High Clutch? want to lower your clutch engagement point?
#102
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I had to lay on my side or else I couldn't move my arms...uncomfortable, but once you get your bearings you're only down there for a bit.
As far as cruise control goes, you simply need to loosen the lock nut for the ASCD switch, screw it in a few turns and tighten it back up so that it is still triggered by the now lowered pedal.
As far as cruise control goes, you simply need to loosen the lock nut for the ASCD switch, screw it in a few turns and tighten it back up so that it is still triggered by the now lowered pedal.
#104
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Originally Posted by 350Zenophile
I had to lay on my side or else I couldn't move my arms...uncomfortable, but once you get your bearings you're only down there for a bit.
As far as cruise control goes, you simply need to loosen the lock nut for the ASCD switch, screw it in a few turns and tighten it back up so that it is still triggered by the now lowered pedal.
As far as cruise control goes, you simply need to loosen the lock nut for the ASCD switch, screw it in a few turns and tighten it back up so that it is still triggered by the now lowered pedal.
#105
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I did this and it rocks...but I cant seem to get my cruise to work again. Hope I didnt totally eff something up. Nice diagram btw 350Zenophile.
i guess Im going to just have to go outside in the bleeding heat and stand on my head in my car for another hour to figure this out.
i guess Im going to just have to go outside in the bleeding heat and stand on my head in my car for another hour to figure this out.
#106
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Originally Posted by TXSTYLE
Are you guys laying down on your backs and sliding into the car face up when you do this? I am 6' & 225lbs.
This is exactly what Im doing, and Im 6'6" and 265lbs. It aint fun, nor can I imagine it being very pretty.
#107
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Originally Posted by Tackett
This is exactly what Im doing, and Im 6'6" and 265lbs. It aint fun, nor can I imagine it being very pretty.
Damn...! I feel your pain bro. And did any of you drop any tools while working? And have to slide all the way the fok out...
Oh well... Nice mod nontheless.
#108
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One of the best things I've done to the car in 2+ years. Thanks for the excellent write-up. I set mine to engage just about 1/4 to 1/2 inch off the floor. Best thing I've noticed is it engages and shifts SOOOOO much smoother now. I've driven manuals for 15+ years and had no problems until this one but it seemed as if 25% of my 1-2 shifts were "jerky" for whatever reason. Went out and drove for 10 minutes or so and smooth as silk. It's like a having a new car!
#109
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Adjusting the cruise control took me about 2 minutes. Look up for a white plastic piece and a little plunger that should be hitting it. Adjust the nut above that, thread the plunger down (I pushed on the clutch pedal a little to ensure it was down far enough) and re-tighten. It took me 5 minutes, and that included getting the car out to make sure it would set.
Still my favorite adjustment to the car.
Still my favorite adjustment to the car.
Last edited by HokieZ; 08-11-2005 at 03:28 PM.
#110
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Which mod are you guys performing? The one earlier in this thread, or the one in the other thread linked from this one? I'm confused which one I should try now?
#111
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Perhaps I'm being naive but it would seem to me as long as you can shift with the pedal depressed, it's fully disengaged. If you let out on the pedal and can push on it 1/2 or 1" in and it doesn't change the RPM's at a fixed RPM, the clutch is fully re-engaged.
Make sense?
Make sense?
#112
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Originally Posted by zrdude
Which mod are you guys performing? The one earlier in this thread, or the one in the other thread linked from this one? I'm confused which one I should try now?
#113
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I would remove the kick plate and dead pedal, it takes 1 min. to take both out. It allows for easy adjustment with the tools. I have a BASE, so no cruise control. I was able to do the fix with tweaking and driving around in 30 minutes. I didn't even know this was possible until I came across the thread. I never liked the slop caused by the cotter/PIN and long movement of the clutch. I probably should have read the directions verse glancing at the three pics. Once under there it all made sense I adjusted the bolt/actuator to lower the pedal flush with the brake at 1.5 turns. At that point I realized the return/stop had to be adjusted. This gave me the opportunity remove the slop caused by the pin, which I always hated. I left 1/2" of play before heavy vibration, which to me is the beginning of the disengagement of the clutch.
All I can say is I LOVE it. It seems it will mesh nicely with my style of driving, which is quick shifts and half-clutching. Before I would press the pedal a full 1.5" before it began to engage. Now I'm already there! This will keep me from occasionally grinding second when attempting blistering speeds off the line
Zquicksilver
All I can say is I LOVE it. It seems it will mesh nicely with my style of driving, which is quick shifts and half-clutching. Before I would press the pedal a full 1.5" before it began to engage. Now I'm already there! This will keep me from occasionally grinding second when attempting blistering speeds off the line
Zquicksilver
#115
Hmm, my clutch pedal spring isn't bringing the pedal back to the top. Wondering if there's anyway to fix it. I'm only down 2 turns so it's not that low. Wonder if there's a way to adjust the spring tension.
#116
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I just brought my car into the dealership today for a wheel speed sensor issue and spoke with the master tech. He said the only thing that is adjustable on the clutch is the freeplay, and that otherwise the clutch is self adjusting and will naturally get higher as the clutch wears. I mentioned the methods here for adjusting the clutch and he said that is definitely not recommended if you don't want to wear your clutch out prematurely. Could be b.s., but this guy has been really good to me in the past and seems knowledgable. Z Car Garage in San Jose also said there was very little room for clutch adjustment without running the risk of clutch wear. Anyone else have a connection w/a dealership and can confirm?
#117
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I just did my clutch too ! The difference is unbeleivable. I suggest everyone to do the same. I haven't checked if the cruise control works or not. I'll do that later on and let you guys know if anything is wrong with it.
BIG THANKS TO TANTRUM for the tip
BIG THANKS TO TANTRUM for the tip
#118
Originally Posted by zrdude
I just brought my car into the dealership today for a wheel speed sensor issue and spoke with the master tech. He said the only thing that is adjustable on the clutch is the freeplay, and that otherwise the clutch is self adjusting and will naturally get higher as the clutch wears. I mentioned the methods here for adjusting the clutch and he said that is definitely not recommended if you don't want to wear your clutch out prematurely. Could be b.s., but this guy has been really good to me in the past and seems knowledgable. Z Car Garage in San Jose also said there was very little room for clutch adjustment without running the risk of clutch wear. Anyone else have a connection w/a dealership and can confirm?
Hmm, I'm bringing mine in for it's first oil change soon. I'll ask then. Hopefully others can ask also. I'm still nervous about it. But damn, does it feel nice.
#119
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I went 1 full turn, was really easy since i already had a shortened 12mm. My cruise switch was still mechnically operational at that point. Test drive tomorrow...
#120
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I did two turns on my 05 G since that seems to be the most common settling point here. Here is my question, is the clutch engagement or travel distance the same from the factory for both the G and the Z, or is the Z a bit shorter? Im just wondering if my 2 turns are equivalent to say 1.5 turns on the Z?