JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

^ thanks......ya i did what i could......im constantly adding to it as i remember things, see more products, etc......

definitely is a lot.....
-J

Diesel350

iTrader: (6)

Jason,
Just got my alignment done and my car does SLIGHTLY pull to the right. May just be the roads but at any rate what do you think of my alignment below?


Front

Camber
Left: -1.5 Right: -1.3

Caster
Left: 8.6 Right: 8.9

Toe
Left: .05 Right .03

SAI
Left: 5.5 Right 5.0

Included Angle
Left: 4.0 Right: 3.7

Rear

Camber
Left: -1.7 Right -1.7

Toe
Left: .10 Right: .09

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

well, your numbers don't look too bad, but your front camber differences along with your differences in SAI and IA are what are causing the pull........

Google them..............

I'm guessing you have oem upper control arms?
-J

Diesel350

iTrader: (6)

No, I have the Ichiba front control arms. The alignment guy said that he couldn't bring the camber in any more than that.

plumpzz

iTrader: (10)

Epic. Now we need to get some shock dynos on available shocks. I'm suspect of many setups. I wish I had shock dyno'd my setup just to be sure.

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

ya, okay that makes sense......the ichiba's can top out..........how low do you have your car???

the difference from left to right can be bushings.....its hard to tell .00 anything by looking but the compression arm bushing has way to much compliance in it....

I would bet that would be the culprit in these figures........
-J

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

ya that would be nice....

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

Okay I would also like to note, that i have seen this more than once and failed to mention it..........Ill add this to post 16 to ensure it gets exposure...

when installing coilovers in the rear............whether they are true or oem style coilovers, i recommend prior to doing so you purchase quality replacement hardware in lieu of reusing the oem shock nuts that are there from Nissan.....

See back there the 350z has two studs hanging down..........and the coilovers attach via two each M8x1.25 nuts with 12mm hex - so you need to use a 12mm socket to remove them........

ensure you have a good straight long extension and that you DON'T strip those nuts!!!

SEE HERE:


LOL, ask/pm TQUILL all about that.........but like i have said, i have since seen it a few times since his lil incident at the DFW TECH DAY....

anywho...........
I recommend purchasing either M8x1.25 nuts that utilize a 14MM hex so that a 14mm socket is needed (easy to up size to 14mm with oem style coilovers as there is no 2.5 inch coil like true coilovers) at that location.

I have also sourced higher quality yellow zinc coated strut tower bolts from other vehicles at the junk yard and use them on my own car!

I recently grabbed some very similar to these off a toyota at the junk yard...........they were yellow zinc embossed M12x1.25 nuts with 12mm hex.

They have held up great! and dont strip so easily....

Also, those studs hanging down are not that long, and nearly all the coilovers out there have a thick top plate in aluminum versus the oem shock "steel stamped" skinny plate..... so keep that in mind when sourcing embossed nuts for this situation.

These are very similar to what i sourced at the junk yard: Mine weren't as tall:


Notice how chebosto has upgraded yellow zink flanged nuts on his set up:

Also, notice how thick the top RED section is, and how there is only 1 thread left protruding from the nut.....depending on how thick your rear mount plate is.............figure out what nuts would work best!

-J

Diesel350

iTrader: (6)

I checked the bushings with the alignment guy and they all looked fine to us. I am lowered on Hotchkis which lower the car .8" in the front I believe. I plan on going lower once I get coilovers, will I have to change to different brand of front control arms to get into spec on the front?

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

Its quite hard to see .3 or what not of degrees of misalignment in bushings.....

it could have also been more settlement of one spring over the other....after driving straight for a while, you can measure your fender from the ground on both sides and see where they are at...

yes, if the ichibas topped out on adjustment at that drop height........any lower would result in more negative camber numbers up front........

IMHO, the factory specs are weak.....i think a good -1.7 or so up front is fine....even on a daily driven car......

I find it weird that your ichibas topped out with such a minor drop.....can you take pics of the upper control arm? to show where the ichibas are all the way over and cant be moved/adjusted anymore?

-J

Diesel350

iTrader: (6)

I measured both fenders from the ground up and they are exactly the same height on both sides.
My current ride height:


Drivers right side:







Left Side passenger:

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

then it has to be bushing sag somewhere.......

okay so you cant remove the outside most bolts and slide the plate outward more to get more camber if you drop lower? i bet you can and the alignment tech just didnt want to mess with it anymore.???

-J

Diesel350

iTrader: (6)

I don't know. does it look like I can slide the plate out more from the pics in order to bring the camber in a bit more?

tumzilla

iTrader: (4)

can my gf210 springs make my car floaty/loose rear end on the highway? can it be a combination or worn rear tires/springs? i just got my car aligned and what could cause my brake to squeal only when turning in reverse?

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

sounds more like the oem shocks are out......and the car is just bouncing/floating on the springs.....

post up your alignment sheet then.....
and squealing in reverse is fine.........99% of the time the car travels forward and the pads wear to that direction.......when you reverse, you can get a squeal because usually pads are not warmed up in any typical reverse maneuver and your going in an opposite than the typical direction so a squeal permits.....

the only squeal you need to be weary of is when the noise makers on the pads are making metal on metal contact and your pads are worn down thin....

-J

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

NO it doesnt....

see i just installed some ichibas this past weekend.....and was not super pleased with them.......

if you would take a picture of the top part of that mount you will see that the circular section is topped out at the edge of the ichiba "doctors pill" slot, so there is no more greater adjustment you can do.

-J

Diesel350

iTrader: (6)

Yeah I am a bit disappointed because I wanted to go lower eventually and wanted more adjustability. Guess I will have to sell them and get another camber arm. Any suggestions? SPL?

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

I run SPL's but I had to make more of my own shims........see my post#8........plus spl's just had a price hike........I wanted spl's because adjusting caster was something i wanted.......and I sure as hell wasnt gonna buy spc's....

the trials and tribulations of modding......sux but at least you can sell them off and get what you want.....

I would go lower and see where you end up at first and go from there...
-J

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

Also, in general i get pm's asking different questions about suspension after people read this thread..............

please refrain from pm'ing me and post on this thread your questions so that everyone can be included and others that have the same questions can have their answers as well.

-J

ROM350Z

iTrader: (5)

**** THIS POST 129 WAS A NEW THREAD THAT I MERGED TO THIS ONE**** - JASON


Im buying stance gr+ soon. Im debating on wether to go true type on the rear or OEM style in the rear. i cant decide which will be better for me. im not looking to slam the car but also not have any finger gap in the rear. i want to have the rear low to the point where theres no finger gap without any perch modification or ect... this car is daily driven and will occasionally be autox'd. i just want to know whats better to go with. im running wider wheels and tires too btw.