DIY - Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement - Translink
01-05-2010, 03:22 PM
#61
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (564)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 19,266
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
I don't think we're understanding each other
You are assuming that the stock bushing is going bad because people are torquing the bolts down with the car in the air. Since you did not specify which bolts, I assumed (incorrectly?) that you mean the bolts for the lower control arm itself. My point is that there is no install that I am aware that would require you remove the inner bolt (control arm to chassis) at all. That is why it makes no sense. Perhaps you can elaborate as to what you mean?
I am not questioning what you know, nor what is in the FSM (I follow it to a T on my car), but I guess I am just missing what you're saying.
Or are you saying that merely by virtue of the fact that the car is suspended in the air, without disconnecting the lower control arm completely, that it's somehow putting too much load on the bushing causing it to wear?
The inner bushing is the one prone towards failing. Many people choose to also do the outer bushing (shock to control arm) at the same time since the arm is coming out anyway. However, there is no condition under which anyone has any reason to touch the inner control arm bolt unless they are removing the control arm itself. The only reason I can think of to remove the arm itself, is to replace the bushing (or the arm if its bent, etc).
You are assuming that the stock bushing is going bad because people are torquing the bolts down with the car in the air. Since you did not specify which bolts, I assumed (incorrectly?) that you mean the bolts for the lower control arm itself. My point is that there is no install that I am aware that would require you remove the inner bolt (control arm to chassis) at all. That is why it makes no sense. Perhaps you can elaborate as to what you mean?
I am not questioning what you know, nor what is in the FSM (I follow it to a T on my car), but I guess I am just missing what you're saying.
Or are you saying that merely by virtue of the fact that the car is suspended in the air, without disconnecting the lower control arm completely, that it's somehow putting too much load on the bushing causing it to wear?
The inner bushing is the one prone towards failing. Many people choose to also do the outer bushing (shock to control arm) at the same time since the arm is coming out anyway. However, there is no condition under which anyone has any reason to touch the inner control arm bolt unless they are removing the control arm itself. The only reason I can think of to remove the arm itself, is to replace the bushing (or the arm if its bent, etc).
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 01-05-2010 at 03:34 PM.
01-05-2010, 04:10 PM
#62
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Bellingham WA.
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I remove the inner bolt to remove strut. The factory bushing doesn't pivot like a bearing, all movement is a factor of torsional deflection. Any preload will shorten life of bushing. If you push way down on the arm to get your strut out after disconnecting the ball joint, you are damaging the bushing.
Urethane bushings actually pivot, but they wear because of this difference. The urethane "bearing" isn't sealed and will get road grime in it, that is why they are prone to squeaks and rattles over time.
I cannot verify how people work on their car, I can only tell you what/why failure happens on rubber bushing when improper work practices are followed. If this is not the cause of the OEM bushing failure, it can/will be a cause of a replacement rubber bushing to prematurely fail.
Urethane bushings actually pivot, but they wear because of this difference. The urethane "bearing" isn't sealed and will get road grime in it, that is why they are prone to squeaks and rattles over time.
I cannot verify how people work on their car, I can only tell you what/why failure happens on rubber bushing when improper work practices are followed. If this is not the cause of the OEM bushing failure, it can/will be a cause of a replacement rubber bushing to prematurely fail.
01-06-2010, 03:46 AM
#63
350Z-holic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (60)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes
on
19 Posts
I remove the inner bolt to remove strut. The factory bushing doesn't pivot like a bearing, all movement is a factor of torsional deflection. Any preload will shorten life of bushing. If you push way down on the arm to get your strut out after disconnecting the ball joint, you are damaging the bushing.
i think its just torsional loads and wear and tear.....between me and a bunch of buddies all cars ive seen have all gone out at about the 68k-90K mileage range.....sure the 68k car may have had bad suspension work practices to aid in a wee bit quicker translink bushing repair.....
good info john.....is that 30 years working on lotus's?? racing them?
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 01-06-2010 at 03:50 AM.
01-06-2010, 04:25 AM
#64
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (564)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 19,266
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
I've never had to push down on the lower control arm to get a strut off the front of a Z, or any coilover (I've used over 20 of them). Once the shock is unbolted from the lower control arm, and the upper mounts are loosened, the shock just slips right off easily without any effort. The rear is where that needs to be done, yet the rear bushings don't seem to go bad with any sort of regularity, and people change them out of want, not need.
