VQ motor will not fire up, HELP!!!
 

My motor will crank healthy but will not fire up.
It is a stock 2003 .. The car was parked for a week and then when restarting there was a whirring sound like the starter not engaging.
I charged up the battery even though it was new.
Now it cranks but nothing happens.
I had a "mechanic" look at it. He found codes referring to the TPS only.
But that should not prevent the star from firing.
We tried shooting some starting fluid but nothing happens.

I really do not wish to haul it to the dealer.
Any one in South Florida knows a good tech for these cars?
Your input will be appreciated..

Anything else prompt this problem or was it starting and running fine before it was down for a week?

Please use the term crank right. You mean to say the motor turns over but does not crank. Other than that odd problem, have you hit anything in the road lately that could of hit the crank sensor?

Nothing was done to the motor. Stock trim.
It started and ran fine up to this point.

The starter turns over the motor very strongly.
It does not fire leading me to think it is ignition related ...
The battery is new.
I tried 2 keys.

Time to start checking for spark and injector pulse.

Do you hear the fuel pump running as the key is turned through ON to START? If the car has been sitting for more than several minutes, you should hear the pump running in the back of the car for a couple seconds as it builds up pressure in the fuel system.

I can hear the pump ..all plastics are removed.
I used starting fluid with no result.
I even tried the ecu off a base..
I will look at the plugs and injectors tomorrow.
Shame ...as the motor has less than 1k original miles..

It's crazy that you have this problem.

I just purchased my Used 2006 350Z Convertible Touring yesterday. I got out of work this evening here in Philadelphia and seeing how it is particularly cold tried to start my car up. It would turn over, but it would not start. I did this for 3 attempts when it finally ignited on the 3rd try.

This has got me terribly worried.

The car has 62,000 miles on it (automatic, don't hate I enjoy the automatic).

If you find out any more information, please definitely let me know because I'm worried that there's something wrong with the crank sensor. I owned a 2004 G35 Coupe before this and it never seem to give me problems.

:dunno:

I also have the G coupe auto and a 2006 ZR auto.
DD is a 2007 Z coupe 6 speed.

I changed the sensors on this 03 track. Issue remains.
Problem is I never use the car. I would start the motor regularly and drive around my block when it is warmed up.

It has all 2007 inner panels and 18/19 wheels,bulge hood etc. Mileage is 980.

which sensors did you change?? i would pull the crank sensor from the tranny and just swap it as a first step since you have an extra hanging around.

So I went to the stealership which I bought the car from. The guy literally told me the reason it wouldn't start and only crank (which I replicated in front of him) was because of the immobilizer.

I was sitting there thinking, "What the ****". These guys are complete idiots. I was already in the car, after using the key FOB to unlock.

I changed all 3 sensors so far.

One I find out the issue I am considering using it as a parts car...

So did changing the sensors help with the issue in regards to starting the car?

nope!!
no luck with the BCM either.
I will have a tech look at it this week.
Since the motor only has 980 miles I may transfer to my G coupe.

My 03 auto touring pass side cam sensor started throwing codes ...

If I have a NATS issue, will the motor fire and then shut off...or just not fire?

get an obd II on it (advance auto does it for free). if it shows problems with nats... you got problems. i took mine to a couple of shops that couldnt figure it out.. i ended sending my ecu to Fever Racing in Tampa, FL. it costed me 500 but they deleted NATS, Gov, and changed the rev limiter to a higher rpm. i told them what i have done to my car and they tuned my ecu... they shipped it back to me the same day they got it, so it took 3 days total.. when i plugged it in she fired up.. this is the only way to do it with out a massive headache if it is NATS.

new key will cost 180.. but that may not be the problem. i wish i had this advice...

http://www.zfever.com/ :bowdown:

you have the option to just reflash and delete NATS for 400.

That is an option I will keep in mind.

I borrowed the NATS amplifier, BCM and ECU off other Z's but the issue remains.
I checked all fuses.
I reset the keys each time.
I tried the unlock procedure for the ECU.
I tried another IDPM/ER box.

Replaced the original stuff and reset one key,, no resolution.
I had cleared all codes in the beginning before using the OBD2 scanner,
I had a mechanic scan again and he came up with TPS codes only.

However, I scrolled back through the code readings and saw the P1411 and P1412 which refers to NATS I believe.

try buying anothr key... i did.... may be in valet mode.. nissan is the only place to get your key reset to your ignition.

do you have more than one key.. if so try that..??

some obd II scanners can eliminate the codes temporarily but they will come back..

(i dont think you can swap ecu w nats like that. be carefull. if you do it 3-4 times it will lock out your ecu.. then the car needs to get a toe to nissan..

The first thing I tried was the second key.
I am not sure where my valet key migrated.
I have a key programmer and a separate TPMS programmer so I can switch wheels whenever I want.
There is a manual unlock procedure for the ECU.