When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Bumping an old thread, my first UOA! Been running Castrol Edge 0w-30 with a Purolator Pure-One PL14610 filter since boosted at 61,xxx miles, this is my second change with this setup. (Didn't think to get the first one tested ). Switched to a Mobil 1 M1-110 filter and will compare the two on the next change.
A decade or so ago everyone was on the GC 0W-30, M1 0-40 and Rotella T6 kick because of the internet forum sensation created for them from enthusiasts using lab test results. I ran up on the article above a number of months ago which more or less claims to debunk this thread and many like it as myths rather than truths. It's a lengthy read, but my take on it is as follows:
For the best stock 5W-30 off the shelf full synthetic I'd run M1 5W-30. I just switched my racecar to Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5W-30 because of it's ultra high test ratings under higher than average heat which the turbo in my S13 could be subjected to.
For personal daily drivers such as my almost 11yr old G35 (now with 110k) I will run Pennzoil High Mileage 5W-30 because of the greatest test rating compared to Valvoline and Castrol High Mileage oils in 5W-30 weights respectively and cheaper price.
If you scroll down you will see that our beloved GC 0W-30, M1 0W-40 and Rotella T6 are near the bottom of the rankings! I'm not even sure I'd use eurospec oil in my parent's BMW anymore. For it's next change I would probably use almost any other oil near the top. Maybe Pennzoil High Mileage 5W-30 again for convenience. Seriously, why are we running diesel oil in our cars requiring "5W-30!"
Lastly, the article recommends oil change intervals at least every 5,000mi regardless of whether the oil is synthetic or conventional. There's no point in exposing your motor to more grit and dirt with extended oil change intervals considering the low cost of these highly ranked off the shelf oils. Anyway, I hope this opens people's eyes to another perspective and saves wasted money on lab testing results.
UOA is to see what state the oil is in and read into foreign contaminants from the engine.
Article said that "UOA" (which apparently is not proper oil engineering terminology) is virtually useless and it says nothing about how well a particular oil protects your engine. He goes on to test dozens of oils to evaluate their actual protecting ability. Our popular oils such as GC 0W-30, M1 0W-40 and Rotella T6 are nowhere near the top of the list. Try #149 for GC 0W-30 and #100 for the old formula Mobil1 0W-40. Rotella T6 5W-40 is ranked #156 lol. Go back to my post and I picked out some of the best stock 5W-30 full synthetic and semi synthetic high mileage oils according to said article. Just trying to help out.
Alright, unfortunately i don't have the time to read it right now, but i covered the intro and it looks worthy of a read, thanks.
This is what he had to say about a recent reformulation of Mobil 1 0W-40:
"3. 0W40 Mobil 1 “FS” European Car Formula, API SN, synthetic = 127,221 psi
This new oil replaces the older version called, 0W40 Mobil 1, European Formula, API SN, synthetic. See below for the older version’s ranking position.
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
This new “FS” version was tested in Summer 2016. This oil produced the highest psi value ever seen in my testing, from any motor oil just as it comes right out of the bottle, with no aftermarket additives. Very impressive.
I also went on to test this oil at the much higher temperature of 275*F. At that elevated temperature, any hotter and thinner oil is expected to experience a drop in Wear Protection Capability. This oil did have a 16% drop in capability. But, even at that elevated temperature, it produced an impressive 106,876 psi, which still kept this much hotter and thinner oil in the INCREDIBLE Wear Protection Category.
I also tested this oil to find out its onset of thermal breakdown, which was 280F."
This is the oil I would use on any turbo car just because it's dirt cheap and has a very low drop off when the heat is really on:
"11. 5W30 Quaker State Ultimate Durability, API SN, GM dexos 1 approved, synthetic (gold bottle) = 113,377 psi
zinc = TBD
phos = TBD
moly = TBD
This was the latest current version of this oil when tested at the end of 2015. The psi value of this oil, which came from testing it at the normal operating test temperature of 230*F, put it in the INCREDIBLE Wear Protection Category.
