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Looks like a good way to gum up the brake pads the first few times the brakes get hot. That yellow paint or ceramic coating will wear away and STILL reveal a shiny silver finish underneath. Before that, you'll notice a severe lack of braking ability as the paint or coating wears off.
I've got these Centric rotors on my '08, which were included new with a set used Brembo calipers I bought several years ago. I had them, so why not try, even though they're a mid/low priced rotor. Now it's 3 years later, and they still look and perform as new, with EBC Redstuff pads the whole time.
I've been using Centric Cryo-High Carbon Plain 125 Series Rotor on my Z along with Centric Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads for the past 4 years and couldn't be happier. Another big plus was adding the Stop-Tech stainless steel braided brake lines on all four corners. Not expensive, and a huge step-up over the stock brake rotors and pads.
Remember, if you're going to change out your own brakes, plan on getting a positive pressure bleeder like the one from Motive. Here's a link to the one specific to the Nissan (the good version):
I got the full version for all models since I work on a variety of cars. The 350Z is not meant to be bled with the brake pedal or with a vacuum bleeder (check the FSM). The Motive positive pressure bleeder works beautifully.
Nissans can be kind of a ***** to bleed without the right equipment and they don't follow the old-style rules in terms of bleed order or pedal bleeding. Some models even require that you disconnect the ABS control module (or simply disconnect the battery) when you bleed them - if you don't, the brakes will throw error codes after they've been bled. You don't need to disconnect the power on the 350Z though.
Like I said, follow the procedure from the FSM and you'll be golden.
I've been using Centric Cryo-High Carbon Plain 125 Series Rotor on my Z along with Centric Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads for the past 4 years and couldn't be happier. Another big plus was adding the Stop-Tech stainless steel braided brake lines on all four corners. Not expensive, and a huge step-up over the stock brake rotors and pads.
Remember, if you're going to change out your own brakes, plan on getting a positive pressure bleeder like the one from Motive. Here's a link to the one specific to the Nissan (the good version):
I got the full version for all models since I work on a variety of cars. The 350Z is not meant to be bled with the brake pedal or with a vacuum bleeder (check the FSM). The Motive positive pressure bleeder works beautifully.
Nissans can be kind of a ***** to bleed without the right equipment and they don't follow the old-style rules in terms of bleed order or pedal bleeding. Some models even require that you disconnect the ABS control module (or simply disconnect the battery) when you bleed them - if you don't, the brakes will throw error codes after they've been bled. You don't need to disconnect the power on the 350Z though.
Like I said, follow the procedure from the FSM and you'll be golden.
Cool. Thanks. I had heard they were a Beeotch to bleed. But yeah ill be doing the work myself.
Not sure about why others have had such a problem with bleeding brakes on Nissans. Whether I'm working on my street or race 350Zs, I simply use my large volume brake fluid extractor (https://www.griotsgarage.com/product...e=&from=Search) and bleed each corner in order of distance from the brake master. Just make sure to put some vacuum on the bleeder nipple before you open it and never let the master run dry.
On race weekends, it's not unusual to do a partial brake system bleed several times to ensure my Z33 has relatively fresh brake fluid throughout all the calipers. Never had to disconnect the battery while doing it either, but scanning the ABS system with UpRev 's Cipher is also a mandatory task as well. In any case, if the OP is just changing out pads and rotors, he may not even need to crack the system unless it's low on brake fluid or has never been changed.
Not sure about why others have had such a problem with bleeding brakes on Nissans. Whether I'm working on my street or race 350Zs, I simply use my large volume brake fluid extractor (https://www.griotsgarage.com/product...e=&from=Search) and bleed each corner in order of distance from the brake master. Just make sure to put some vacuum on the bleeder nipple before you open it and never let the master run dry.
On race weekends, it's not unusual to do a partial brake system bleed several times to ensure my Z33 has relatively fresh brake fluid throughout all the calipers. Never had to disconnect the battery while doing it either, but scanning the ABS system with UpRev 's Cipher is also a mandatory task as well. In any case, if the OP is just changing out pads and rotors, he may not even need to crack the system unless it's low on brake fluid or has never been changed.
I will be flushing as well. Going to order super blue dot 4 probably. That's what is in my clutch as well.
You won't find any Super Blue. The Typ 200 is the same, except for color, and readily available. I won't get into the reason the blue is gone, because it's just too stupid.
You won't find any Super Blue. The Typ 200 is the same, except for color, and readily available. I won't get into the reason the blue is gone, because it's just too stupid.
The company is run by staunch Republicans?
Well, you said the reason was stupid so I ask a stupid question. Hahahahaha....
But ya, FMVSS figures out after 15 years that the stuff actually IS blue color and therefore doesn't conform to their "standard"? Like telling Prestone that coolant can't be green. Pshawwww... lame.
I've tried the pedal pump bleed on the Z and after getting all the air out (supposedly), I had mashed potato brakes. I re-bled them that way and got the same result. After using the Motive bleeder once, which took about half the time as the pedal pump method, the brakes were rock solid. It was proof enough for me that this was the way to go.
