I try to get this installed tonight. I'm having vaccum issues with the PCV line. I have to get to that first, then I'll get to the catch can and take pics after I'm done...

 

You are correct. I didn't prime the cooler. I wasn't aware this had to be done. What would you suggest to rectify this? Also, what are the negative impacts of not removing the trapped air?

 

Honestly, I wouldn't worry about it. It would be a little noisier, but I don't see it being a huge issue.

Catch can looks nice. Man, that stuff is pricey, though. I can't wait to see pics of your car with the modified front end.

Will

 

Thanks for the compliments. I stickly show this vehicle and didn't want to go FI, so I figured an ARC build would be the only way to compete with the FI guys(point wise) at the shows.

As far as the trapped air, perhaps it will release upon my next oil change. we'll see.

Val

 

Very professional very nice build, I like!

 

Thank you...

 

damn vo...nice looking project you have on your hands...good luck with the rest of it

 

arc oil cooler and arc strut bar or F/I

 

Thanx man...

 

Stuck between a rock and a hard place...

 

Last night's job wasn't too difficult. As usual, the instructions had bad Engrish but were still better than the instructions for the oil cooler. After laying down drop clothes I began the first step to installation. You have to remove the intake pipe and hose that connects to the bottom of the intake pipe. The other end of the hose connects to a fitting under the throttle body. Here's a few pics.

The yellow circles indicate where the stock hose was connected to. I've also included a picture of that hose. These 2 fittings are where the ARC tubing will connect.

Notice I removed the stock filter box also. It makes the job alot easier.

 

Here's what the it looks like after the 2 ARC hoses are attached. Notice the hose that attaches to the fitting under the throttle body gets wrapped around the backside of the plenum.

Another thing to be aware of, is when routing the hose that attaches to the instake pipe. It has to make a sharp curve in order to get to the front of the block. I've included pics to illustrate how I made my bend. Make sure not to crimp this hose...

 

The last hose that gets attached to the block is the PCV hose.
After removing the engine cover, you remove the stock hose that feeds the PCV valve to the intake manifold. The smallest ARC hose attaches to the PCV valve, then you cap off the intake manifold fitting with the nipple provided in the ARC package.

By the way, this is where I had my vaccumm leak as previously stated. The car is idling smooth now.

 

After all the hoses are attached you can mount the catch can then re-install the intake tube in reverse order you took it out.

The catch can is attached to the radiator with one screw and a cip on the bottom of the can, which you can't see in the pic. It's a really snug fit.

 

Bling ballin!

 

After alittle metal polish, the engine cover was ready to go back on. I didn't reattach the strut bar because the new one should arrive today. I'll install it tonight or tommorow and post new pics.

 

Can someone tell me where to get some of this high temp tape that goes on the under side of the engine cover? The original one is wearing out bad..

 

 

After a long 5 month wait, this baby has made it's way across the Pacific Ocean into my little hands. Marty @ Injected Performance is the man! He's responsible for many of my parts over the years. He's always prompt and stays on top of things, making sure to give me curtesy calls when my parts arrive. I should have this thing installed in no time tonight since the OEM strut bar has already been removed. I'll snap more pics after installation, probably tomorrow night.

 

So for the catch can, the two ports for the valve cover (driver side and passenger side) get attached to the INLET port of the catch can and then the intake tube is attached to the single OUTLET port of the catch can?