The factory service manual does not call for removing or even loosening the inner control arm bolt to remove the strut.
Removal and Installation AES0002W
REMOVAL
1. Remove tire with power tool.
2. Remove undercover with power tool.
3. Remove harness of wheel sensor from shock absorber. Refer to BRC-83, "WHEEL SENSORS" (With
TCS), BRC-143, "WHEEL SENSORS" (With VDC).
CAUTION:
Do not pull on wheel sensor harness.
4. Remove mounting nuts of brake hose from shock absorber.
5. Remove mounting bolt and nut between shock absorber and transverse link with power tool.
6. Remove tower bar. Refer to FSU-20, "TOWER BAR" .
7. Remove mounting nuts on mounting insulator with power tool, then remove shock absorber from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
Refer to FSU-8, "Components" for tightening torque. Install in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE:
Refer to component parts location and do not reuse non-reusable parts.
Perform final tightening of shock absorber lower side (rubber bushing) under unladen condition with tires
on ground. Check wheel alignment. Refer to FSU-21, "SERVICE DATA"
The factory service manual does not call for removing or even loosening the inner control arm bolt to remove the strut.
Removal and Installation AES0002W
REMOVAL
1. Remove tire with power tool.
2. Remove undercover with power tool.
3. Remove harness of wheel sensor from shock absorber. Refer to BRC-83, "WHEEL SENSORS" (With
TCS), BRC-143, "WHEEL SENSORS" (With VDC).
CAUTION:
Do not pull on wheel sensor harness.
4. Remove mounting nuts of brake hose from shock absorber.
5. Remove mounting bolt and nut between shock absorber and transverse link with power tool.
6. Remove tower bar. Refer to FSU-20, "TOWER BAR" .
7. Remove mounting nuts on mounting insulator with power tool, then remove shock absorber from vehicle.
INSTALLATION
Refer to FSU-8, "Components" for tightening torque. Install in the reverse order of removal.
NOTE:
Refer to component parts location and do not reuse non-reusable parts.
Perform final tightening of shock absorber lower side (rubber bushing) under unladen condition with tires
on ground. Check wheel alignment. Refer to FSU-21, "SERVICE DATA"
01-06-2010, 04:44 AM
#65
350Z-holic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (60)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes
on
19 Posts
I've never had to push down on the lower control arm to get a strut off the front of a Z, or any coilover (I've used over 20 of them). Once the shock is unbolted from the lower control arm, and the upper mounts are loosened, the shock just slips right off easily without any effort. The rear is where that needs to be done, yet the rear bushings don't seem to go bad with any sort of regularity, and people change them out of want, not need.
I remember pushing up, getting the lower lug up and over and then bringing the strut out from the bottom...
-J
01-06-2010, 09:18 AM
#66
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Bellingham WA.
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have only had my Turbo Esprit for 12 years. I've raced miata's, mr2's and done the Italian car disease in my youth.
The Z is a good daily driver that i refer to as my "Japanese Camaro", it's big and heavy.
01-29-2010, 04:30 AM
#68
My Bushing Install - Thnks OP for Great Write up sir..
Look Familiar?
A pic of metal to metal wear since I had to drive it like this for over 3 wks..
Old CRAPTASTIC OEM Bushing
Getting that hoe bag out
New one installed - if you cant tell Im a happy camper
DONE
Win for this DIY since I believe the whole arm costs like 200 bucks.. I got the bushings for 50 bucks (give or take) and labor was all me..
THX AGAIN Z-YA!
A pic of metal to metal wear since I had to drive it like this for over 3 wks..
Old CRAPTASTIC OEM Bushing
Getting that hoe bag out
New one installed - if you cant tell Im a happy camper
DONE
Win for this DIY since I believe the whole arm costs like 200 bucks.. I got the bushings for 50 bucks (give or take) and labor was all me..
THX AGAIN Z-YA!
02-01-2010, 06:31 AM
#71
350Z-holic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (60)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes
on
19 Posts
check with Z1 and see if they have one offered by whiteline...
