DIY - Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement - Translink
#104
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Got them from a Semi-Local dealer. I actually had 2 sets! It was a back door special and I would rather not expose the dealer.
The first set I got was for a G35 Sedan. I thought that the control arms were the same but there actually not. Where the ball joint goes into Control arm is smaller on the G35 Sedan. The nut will not go on far enough and you wont be able to get the cotter pin in. I'm not sure about G35 Coupes.
Got some Z arms and just bolted them right up. While I had the car in the air I dropped out the struts also and threw in some new ones. Mine have 98,500 on them lol!
The first set I got was for a G35 Sedan. I thought that the control arms were the same but there actually not. Where the ball joint goes into Control arm is smaller on the G35 Sedan. The nut will not go on far enough and you wont be able to get the cotter pin in. I'm not sure about G35 Coupes.
Got some Z arms and just bolted them right up. While I had the car in the air I dropped out the struts also and threw in some new ones. Mine have 98,500 on them lol!
Question I have (and I hope nobody asked because I didn't look through all 6 pages), but what's the primary reason for these going out? Would "extreme" (-5.5) camber or stiff suspension add to the early failure?
I plan on replacing the entire arm rather than just the bushing, but I have no idea how long I've been driving with the bushing busted. Probably will be driving another couple of weeks like this. I know it's affecting my alignment, but driving like this, would it cause any wear to parts other than the lower control arm?
Last edited by donpisto; 02-02-2011 at 08:35 AM.
#105
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see here:
Oem bushing contact patch inside the race of the arm is not full circumference and only half the width of the metal race:
Whiteline bushing is the entire width of the arm and all the way around!:
the worst part is the translink moving forward and aft on that torn bushing and getting the aluminum arm edge worn down from making contact with the steel K member.
like shown here:
Pic of metal wear after only 3 weeks of driving with a bad bushing...
take from here - https://my350z.com/forum/8101704-post68.html
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; 02-04-2011 at 05:25 AM.
#111
hatersgonnahate
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Just got both of mine out.
Need to replace the passenger side bolt/nut since it was a pita to get out. Figure 85k miles and the factory tq spec...was on there tight.
I did not remove my LCA completely. What I did was just remove the LCA bolt and sway bar bolt and jacked the tire up which pivoted the lca down. I rented a bushing removal tool from advance pressed the bushings out. Waiting on the new whitelines to show up and press them back in.
franken socket available?
Need to replace the passenger side bolt/nut since it was a pita to get out. Figure 85k miles and the factory tq spec...was on there tight.
I did not remove my LCA completely. What I did was just remove the LCA bolt and sway bar bolt and jacked the tire up which pivoted the lca down. I rented a bushing removal tool from advance pressed the bushings out. Waiting on the new whitelines to show up and press them back in.
franken socket available?
#112
hatersgonnahate
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For those wanting to do just the inner bushing with the arm still on the car, rent this:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...zoneAssigned=1
Has everything needed except a 29mm socket. Remove the bolt from the inner bushing and sway bar endlinks only. Works like a champ. Just got mine all pressed back in.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...zoneAssigned=1
Has everything needed except a 29mm socket. Remove the bolt from the inner bushing and sway bar endlinks only. Works like a champ. Just got mine all pressed back in.
#113
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J- Whats the difference between the whiteline and energy bushing? I bought one from one of the Vendor here. I did not see any race/metal bushing like the ones from whiteline.
i'll post pics...
as you can see, there are no metal sleeve on the middle (race?)all polyurethane. I dont know if whiteline has no race sleeve in the middle.
Im doing my LCA and Compression Arm this week. Is this ok?, By the way, I sent you a PM asking to borrow the frankensocket for the LCA and Compression Arm...
-C
i'll post pics...
as you can see, there are no metal sleeve on the middle (race?)all polyurethane. I dont know if whiteline has no race sleeve in the middle.
Im doing my LCA and Compression Arm this week. Is this ok?, By the way, I sent you a PM asking to borrow the frankensocket for the LCA and Compression Arm...
-C
Last edited by SlipZ; 04-27-2011 at 03:48 PM.
#114
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For those wanting to do just the inner bushing with the arm still on the car, rent this:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...zoneAssigned=1
i dont think they have a store in northern cali...so that i can rent it...
Has everything needed except a 29mm socket. Remove the bolt from the inner bushing and sway bar endlinks only. Works like a champ. Just got mine all pressed back in.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...zoneAssigned=1
i dont think they have a store in northern cali...so that i can rent it...
Has everything needed except a 29mm socket. Remove the bolt from the inner bushing and sway bar endlinks only. Works like a champ. Just got mine all pressed back in.
#115
Registered User
I know this is an old thread, but i am just now getting to mine, and on Harborfreight.com they have a benchtop 6 ton press for 64 bucks, and they are also having a 25% off 4th of july one day discount on anything which brings it down to 48 a bucks!
cant beat that for a 6 ton press
cant beat that for a 6 ton press
#116
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Hello
I too in the process of replacing both of my bushings on the transverse link just replaced the ball joint last week well it pulled to the right like crazy checked it out and the bushing on the drivers sise had failed. I am going to rent the tool to press them out but need to rent that tool to press it back in would someone help?
How do you press them back in whitle the transverse unit is still connected to the car? newbie been reading
email me or pm
ilive4msubulldogs at yahoo dot com
How do you press them back in whitle the transverse unit is still connected to the car? newbie been reading
email me or pm
ilive4msubulldogs at yahoo dot com
#118
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^^ Just remove the translink from the car.........its not hard and makes the press job so much easier...
i gave the dimensions of the steel pipe diameter needed to make a frank socket.....your best bet is to just call up your local steel supply and have them cut you a piece for small cash, no reciept type deal.......
from there with your translinks OFF the car, hand carry them into any local mom and pop shop with a press..........hand them the peice of pipe and the translinks and pay cash for them to press out the bushings and in the new...
-J
i gave the dimensions of the steel pipe diameter needed to make a frank socket.....your best bet is to just call up your local steel supply and have them cut you a piece for small cash, no reciept type deal.......
from there with your translinks OFF the car, hand carry them into any local mom and pop shop with a press..........hand them the peice of pipe and the translinks and pay cash for them to press out the bushings and in the new...
-J
#120
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The best thing to do is to monitor this bushing....if your car is on factory shocks and springs or factory shocks and just lowering springs your suspension won't be sensitive enough to notice....
I have coilovers and my car would dance hitting bumps on the highway.....the steering wheel would have play and the car would "wiggle" going down the road....
-J
I have coilovers and my car would dance hitting bumps on the highway.....the steering wheel would have play and the car would "wiggle" going down the road....
-J