Nope. In fact, you don't have to bleed any of the brakes if you keep the bleed screw closed while retracting the caliper pistons. Not that I'm advocating this. I always bleed a caliper when I change the pads in it. Since you're right there anyway, it's only an extra 5 minutes. And it's easier to retract the piston(s) if the bleed screw is opened.

Got one of these myself after using clamps and a rag for years.

Thanks for the tourque settings.

Good looking out> i second puting up a diy for all members, since we all know how big of di*ks the dealerships can be. And anyways who wants someone else working on there baby if they can do it themselves.

After u install ur pads, its a good idea to open each bleeder and just let it gravity bleed for a minute, While I do this, I tap the caliper with whatever I have handy to dislodge any bubbles clinging to the interior of the Caliper. U will almost always get a little air,----Calipers get hot ,they get cold, they can suck a little air yet not leak. Takes a minute is all.

My question is this:

What size are the bolts that hold the pads to the rotor? My set runs out at 21mm and that wasn't big enough. I got the caliper piston off and then went to remove the rotor and those two bolts were too big for my tool kit. I need to buy a new socket, but don't know what size to buy.

Jeez --I dont know ---I just grab a socket ---But the set I use, goes up to 22mm

And I dont understand--Pads to the Rotor ?? Caliper Piston ??? Im not bustin on ya but a caliper is a caliper---U take off the caliper and the pads come with it ----U then compress the caliper piston(s) and after cleaning and lubing ur sliders and balancers, and spraying some anti-squeal on ur pads u reinstall them and put the "loaded" caliper back on-- "crack" a bleeder, and ur ready to go.

I wasnt bustin on ya either ---I was just confused as to ur terms. I do so many brakes I just dont recall all the sizes for all the different ones. If u are in fact taking off the bolts that hold the caliper in place and ur 21 dosent fit ---then a 22 will

Sorry, should have clarified, I am replacing the rotor and I need to remove the caliper mount bracket that the pads slide into. But I gotcha, I have done plenty of brakes in the past, but they were all on mitsu's and the bolt was 19. This car is B-A-S-I-C to do, just need the right socket.

Is there a write-up on how to bleed the brakes and refill them? I am replacing my brake pads soon and want to bleed the entire system and replace the fluid with Motul brand. Can someone also recommend which Motul brake fluid to go with if I auto-x frequently and track twice a year on a daily driver? Thanks.

I just wanted to drop a quick thankyou to the writer of this. I just did this today per your write up and it went 100% smooth. No hangups at all.

Thanks again!

Great write up. Thanks!!!

One question, I plan on replacing the break fluid as well and bleeding the lines.

Does anyone know if this is the bleeder balve? And if it is do you take the black cap off?
(Right of you wrench)
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/gmsjry/Picture011.jpg

The bleeder is to the right of the rachet and socket and has the rubber cap u just pull off, What the tool is on is the slider assy that compensates for Pad wear and keeps the caliper assy centered on the rotor---It needs to be lubed with hi-temp grease so as not to "freeze' up
And if u are serious--- The rubber cap is to keep moisture and debris out of the valve

That is indeed the bleeder valve. You remove the rubber cap and place a clear plastic tube on the end of the bleeder valve nipple, routing the other end into a catch can - either a soda can or a dedicated brake bleeding catch bottle.
https://secure5.nexternal.com/bimmer...der_bottle.jpg
Then you follow these instructions for bleeding the brakes: http://www.zeckhausen.com/bleeding_brakes.htm

Great, thanks for the fast response.

One more question...

I have read that the shimmeis (metal that goes between pad and caliper) can be left off. But my question is, if the pads are completly naked (nothing in between the pad and the caliper/piston, wont there be any damage to the piston or to the bad?

If the new pads come with antisqueal shims , I use them, if not, I dont. But I always spray a liberal coat of anti squeal and let it "tack" before I load the calipers
No damage will be caused what so ever

On my brembos, the dealer had changed the pads a year and a half ago to Hawk HPS. When I went to swap my pads and rotors, I used the same shims that were used before by the nissan dealer. AFter a while of debating in my head I realized the shims dont make sense to me. They are an angled design, meaning they cover maybe 70% of the pad from behind. I am not sure if anyone has seen the shim I am talking about, but I would like to know if I should continue using them, or remove them?

Thanks

I'll just repeat what I said ---If the pads come with them use them , if not ---Dont. If u happen to reuse them as in ur case --Dont loose any sleep over it

I decided to leave them off, since they were kind of hard to fit. I guess I'll enjoy the extra sound eventhoiough thet'll be making ebough of it since they are Hawk HP plus.

I am attempting to change my brake pads starting with the rears first. I can't for the life of me get the rear caliper bolts to even budge. At first I thought I had it moving turns out I just ended up cracking the socket ( Lesson don't buy $10 socket sets. Seemed like a good idea at the time.) I moved onto some wrenches and nothing. Next to the air rachet with the impact sockets, no snapping this time but the stupid bolt still won't move. I've just sprayed a bunch of WD-40 on the bolt to let it sit for a while. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

Are you sure you aren't turning them the wrong way? Sounds stupid but if you are looking at it from the opposite direction, could be. And are you talking about the bolts holding the caliper or the bolts holding the bracket the calipers are mounted to? The bolts holding the caliper should not be on that tight.