Did you turn or replace your Brembo rotors?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Did you turn or replace your Brembo rotors?
Front Rotor repair limit thickness With brembo: 28.4 (1.118)
Rear Rotor repair limit thickness With brembo: 20.2 (0.795)
I have 22mm on the rears. I haven't got to the front yet. Dealer told me I have .3 left on the rear pads and they always turn with new pads. They are smooth, can't feel or even see any lines, so I don't see the point of turning them.
Did you guys turn them with each pad change?
I'm looking at Endless SS-H pads as they are the same price as OEM and made for OEM Brembo's.
Also, there's a lot of track Brembo and non Brembo rotor threads. So i'm wondering if you (street or street/auto-x) guys replaced with OEM or what? Endless only has fronts (Curve & E-Slit). Stoptech Areorotor's are about the same as OE Brembo's. SCR Pro or Biot if I tracked the car. DBA T3's are half the price and CZP kit if I was broke.
Rear Rotor repair limit thickness With brembo: 20.2 (0.795)
I have 22mm on the rears. I haven't got to the front yet. Dealer told me I have .3 left on the rear pads and they always turn with new pads. They are smooth, can't feel or even see any lines, so I don't see the point of turning them.
Did you guys turn them with each pad change?
I'm looking at Endless SS-H pads as they are the same price as OEM and made for OEM Brembo's.
Also, there's a lot of track Brembo and non Brembo rotor threads. So i'm wondering if you (street or street/auto-x) guys replaced with OEM or what? Endless only has fronts (Curve & E-Slit). Stoptech Areorotor's are about the same as OE Brembo's. SCR Pro or Biot if I tracked the car. DBA T3's are half the price and CZP kit if I was broke.
#2
Super Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (8)
Hell no, only turn them if needed. Places love turning rotors, next time you will go back to them and you get to buy new rotors. It's all about profit.
#4
Registered User
iTrader: (15)
Or, you can buy pads, such as EBC, which have a "break-in" coating, which is highly abrasive to the rotors. During bedding in the pads, the coating cleans the rotors of any deposits from the previous pads. The abrasive wears off quickly and then it's like starting with a brand-new set of rotors. First time I saw anything like this was on the first set of OEM (Ate) replacement pads I bought for my E30 M3, way back in 1988.
#5
New Member
iTrader: (15)
If you are within specs just put the new pads on and bed them in. If they are close to the end of their life it might be a good idea to just replace them anyway while your hands are dirty.
Obviously don't trust anything the dealership tells you, ask to see it with your own eyes...
For replacements, just look for Centric Premium blanks and call it a day. All that other stuff is just stuff...Stoptech iirc uses Centric stock for their rotors also...
Obviously don't trust anything the dealership tells you, ask to see it with your own eyes...
For replacements, just look for Centric Premium blanks and call it a day. All that other stuff is just stuff...Stoptech iirc uses Centric stock for their rotors also...
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks guys!
Yeah, I think i'm switching dealers. The lugs were loose and the gold paint was chipped on the rear caliper. Last time it was the battery. The car is low mileage but they always find something to replace.
I've never had Brembo's, so I wasn't sure if that was normal or just a scam. Sounds like they get away with saying "Those are Brembo's and you can't turn the fronts. You need new rotors with new pads".
Also, i've never heard of the rear pads wearing first. I've always changed 2 fronts to every rear. I have the HPS on the FD that lives on jack stands but I think i'll try the Endless pads.
That makes sense 2000' but dang a .005 cut must be a nice machine. That would make them last a long time.
Yeah, I think i'm switching dealers. The lugs were loose and the gold paint was chipped on the rear caliper. Last time it was the battery. The car is low mileage but they always find something to replace.
I've never had Brembo's, so I wasn't sure if that was normal or just a scam. Sounds like they get away with saying "Those are Brembo's and you can't turn the fronts. You need new rotors with new pads".
Also, i've never heard of the rear pads wearing first. I've always changed 2 fronts to every rear. I have the HPS on the FD that lives on jack stands but I think i'll try the Endless pads.
That makes sense 2000' but dang a .005 cut must be a nice machine. That would make them last a long time.
Last edited by goracerx; 05-26-2014 at 10:00 AM.
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#8
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iTrader: (1)
I struggled with this same dilemma. When my 07 350 (GT w/Brembos) had about 15k miles, I wanted to do a few track days so I had the OEM brembo pads swapped out to StopTech 309's and had the brake fluid replaced with motul 600. stayed with and did not turn the Brembo rotors.