As a rule, I usually change out the brake fluid whenever I do a pad/rotor change, if for anything, to get any water out of the system since brake fluid is hygroscopic and even after a year or two, can get nasty.
I think I have two unopened cans of the actual blue-colored Super Blue laying around my shop. I hear that stuff is almost considered collectible now. The only thing I think it's good for is to do a flush and refill with amber fluid so that you know you got all the fluid out. Otherwise, it's just Smurf juice.
You won't find any Super Blue. The Typ 200 is the same, except for color, and readily available. I won't get into the reason the blue is gone, because it's just too stupid.
Yeah that's what I ordered for my clutch. Some shop out of Texas had a good price and free shipping. It's amber in color.
Okay so I decided to save a few more bucks than planned and order the czp centric rotor, hawk pad kit with ss lines and super blue fluid included. The rotors are NOT black and after the info I got on this thread i figure they wouldn't look black for long if I went out of my way to order them. I'm aware that slotted are more durable than cross drilled and slotted but for the amount of track time I'll actually be spending I don't feel as if it's a necessity to miss out on the esthetics of drilled rotors.
My first track day this year will be in late may. I'll order the kit in 2 weeks for $650. Should be ready. The pads are the hp plus street pad but they should suffice for a handful of track days every year.
Once again thanks to everyone for the awesome input. Any further opinions on my choice of brakes are more than welcome. Although for the money I would be hard pressed to go any other direction.
IPP had a stoptech kit for a little more money but I want to try hawk pads because a friend who tracks a lot swears by them.
Are these for base model brakes or track model brakes? Tire rack has a hawk sector 27 brake package with pads and rotors for base brakes for like $400 with free shipping. Ive used them for a whopping 1500 miles or so and they held up so good.... (they are actually kinda a sloppy fit but not horrible) deff a better bang for your buck package though for base brakes.
Brembo brakes they have a centric 125 rotor with semi metallic pads for like $300... No cool holes or slots though... But tire rack has some good deals, and feee shipping.
Are these for base model brakes or track model brakes? Tire rack has a hawk sector 27 brake package with pads and rotors for base brakes for like $400 with free shipping. Ive used them for a whopping 1500 miles or so and they held up so good.... (they are actually kinda a sloppy fit but not horrible) deff a better bang for your buck package though for base brakes.
Brembo brakes they have a centric 125 rotor with semi metallic pads for like $300... No cool holes or slots though... But tire rack has some good deals, and feee shipping.
I didn't think to check tire rack at all. Lol.
I already ordered from czp. I have the anniversary so it's brembo track. The boss okayed the purchase on the card this morning. What's done is done. But I'm satisfied. Thanks for the info though.
I've been using Centric Cryo-High Carbon Plain 125 Series Rotor on my Z along with Centric Posi Quiet Ceramic Pads for the past 4 years and couldn't be happier. Another big plus was adding the Stop-Tech stainless steel braided brake lines on all four corners. Not expensive, and a huge step-up over the stock brake rotors and pads.
Remember, if you're going to change out your own brakes, plan on getting a positive pressure bleeder like the one from Motive. Here's a link to the one specific to the Nissan (the good version):
I got the full version for all models since I work on a variety of cars. The 350Z is not meant to be bled with the brake pedal or with a vacuum bleeder (check the FSM). The Motive positive pressure bleeder works beautifully.
Nissans can be kind of a ***** to bleed without the right equipment and they don't follow the old-style rules in terms of bleed order or pedal bleeding. Some models even require that you disconnect the ABS control module (or simply disconnect the battery) when you bleed them - if you don't, the brakes will throw error codes after they've been bled. You don't need to disconnect the power on the 350Z though.
Like I said, follow the procedure from the FSM and you'll be golden.
Ordering this Friday. Thanks for the heads up. The extractor was a little pricier and since I only work on a Z at the moment I'll go with the less expensive option. The wifey has a warranty so I don't have to work much on her ride.
Thanks again for the info. I've done pads and rotors on a few cars. My 85' c10 was so easy to bleed it was almost unfair. The SS lines and proper bleed are my only real points of concern. But I'm definitely looking forward to the upgrade. Already have my first track day lined up in May :-)
Already have my first track day lined up in May :-)
If you are going to do track days you'll be bleeding the brakes often so having the right tool helps. I've done a quick top off when switching pads by using the standard pump-the-pedal method but the pressure bleeder is so easy. Just make sure you have enough fluid so it doesn't run dry. On the street the difference between various pads isn't very noticeable (other then dust or noise) but on the track it will make a major difference, especially after multiple sessions.
Just be sure to check pad thickness and fluid level before each track day. Once the pads are 1/2 worn they are pretty much done on the track, but would be OK for street use down to 1/4 thickness. Now if at any time on track the brakes feel soft, funny or just "odd" head back to the garage. The problem with brakes is they tend to work perfectly fine... until they don't work at all. I blew a rear seal on the stock calipers once on track thankfully after pumping like mad the other 3 brakes held enough that I made the turn and was able to limp back in.
03-28-2017, 12:41 PM
thankfully after pumping like mad the other 3 brakes held enough that I made the turn and was able to limp back in.
