RPMs Increase, But Speed Doesn't At First
 

I have a 6-speed manual 2007 350Z. About 35K miles.

In the higher gears (4, 5 and 6), when I accelerate the RPMs increase but the speed takes a few seconds to increase... at which point the RPMs decrease and level off.

The problem seems to be worsening.

Any ideas?

I plan on taking it in for service, but it'd be great to have an idea of the problem before going in there.

Thanks,
Scotty

slipping clutch

+1

time for an upgrade :thumbup:

Welcome. Few if any problems are unique and have not been addressed. Explanation of and testing for "slipping clutch" is a common subject. Read. Learn.

+2

Your car will soon feel like new with a new clutch

thanks, all.

should i have it fixed at the dealer or a mechanic?

also, about how much should i expect to pay?

thanks a lot. it'll be great to not go into this blind.

Dont fix, upgrade your clutch son. This is the perfect opportunity/excuse to mod!

Take to a trusted mechanic, dealer will rape.

OK, about how much should I expect to spend?

http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/cus...asp?PartID=454

+ install

great, thanks very much for your help.

Do alot of research before choosing a clutch and fly. Make sure you get the right one. For driveability, noise, and a suitable clutch for your specific car.
If your car is stock, dont get some crazy track clutch. It will make the car harder to drive daily. Light fly's arent weighted to quiet down the tranny. So if you buy a light one, the tranny will make the dreaded "chatter".
If your car is stock and you dont plan on modding it just buy an Exedy OEM clutch and a OEM or Nismo fly. The nismo is like 19lbs and wont be too noisy, but will add performance. Have it installed by a trust worthy shop. Doesnt have to be Nissan.
I have a n/a full bolt on Z with an Exedy stage 1 clutch and Fidanza 13.5lb fly for comparisson.
Hope this helps you out!

at 35K miles, and being a "good driver" (not overly aggressive with the clutch, shifting when the clutch is all the way down, a short commute to work, etc.), should i expect to replace the flywheel as well? just trying to understand if i should expect to pay $500 for the clutch kit w/out the flywheeel or $1K with the flywheel.

thanks, all.

You'll probably want to replace your flywheel and clutch. It's usually both worn. Plus, would be nice to rid yourself of the DMF.

Also, seeing as you're running an 07, I'd stick with Exedy or Southbend's bearing cap with any 03 to 06 Z aftermarket clutches. Or go with stock. Just be aware the stock flywheel is about $1000 and an aftermarket one is about $500.

Suggest you read up on clutches in the VQ35HR section before buying.

Shop around if you can on here or on your local internet classifieds. I found what you need in 08' for like $500.. It was a OEM Exedy and Fidanza fly for like $450cdn.. Then I sold the OEM and bought a Stage 1. So I paid like $800 or so for a new clutch and fly. I didnt have it installed at a Nissan dealer and it went fine. Just find the right shop.
It is recommended that you change the fly. Do research... Every issue has been covered on here. Go to the search engine that you can access by clicking discussion forums, then search. Everything I think of I type in there and learn up!

You wore out your clutch @ 35k? Something's up if you're not driving aggressively imo... are you original owner?

turns out it's the transition (which is under warranty), not the clutch. but i can buy the clutch and have them replace it while everything's taken apart anyway... and not pay labor (as that's covered by the warranty).

you mean the transmission?

i doubt that is the correct diagnosis. Your transmission isnt going to slip like you described.

yeah, sorry, i meant transmission. i'm not that dumb, just wrote that way too quickly. :-)

interesting re: what you say about the tranny. although this seemingly will work in my favor as since that's under warranty, i won't have to pay labor for replacing the clutch (as they'll already be taking things apart under warranty anyway). so it seems i should save $500-$700 on labor and only have to pay for the clutch. so unless they charge me twice as much for the clutch, it's a win.

I agree, it doesn't sound like the trans. If the clutch is being replaced in the process then I don't really see an issue.