However, I went on to also test this oil at the much higher temperature of 275*F. At that elevated temperature, any hotter and thinner oil is expected to experience a drop in Wear Protection Capability. But, this oil only had a very small 3.7% drop in capability. And even at that elevated temperature, it produced an extremely impressive 109,211 psi, which still kept this much hotter and thinner oil in the INCREDIBLE Wear Protection Category."
This is what I'd run on all of the family daily drivers, including my G35C which are currently older than 10yrs old 100,000mi. It currently outranks Valvoline HM and Castrol HM 5W-30 and is cheaper than them as well. I will stick to 5,000mi OCI upon recommendation by said author about ALL oils:
"30. 5W30 Pennzoil High Mileage Vehicle, API SN, conventional = 102,402 psi
High Mileage oils are formulated for older engines with over 75,000 miles on them. And High Mileage oils include “Seal Swell” chemicals to help reduce oil leakage in those older engines.
zinc = TBD
phos =TBD
moly = TBD"
Per his notes, i wouldn't use a high mileage oil unless you've got leakage through rubber seals (not ring blow-by) as he says, they contain seal swellers and that's not recommended if you don't need it.
Technically the non HM version of the same oil should be fine, but his testing should show that.
Per his notes, i wouldn't use a high mileage oil unless you've got leakage through rubber seals (not ring blow-by) as he says, they contain seal swellers and that's not recommended if you don't need it.
Technically the non HM version of the same oil should be fine, but his testing should show that.
Yea, I've used both Castrol GTX 5W-30, then the HM 5W-30 on my G35. Next change might be just basic GTX or this Pennzoil HM 5W-30. I'm still not sure. The GTX HM bottle claims it's better for catalytic converters if zinc is lowered. Not sure how big of a deal it it though. The G is the only car that doesn't leak anything yet (knock on wood). The 4th gen Max has a small leak on the crank pulley, valve cover and the ES 330 has a tiny bit through the valve cover. Still hanging in there lol.
Is there anything up to date on oil analysis info on vq35's like the OP from 2007-2011. Formulas I'm sure have changed in a good amount of oils. I was leaning towards Castrol Syntec as my go to oil. I want to make my decision off of science, not just this because it's popular.
It's a good oil, but it was far too thin for my engine, burned it.
I have a used engine in my car, oil stays cleans but I have no idea how many miles are on it. I haven't had to add any oil and I'm at 2500 miles in 3 months but I just bought the car so I have no idea what oil is in it. It's not consuming any, were you running 5w30, if you were eating through it I say try the same brand but go up to 5w40 and that should be good. I know in 03 Ford moves to 5w20 over 5w30 for better Gas Mileage. I know that's Ford and we're Nissan but still oil I think is what the person wants. 5w20 for max gas mileage, 5w30 for lower mileage, DD, and 5w40 for high mileage or oil consumption with 5w30
DO NOT run diff oil in any engine! GL-5 rated lubricants are meant for gears under high pressure, not internal combustion engines!
The data currently available from this thread indicates Mobil 1 0-40 FS is still the benchmark for good protection in VQ engines. I use it in my '03 VQ35DE (street) and '07 VQ35HR (race) Zs. and you can consider it for both your '03 and '06 unless you're burning a LOT of oil
DO NOT run diff oil in any engine! GL-5 rated lubricants are meant for gears under high pressure, not internal combustion engines!
The data currently available from this thread indicates Mobil 1 0-40 FS is still the benchmark for good protection in VQ engines. I use it in my '03 VQ35DE (street) and '07 VQ35HR (race) Zs. and you can consider it for both your '03 and '06 unless you're burning a LOT of oil
So what is the recommendation IF you're burning a lot of oil? - TIA
One of the most informative threads i have read in a long time.
Not to deviate from the main topic but what is everyone using for filters?
Also, my 06 revup has 100k miles and sees 5-7 track days a year and it's not daily driven. I have been running M1 0w-40 but have been considering a thicker oil for better protection since I live in Southern California and specially in my area it can be 120 degrees in the summer. I was looking at the 5w-50 and 15-50 oils. I have not seen much data on these oils ON the VQ engine that sees track use. Does anyone recommend the 50 weights in my case and weather conditions over the thin 0w-40?
06-08-2016, 12:03 PM
). Switched to a Mobil 1 M1-110 filter and will compare the two on the next change.
- TIA
