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If I plan on getting wider tires in future should I bother with springs?
I know this may seem like a stupid question but I just want to be sure. So I want to get springs+struts for my car because at least around my price range, 1000-1200 they offer a better performing, more reliable setup over coil overs. Just so everyone's clear on what the intent with my car is, I'll be attending a few SCCA style events a year and occasional track days, but mostly this car is a daily, for now. Anyways I'm currently running a 265/35 square tire setup, against the advice of some people of this forum, and want to try a staggered setup as soon as I need to change my tires. If I were lowered 1.5" on some springs, how would that translate onto 275/295 tires? I would guess no difference right? Only issue would be fender clearance if there is one and the solution would be fender rolling or camber adjustment right? I really don't want to cheap on suspension but I can't really justify myself to spend 2K on coil overs, I'm not rich.
I know this may seem like a stupid question but I just want to be sure. So I want to get springs+struts for my car because at least around my price range, 1000-1200 they offer a better performing, more reliable setup over coil overs. Just so everyone's clear on what the intent with my car is, I'll be attending a few SCCA style events a year and occasional track days, but mostly this car is a daily, for now. Anyways I'm currently running a 265/35 square tire setup, against the advice of some people of this forum, and want to try a staggered setup as soon as I need to change my tires. If I were lowered 1.5" on some springs, how would that translate onto 275/295 tires? I would guess no difference right? Only issue would be fender clearance if there is one and the solution would be fender rolling or camber adjustment right? I really don't want to cheap on suspension but I can't really justify myself to spend 2K on coil overs, I'm not rich.
Not really sure what you're asking. "Translate"? Clarify?
Sounds like you're asking if the performance will be the same....???? It won't unless you align properly with that severe a drop. And, with the new tires (stagger differential and size), you're changing the entire at-limit characteristics of the car.
You mention camber adjustment... so does that $1000-1200 budget factor in F&R camber adjusters? Won't fit that budget (unless you buy cheap junk). FUCAs of any quality will run you $500+, rear c-arms are relatively cheap but add all of that to a set of Konis (or equal, which is minimally what you want for track duty) and a set of decent springs + performance alignment, you're way over $1200.
Also don't see any mention of adjustable sway bars, replacement of old bushings, etc. etc
If you drop the car an inch or more, you change the suspension geometry beyond what the OEM components provide for adjusting the car to specs. That means that in addition to shocks and springs, you need to buy new suspension components. You will probably go over your budget 0f $1200.
You might want to consider dropping the car less than an inch to keep your project within your budget.
If you drop the car an inch or more, you change the suspension geometry beyond what the OEM components provide for adjusting the car to specs. That means that in addition to shocks and springs, you need to buy new suspension components. You will probably go over your budget 0f $1200.
You might want to consider dropping the car less than an inch to keep your project within your budget.
Too late, OP already bought Sportlines..... guess he better pony up for FUCAs and c-arms. Alignment gonna suck without.
I'm installing toe bolts that I had from my camber arms kit along with shocks and springs this Friday and will try and fit alignment Saturday. Will keep you guys updated.
Alright boys, here are alignment specs. Just a couple things to note, the car was involved in an accident before I purchased it. The car was hit on the drivers side rear quarter panel/drivers door area causing an issue you'll see in my specs. I've rolled all four fenders, the front were rubbing on bumps but the rears weren't rubbing but they were close and if I were to put 275/285/295 in the future then they definitely would have touched the fender. I also installed toe bolts that I had from my SPC rear camber arm kit.
Alright boys, here are alignment specs. Just a couple things to note, the car was involved in an accident before I purchased it. The car was hit on the drivers side rear quarter panel/drivers door area causing an issue you'll see in my specs. I've rolled all four fenders, the front were rubbing on bumps but the rears weren't rubbing but they were close and if I were to put 275/285/295 in the future then they definitely would have touched the fender. I also installed toe bolts that I had from my SPC rear camber arm kit.
Before
After
Pretty out there as expected with the Sportline springs. Looks like your next upgrade will be FUCAs. But gettin' there!
For the sake of not starting a new thread I'm going to jump on this old one.
I am putting some 265/35/18 et35 wheels up front and 265/35/18 et20 wheels in back and I know the gap will be significant. What my question is with the Pro-Kit from Eibach will I need to do the fronts UCA's or just the rear camber/toe fix?
For the sake of not starting a new thread I'm going to jump on this old one.
I am putting some 265/35/18 et35 wheels up front and 265/35/18 et20 wheels in back and I know the gap will be significant. What my question is with the Pro-Kit from Eibach will I need to do the fronts UCA's or just the rear camber/caster fix?
You may not have to do either. Pro-Kits are advertised to drop a Z 1.2". They will rarely do that. More like <1.0" and at that point it's probably good to install, then check the alignment. Of course, always good to have adjustability to be able to fine tune your alignment specs; but again, I'd install the springs and check if you want to try and save some money for use on sway bars or something more fun.
You may not have to do either. Pro-Kits are advertised to drop a Z 1.2". They will rarely do that. More like <1.0" and at that point it's probably good to install, then check the alignment. Of course, always good to have adjustability to be able to fine tune your alignment specs; but again, I'd install the springs and check if you want to try and save some money for use on sway bars or something more fun.
I've been reading that but wasn't sure how accurate that would be. I've got koni yellows and sway up front already so this is to just finish off the look. Do you think I might need more of a drop than the springs will provide?
I've been reading that but wasn't sure how accurate that would be. I've got koni yellows and sway up front already so this is to just finish off the look. Do you think I might need more of a drop than the springs will provide?
Well, only you can be the judge of whether you need more drop.
Koni/Eibach, net drop -19mm
Some would probably want to lower it further down into the weeds. Me, I prefer a suspension that works so I don't need any more lowering. Then again, I have every form of alignment compensation underneath and pay attention to the alignment on a regular - every two months (if its driven at all) - basis.
Well, only you can be the judge of whether you need more drop.
Koni/Eibach, net drop -19mm
Some would probably want to lower it further down into the weeds. Me, I prefer a suspension that works so I don't need any more lowering. Then again, I have every form of alignment compensation underneath and pay attention to the alignment on a regular - every two months (if its driven at all) - basis.
Is that your car with the above Koni/Eibach combo? If so that is what I am looking for. Nothing crazy just looking for the Z to look like the sports car it is.
Is that your car with the above Koni/Eibach combo? If so that is what I am looking for. Nothing crazy just looking for the Z to look like the sports car it is.
08-23-2017, 07:05 PM
If I plan on getting wider tires in future should I bother with springs?
