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DIY - Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement - Translink

Old 04-12-2016, 02:54 AM
  #221  
RobPhoboS
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Can you post a photo, even though it sounds straight forward but you might be worrying about nothing.
If you have the SPL bushings, they are monoball (obv), so will pivot as long as the bushing is pressed in

(having SPL or rubber/nismo is the only thing I'd put here btw, poly - definitely not)
Old 04-12-2016, 05:02 AM
  #222  
Rev_Night
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I have whiteline. And not much to photograph really. Just imagine a bushing going into a lower control arm hole that is at a bit off at an angle
Old 04-12-2016, 05:34 AM
  #223  
RobPhoboS
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Originally Posted by Rev_Night
I have whiteline. And not much to photograph really. Just imagine a bushing going into a lower control arm hole that is at a bit off at an angle
I imagine that's due to the arm having a bit of a notch taken out of the inner part that you posted right ?
If so, maybe it's best to just press it in via the other end, or buy a new arm ?
Old 04-12-2016, 06:19 AM
  #224  
Rev_Night
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lol nah man, the bushing just needs to be centered before its pressed it. I can't do that on a balljoint press. a hail hydra press would be ezpzjapeneesy
Old 04-12-2016, 11:43 AM
  #225  
pfregeolle
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Ideally you want the bushing to be as straight lined up as possible before you press it in, but if you can't get it PERFECT (which I don't think most people do), the bushing will straighten up once it's getting pressed down into the arm.
Old 04-12-2016, 01:30 PM
  #226  
Rev_Night
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oh well, shop did it for me for $15 each, $60 total. im cool with that
Old 04-12-2016, 06:12 PM
  #227  
tyau
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Originally Posted by Rev_Night
It was my understanding that both the whiteline and SPL compression bushings were better then OEM and Nismo.

What exactly is your 'hq OEM replacement' over the SPL?
Hey, sorry for the confusion, I bought a set of Mevotech compression rods as my OEM replacement. They have been holding fine. Mevotech claims that they use a more heavy duty bushing and ball joint on all of their control arms, so I decided to give them a try. On my lowered G35, they have been performing fine for the past couple of years. Best of all, they only cost me $45 a piece, and come with a lifetime warranty.
Old 04-12-2016, 06:14 PM
  #228  
tyau
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Originally Posted by Bak3rme
how the heck did u get your compression rod to even get off the car in first place.
The compression rods are very easy to remove... which part are you stuck in?
Old 04-13-2016, 02:38 AM
  #229  
RobPhoboS
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Originally Posted by tyau
Hey, sorry for the confusion, I bought a set of Mevotech compression rods as my OEM replacement. They have been holding fine. Mevotech claims that they use a more heavy duty bushing and ball joint on all of their control arms, so I decided to give them a try. On my lowered G35, they have been performing fine for the past couple of years. Best of all, they only cost me $45 a piece, and come with a lifetime warranty.
I'm just having a search for those ones now, do you have a specific link ?
Old 04-13-2016, 09:16 AM
  #230  
tyau
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Originally Posted by RobPhoboS
I'm just having a search for those ones now, do you have a specific link ?
Go to www.rockauto.com

They sell the Mevotech compression rods for the G35 and 350Z. I am pleased with the quality of the ball joints and the updated liquid filled bushings. I would consider the bushings on the Mevotech arms as durable and stiff as the Nismo bushings.
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Old 04-14-2017, 05:15 AM
  #231  
trusovici
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used a 27mm impact socket to remove both translink bushings. I then used an old sleeve from the busted bushing to press in the whiteline bushing.


27mm impact socket used to press out old bushing.



busted oem bushing



use old sleeve and file down a chamfer to allow the sleeve to slip over the end of the whiteline bushing. will not harm the new bushing.



old sleeve being used to press in the new bushing
Old 04-14-2017, 05:26 AM
  #232  
JasonZ-YA
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Great work

J
​​​​​​​
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Old 04-15-2017, 03:27 PM
  #233  
trusovici
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thanks Jason. I cant tell you how many times ive read over your DIY, finally pulled the trigger on the Harbor Freight press for $99 and got them done. Added some KYB excel g shocks and the car feels great, gonna tackle the diff bushing soon.
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