Raised hood - Angles - Under hood temps?
 

I had been wanting to do this for a while and had the aluminum angled shims too...but just hadn't gotten around to it....:dunno:

Raised the hood 1/2" at the windshield to exhaust out heat from the engine bay:
Attachment 428952

Angled aluminum shim:
Attachment 428953
Had my local machine shop fabricate them for me........

I know there was discussion on removing the rear plastics (chebosto posted temp drops)........anyone else have pics of this?

Ive seen washers and hard plastic nylon spacers, but I dont like how weak the hood is at that point already.....is why i went with tapered shims....

hood closes and latches/releases just as well as before, no adjustments needed...

I plan on taking temp readings this weekend...
-J

I've witnessed this mod done on many of my friend's honda's civic's, del sol's eg's, etc at the track. They claimed, it makes a noticeable difference. Let us know what are your results please. :thumbup:

I may try that, but they might have a rule change were i can run a vented CF hood next year.

I seem to recall someone on here a long time ago selling "hood spacers" for just this purpose. Got flamed pretty hard but swore by the reduction in temp.

LOL........ya i know the ricer image it portrays, but I'm thinking ill be fine as my car isn't a street car...

-J

sorry guys, didnt get too...track was cut short today...

see post 74 here:
https://my350z.com/forum/meet-ups-ev...irie-tx-4.html

Ill take temps next event..
-J

I've used spacers - didnt do much on road course, at drag strip it helped slightly (primarily during staging)... On road course I determined it to be pointless, at constant speed it isnt going to lower temps enough to make a difference and my concern was affecting aerodynamics (as minute as it may be)...

Motordyne used to sell them - hit up Tony, that's where I got mine.

Here's a pic (kinda hard to see, I dont have any close-ups... If I can find them (the actual spacers), I'll post pics later.

Since this track day I've had a hood cowl molded it to better address temps. I dont use the spacers anymore.

*edit, I data logged temps with Cipher

Attachment 428954

How about cutting these and put a mesh there :

Good info, I was thinking about this, I do mostly road course, but if there are no significant gains then it's not worth it.

I did this back in the day when I had an s13 running an sr20...I have a temp gauge inside the engine bay at the firewall and with this mod (though we used to put like 4-7 shims, so it would stick out a lot) it would read about 5-13 degrees cooler than without it (I kept a log book of track/drift days) - not that great but still better than it was. Also for long drives in the heat it will make the temp gauge in the cluster drop a little, which is cool.

On the Z however I would say that with an upgraded setup I wouldn't even bother doing it. On mine i have a mishimoto thermo and hoses - after I changed my antifreeze and the temps dropped below 50degrees the car threw a code saying it was out of temp tolerance or something of the sort - nothing is wrong but it still throws the code, on warm days the code goes away - lol. The Z has good enough cooling, unless its 100+ and your at the track stock setup, I wouldn't recommend it.

tx drifting, july 100 plus easy.........

-J

your coolant temps being too low and the resultant CEL is your indicator that something is wrong. The engine is designed to run at a certain temperature, running above or below that range is not beneficial, and actually detrimental. Datalogs would show this. What Jason's post here is to lower underhood temps

Had the code deleted and it didn't come back till it was below 50 degrees. I am assuming its having to do with either the osiris tune or the mods....either way no issues with the car and like I said when its warmer light turns off.

Again, the fact that you are getting the code tells you the ecu is not happy with the colder thermostat. The car does run differently when the light is triggered, I spent a long time datalooging it on my own car. Had the same issue with my car years and years ago with the NISMO t stat. Since I am not road racing the car in 100+ degree weather, I simply went back to stock, problem solved. A colder thermostat is only an effective mod if the conditions warrant it. Otherwise it doesn't help the car run any "cooler", it simply opens sooner. Useless on a street car and nearly useless unless its a full out race car being used in very hot temps.

This has been an informative thread and I hope you dont mind me bringing back.

I have been thinking about getting the hood shims to release trapped air better. Reason for doing this is cause, when the temp get high during normal driving, 98 or high outside temp, the car will start to over heat when I have the a/c on. With the a/c off, it is fine. I just upgraded my cooling system with mishimoto radiator, thermo, hoses, and dual fans. It helped but still the engine gets hot when I run it for a least 30 mins or more on those hot days. I do have a Vortech s/c so their is extra strain on the engine.

Thus, do you guy thing that shimming up the hood to release hot air would make any difference?

Thanks

^ its a simple and easy thing to check and do......

just go get a cheap thermo gun and check your temps.......then raise the hood and check the temps again........see how much it helps you.........

http://www.harborfreight.com/media/c...image_5326.jpg
http://www.harborfreight.com/non-con...ter-96451.html

It will...how much is the question...

-J

I was looking at the hood a while back and contemplating modifying the rear skeleton of the hood to let hot air out. The hood hangs over the wiper cowl like it would be a cowl type hood.

So I started experimenting some with ideas. Instead of cutting, I wanted to do something semi-reversible.

I removed the rear weatherstripping from the plastic stuff at the rear of the engine bay. Then I put a bright LED flashlight on the pass. side engine bay. I shut the hood and got in the car. I could see quite a bit of light.

I opened the hood again and using a box cutter, I trimmed the plastic lip that the weatherstripping attaches to. After cutting 2/3 of it away, I looked at the rear of the hood with the light under the hood again. I saw a good bit of light coming through.

I assume that this will help with getting hot air out. The only drawback could be water but there is a good deal of room between the engine and firewall. I also left 100% of the plastic lip near the throttle body just in case. As far as the rear of the hood overhangs plus forward motion, I don't see rain water being an issue.

I am now considering installing a small fan at the rear engine bay to pull the hot air to the rear of the bay and out the "cowl." There really isn't a lot of room for anything like that but I may try and rig something up.

cool, post pics......let us know what you do..

-J

how much shipped to 92603?

price on a set shipped to 29316?