Courtesy parts.com shows it as the entire knuckle......might wanna call them and see if they offer the balljoint only, if you cant find an aftermarket one:
http://www.courtesyparts.com/350z-pa...5_800_801.html
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 11-01-2012 at 04:14 AM.
02-01-2010, 06:56 AM
#72
Former Sponsor
iTrader: (564)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 19,266
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
5 Posts
that ball joint is not offered by Nissan/Infiniti nor by Whiteline at this time - perhaps at some point in the future
The one that is offered (we're running it on our cars here, plus on more than a few customer cars) is by Moonface Racing - it repositions the balljoint and includes the associated spacers for the rest of the control arm to put things back on an even plane once installed. Turn in response was remarkably improved after installing it - it was pretty amazing. Requires coilovers (since install will change your height and you need a way to change it back). Been in my car since Fall 2008, and it's worked flawlessly. Upside is it comes complete and nothing else is needed. Downside is cost (it's not cheap!), but Moonface is a higher end firm, and their stuff tends to fall on the expensive side of things.
The one that is offered (we're running it on our cars here, plus on more than a few customer cars) is by Moonface Racing - it repositions the balljoint and includes the associated spacers for the rest of the control arm to put things back on an even plane once installed. Turn in response was remarkably improved after installing it - it was pretty amazing. Requires coilovers (since install will change your height and you need a way to change it back). Been in my car since Fall 2008, and it's worked flawlessly. Upside is it comes complete and nothing else is needed. Downside is cost (it's not cheap!), but Moonface is a higher end firm, and their stuff tends to fall on the expensive side of things.
02-01-2010, 07:19 AM
#73
BLAST!!! Just did some more searching and found a thread saying that you have to buy the entire Knuckle ... nobody seems to sell just the bushing
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ll-joints.html
Sweet DIY by the way ... gonna check my other bushings this weekend ... So a call to Z1 for some Whitelines might be in my near future if any other bushings arent looking too good
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ll-joints.html
Sweet DIY by the way ... gonna check my other bushings this weekend ... So a call to Z1 for some Whitelines might be in my near future if any other bushings arent looking too good
02-01-2010, 07:56 AM
#74
350Z-holic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (60)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes
on
19 Posts
that ball joint is not offered by Nissan/Infiniti nor by Whiteline at this time - perhaps at some point in the future
The one that is offered (we're running it on our cars here, plus on more than a few customer cars) is by Moonface Racing - it repositions the balljoint and includes the associated spacers for the rest of the control arm to put things back on an even plane once installed. Turn in response was remarkably improved after installing it - it was pretty amazing. Requires coilovers (since install will change your height and you need a way to change it back). Been in my car since Fall 2008, and it's worked flawlessly. Upside is it comes complete and nothing else is needed. Downside is cost (it's not cheap!), but Moonface is a higher end firm, and their stuff tends to fall on the expensive side of things.
The one that is offered (we're running it on our cars here, plus on more than a few customer cars) is by Moonface Racing - it repositions the balljoint and includes the associated spacers for the rest of the control arm to put things back on an even plane once installed. Turn in response was remarkably improved after installing it - it was pretty amazing. Requires coilovers (since install will change your height and you need a way to change it back). Been in my car since Fall 2008, and it's worked flawlessly. Upside is it comes complete and nothing else is needed. Downside is cost (it's not cheap!), but Moonface is a higher end firm, and their stuff tends to fall on the expensive side of things.
https://my350z.com/forum/7717552-post15.html
-J
02-07-2010, 07:27 AM
#77
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Florida
Posts: 940
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just changed mine out. Bought totally new arms. I got a smoking deal on them so thats why I did it. The other bushing that mounts to the strut was beat down pretty hard also. I also changed all my shocks at the same time too. The car feels stable on the road again, no more scary wobbling at high speeds. Just as stable as a rock like when it was new!!
Last edited by twitch579; 02-07-2010 at 02:59 PM.
02-07-2010, 08:40 PM
#80
350Z-holic
Thread Starter
iTrader: (60)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Antonio/I miss DFW, TX
Posts: 11,204
Likes: 0
Received 28 Likes
on
19 Posts
https://my350z.com/forum/meet-ups-ev...-tech-day.html
-J