That setup always felt horrible and the rotors were always glazed. Once the brakes were hot, they felt great, but cold bite and normal non-racing driving felt weak.
Now I'm at 60k miles and the pads needed replacing again. This time I found the 309 pads and Centric blank rotors at rock auto. The rotors were a new 'high carbon' model. (Aren't all rotors high carbon?). They were way cheaper than OEM rotors. I did the recommended break-in procedure and actually had smoke coming off of the front brakes. Anyway, now they feel awesome - maybe better than factory new!
I attribute the difference to the having a 'clean' rotor so the brake bad material got bedded into the rotor correctly without being forced to work with the previous pad material. Another poster mentioned EBC has abrasive scrubbing layer on the pads. makes sense.
I would order new rotors from rock auto with your new pads. They were $55 per rotor. not sure why anyone would want to chance it at that price. plus the hub piece is painted black which looks much better than rust from the OEM rotors ;-)
That setup always felt horrible and the rotors were always glazed. Once the brakes were hot, they felt great, but cold bite and normal non-racing driving felt weak.
Now I'm at 60k miles and the pads needed replacing again. This time I found the 309 pads and Centric blank rotors at rock auto. The rotors were a new 'high carbon' model. (Aren't all rotors high carbon?). They were way cheaper than OEM rotors. I did the recommended break-in procedure and actually had smoke coming off of the front brakes. Anyway, now they feel awesome - maybe better than factory new!
I attribute the difference to the having a 'clean' rotor so the brake bad material got bedded into the rotor correctly without being forced to work with the previous pad material. Another poster mentioned EBC has abrasive scrubbing layer on the pads. makes sense.
I would order new rotors from rock auto with your new pads. They were $55 per rotor. not sure why anyone would want to chance it at that price. plus the hub piece is painted black which looks much better than rust from the OEM rotors ;-)
Last edited by RedlineHR; 08-31-2014 at 07:15 AM.
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Reopenning - relevant
Well, I never had them turned since the dealers wouldn't do it. I never checked with Midas or any place like that.
So I was rotating the pads since OEM inners wore twice as fast as the outers. The endless wore evenly ...so I thought. The front / left had what looked like a speed bump on them. I felt the inner rotor and there was a deep groove that matched.
I received a full set of StopTech's directional frilled rotors and they are about 1/4" too thick. Which also explains why they are way heavier. Now i'm thinking I should have bought DBA's while they were on sale but they are no longer directional which improves cooling. Moreover, I originally wanted drilled fronts and solid rears (since rears are said to be undersized) but that choice isn't available anymore either.
I'm not sure if I want StopTech replacements and I can't even find a contact # for RA.
Any good Brembo rotor replacements other than OEM?
So I was rotating the pads since OEM inners wore twice as fast as the outers. The endless wore evenly ...so I thought. The front / left had what looked like a speed bump on them. I felt the inner rotor and there was a deep groove that matched.
I received a full set of StopTech's directional frilled rotors and they are about 1/4" too thick. Which also explains why they are way heavier. Now i'm thinking I should have bought DBA's while they were on sale but they are no longer directional which improves cooling. Moreover, I originally wanted drilled fronts and solid rears (since rears are said to be undersized) but that choice isn't available anymore either.
I'm not sure if I want StopTech replacements and I can't even find a contact # for RA.
Any good Brembo rotor replacements other than OEM?
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thanks for reply but was referring to the Brembo's for turning which are a solid surface. Dealer states they are disposable and would not measure them. I tried a dealer by the house and one by work and both claimed the same. Maybe I should have tried more but the inners wear scraping the metal wear tab and they felt smooth with my fingernail when I installed the Endless pads.
OK, so I googled the part number 127.2076L and it looks like the 6 is the front and the 9 are the rear. I don't get it. I remember the 9's being heavier and bigger.
OK, so I googled the part number 127.2076L and it looks like the 6 is the front and the 9 are the rear. I don't get it. I remember the 9's being heavier and bigger.
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
These direct replacement rotors are not StopTech AeroRotors. The internal vane structure is identical to stock rotors, but they are available slotted or drilled.[/url]
What? I didn't even want slots. I wanted drilled and directional cooling vanes.
What? I didn't even want slots. I wanted drilled and directional cooling vanes.
#13
New Member
I turn with a change of brake compounds. Or if they have a lip on them
If the rotors seem fine and they are using the same pads then I wouldn't
If the rotors seem fine and they are using the same pads then I wouldn't
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