, next, the length of the bolt is 35mm, however, prior to torquing down the bolt ensure that the bolt does NOT come in contact with the rotor.
Use a flash light and ensure there is adequate clearance. IF it is close, use the original washer that was paired with the original non brembo brake caliper bolts you removed. The washer is a typical M12 steel washer and is about 2mm thick giving just the right amount of clearance if needed.
BOLT SHANK:
Also, you want a bolt that has shank under the head then threads for the last section of the bolt, you preferably dont want a full threaded bolt.
For this, paying the 4 bucks each for oem bolts from your local nissan dealership may be worth while unless you can source some bolts with shank.
Bolt with shank in aluminum rear knuckle section instead of threads in the knuckle:
At 35mm length, finding a shanked bolt my be quite hard! your call...
Hope that helps some...
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 01-25-2011 at 09:17 AM.
01-25-2011, 09:24 AM
#85
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SS line spacer use for clearance:
I have found that adding a spacer and using a longer bolt really helps the ss line with bango bolt that is configured 90 degrees from mount location to work well.
Add a spacer like this:
Like shown here:
it really helps the ss line make the 180 degree turn back around the front spindle.
Bolt is M8x1.25 - length dependant of spacer used.
-J
Add a spacer like this:
Like shown here:
it really helps the ss line make the 180 degree turn back around the front spindle.
Bolt is M8x1.25 - length dependant of spacer used.
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 01-25-2011 at 10:12 AM.
04-14-2011, 01:25 PM
#87
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I'm still kind of confused as to what bolts are needed for the rear. So, the bolt needs to be 35mm long, 12mm in diameter, with a thread pattern that is medium that is rated at 10.9 strength, preferably shanked style? Where does one get 4 of these?
Also, just curious, but what SS brake lines are you guys using?
Also, just curious, but what SS brake lines are you guys using?
04-15-2011, 07:16 AM
#88
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I'm still kind of confused as to what bolts are needed for the rear. So, the bolt needs to be 35mm long, 12mm in diameter, with a thread pattern that is medium that is rated at 10.9 strength, preferably shanked style? Where does one get 4 of these?
Also, just curious, but what SS brake lines are you guys using?
Also, just curious, but what SS brake lines are you guys using?
And I'm using stoptech ss lines
04-15-2011, 11:58 AM
#89
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Thanks for the reply.
Are there any particular reasons why you chose the StopTech SS lines? I mean, are there really differences between the different SS lines, like Goodridge, StopTech, Technafit, etc?
Are there any particular reasons why you chose the StopTech SS lines? I mean, are there really differences between the different SS lines, like Goodridge, StopTech, Technafit, etc?
04-15-2011, 02:16 PM
#90
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I would hope that it's kinda hard to mess up making a ss line but I guess it's possible. You should be safe with any major company. I just happened to choose stoptech.
04-15-2011, 02:43 PM
#91
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From looking at the various lines that are being sold around the forums, it looks like the only difference between them is really the mounting blocks (or lack thereof). Some have none, some have the blocks, some have brackets. Correct me if I'm wrong, though.
05-10-2011, 09:35 PM
#92
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Ok, I just did this today. I ran into a small issue, though. I installed Techna-Fit SS lines all around and the lines did not fit well at the calipers.
The banjo bolt that connects to the front Brembo calipers would bottom out (bolt too long), but the brake line would have some play (and leak brake fluid). I ended up having to use one of the stock brass washers from the OEM non-Brembo calipers so the banjo bolt can be tightened to keep the SS line stationary (see attached). I assume what I did should be fine, yes?
The banjo bolt that connects to the front Brembo calipers would bottom out (bolt too long), but the brake line would have some play (and leak brake fluid). I ended up having to use one of the stock brass washers from the OEM non-Brembo calipers so the banjo bolt can be tightened to keep the SS line stationary (see attached). I assume what I did should be fine, yes?
08-08-2011, 08:14 AM
#93
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Ok, I just did this today. I ran into a small issue, though. I installedTechna-Fit SS lines all around and the lines did not fit well at the calipers.
The banjo bolt that connects to the front Brembo calipers would bottom out (bolt too long), but the brake line would have some play (and leak brake fluid). I ended up having to use one of the stock brass washers from the OEM non-Brembo calipers so the banjo bolt can be tightened to keep the SS line stationary (see attached). I assume what I did should be fine, yes?
The banjo bolt that connects to the front Brembo calipers would bottom out (bolt too long), but the brake line would have some play (and leak brake fluid). I ended up having to use one of the stock brass washers from the OEM non-Brembo calipers so the banjo bolt can be tightened to keep the SS line stationary (see attached). I assume what I did should be fine, yes?
08-08-2011, 09:22 AM
#94
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I have not specifically checked for slight/minor leaks or anything, but I have not experienced any problems so far and I've done a 1000 mile cross country trip and a few autox events since then.
10-28-2011, 02:13 PM
#96
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the bolts
the lines that came with the brembos or after market ss lines
the larger rotors that came with the brembos or after market rotors that are for brembos
10-28-2011, 02:25 PM
#97
*all set
Last edited by JaE35z; 10-30-2011 at 01:22 PM. Reason: read thread, found answer
11-08-2011, 04:23 AM
#98
It's been a while since you posted this but hows the fix with the added washer? I ran into the bolt bottom out situation last night ....:-/
Ok, I just did this today. I ran into a small issue, though. I installed Techna-Fit SS lines all around and the lines did not fit well at the calipers.
The banjo bolt that connects to the front Brembo calipers would bottom out (bolt too long), but the brake line would have some play (and leak brake fluid). I ended up having to use one of the stock brass washers from the OEM non-Brembo calipers so the banjo bolt can be tightened to keep the SS line stationary (see attached). I assume what I did should be fine, yes?
The banjo bolt that connects to the front Brembo calipers would bottom out (bolt too long), but the brake line would have some play (and leak brake fluid). I ended up having to use one of the stock brass washers from the OEM non-Brembo calipers so the banjo bolt can be tightened to keep the SS line stationary (see attached). I assume what I did should be fine, yes?
