Review of RJM adjustable clutch pedal bracket
12-07-2011, 10:17 PM
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Review of RJM adjustable clutch pedal bracket
I installed RJM adjustable clutch pedal bracket a few weeks ago. There is a whole thread dedicated about this clutch in g35driver.com (http://g35driver.com/forums/interior...l-bracket.html) but not in here. So I decided to make one for the members who are interested in this product 
I'm sure everyone knows about the factory clutch feeling. Mine was just like everyone elses. It was almost impossible to roll on a traffic without giving a gas (car would shutter so violently it felt like i was hurting the car
)
When I found about the new RJM clutch bracket, I wanted to become the test member and have ordered one. Ryan @ RJM Performance was cool and we had a great communication
The new clutch bracket installation was pretty much straight forward. Instructions can be found on the homepage (http://www.rjmperformance.com/) which has lots of pictures and detailed instructions.
It took me about 2 hours including breaks to put the new bracket on. You really need basic tools, but it would help the process if you have a nice tools. my roommate is a mechanic so that was a plus for me
After installation was complete, I briefly drove around the block and the first thing that I noticed was the engagement point of the clutch. My clutch engaged at about 1/2 point of travel which was a great inprovement over my factory set up which was 1" off the top. Also, the pedal became so soft I thought I was driving my friend's 90s Toyota tacoma.
The cool thing about this mod is that clutch is "adjustable." The new mod was great but I didn't like the "softness" and "1/2 engagement" so I played with it to find my sweet spot. After a few fix and few runs, I found a sweet spot. Now my clutch engages at 2/3 clutch travel, and it is reasonably stiff. Not too much different from factory feeling, but a great improvement over the factory feeling.
I would recommend this mod to those who would like to improve their Z's drivability. And lastly, Ryan is cool guy to work with
I'm sure everyone knows about the factory clutch feeling. Mine was just like everyone elses. It was almost impossible to roll on a traffic without giving a gas (car would shutter so violently it felt like i was hurting the car
)When I found about the new RJM clutch bracket, I wanted to become the test member and have ordered one. Ryan @ RJM Performance was cool and we had a great communication
The new clutch bracket installation was pretty much straight forward. Instructions can be found on the homepage (http://www.rjmperformance.com/) which has lots of pictures and detailed instructions.
It took me about 2 hours including breaks to put the new bracket on. You really need basic tools, but it would help the process if you have a nice tools. my roommate is a mechanic so that was a plus for me
After installation was complete, I briefly drove around the block and the first thing that I noticed was the engagement point of the clutch. My clutch engaged at about 1/2 point of travel which was a great inprovement over my factory set up which was 1" off the top. Also, the pedal became so soft I thought I was driving my friend's 90s Toyota tacoma.
The cool thing about this mod is that clutch is "adjustable." The new mod was great but I didn't like the "softness" and "1/2 engagement" so I played with it to find my sweet spot. After a few fix and few runs, I found a sweet spot. Now my clutch engages at 2/3 clutch travel, and it is reasonably stiff. Not too much different from factory feeling, but a great improvement over the factory feeling.
I would recommend this mod to those who would like to improve their Z's drivability. And lastly, Ryan is cool guy to work with
12-07-2011, 10:28 PM
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I ended up installing mine last weekend. Installation was super easy. All you need are basic tools, which made it a breeze to install. 1st to 2nd gear is just awesome now.
The adjustability is probably the nicest part. There is a nice range of adjustability that you can dial in.
As Binder said in the other thread, it is the best clutch mod, and well worth the money. /thread
Also, as said before, customer support/service was awesome. Ryan answered questions I had before I even asked them. Like a boss.
The adjustability is probably the nicest part. There is a nice range of adjustability that you can dial in.
As Binder said in the other thread, it is the best clutch mod, and well worth the money. /thread
Also, as said before, customer support/service was awesome. Ryan answered questions I had before I even asked them. Like a boss.
Last edited by 350XTCz; 12-07-2011 at 10:31 PM. Reason: Adding stuff
12-08-2011, 07:43 AM
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Yes, i have an OS giken twin disk. It was so horrible with ZERO ability to slip.
Since i put this on the clutch feels like a normal clutch. The way i had it setup the first time it actually made my clutch way too soft for me. It was softer than my honda accord. I like to feel that i have a strong clutch so i prefer it to feel stiffer. 15 minutes to adjust it and found the right pressure for me.
It also reduced the travel considerably. No more 1 foot travel and bringing your knee into the dash to release the clutch. Mine starts engaging about 3/4" off the floor now which is like every other vehicle i've driven.
Also, It took me about 45 minutes total time to do this swap. I'm mechanically inclined though. Just as a comparison on time to perform from the aspect of basic user verses mechanic.
I think this is mod should be the first thing done with either a heavy pressure plate single to get the pedal pressure back to normal or the harsh engaging twin/triple disks.
I will be installing my triple disk carbonetics soon.
Since i put this on the clutch feels like a normal clutch. The way i had it setup the first time it actually made my clutch way too soft for me. It was softer than my honda accord. I like to feel that i have a strong clutch so i prefer it to feel stiffer. 15 minutes to adjust it and found the right pressure for me.
It also reduced the travel considerably. No more 1 foot travel and bringing your knee into the dash to release the clutch. Mine starts engaging about 3/4" off the floor now which is like every other vehicle i've driven.
Also, It took me about 45 minutes total time to do this swap. I'm mechanically inclined though. Just as a comparison on time to perform from the aspect of basic user verses mechanic.
I think this is mod should be the first thing done with either a heavy pressure plate single to get the pedal pressure back to normal or the harsh engaging twin/triple disks.
I will be installing my triple disk carbonetics soon.
12-08-2011, 07:47 AM
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very interested... i bought a cd009 trans in hopes it would help my shifting.. any issues w the clutch riding and burnng out/slipping? Or damage to the master cylinder with this mod?
installation doesnt sound hard, but finding someone who knows how to adjust it well is my concern.
installation doesnt sound hard, but finding someone who knows how to adjust it well is my concern.
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12-08-2011, 11:19 AM
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^^^ agreed..
im just hoping this ( along w my new cd009 trans i picked up) will help my 1-2 shifts.. its hella weird right now.. takes the fun out of driving.
Yeah the last thing id want is a 500hp plus car on a jwt clutch with a short pedal haha.. talk about pita to drive.
Just hoping it can help w that 1-2 shift ...and to be able to adjust the feel when i go to the ACT 6 puck or whatever i decide when i want to run the E85 map and really ghost.
I need another car to drive before i get into all that tho.
Im working on that too.
im just hoping this ( along w my new cd009 trans i picked up) will help my 1-2 shifts.. its hella weird right now.. takes the fun out of driving.
Yeah the last thing id want is a 500hp plus car on a jwt clutch with a short pedal haha.. talk about pita to drive.
Just hoping it can help w that 1-2 shift ...and to be able to adjust the feel when i go to the ACT 6 puck or whatever i decide when i want to run the E85 map and really ghost.
I need another car to drive before i get into all that tho.
Im working on that too.
12-08-2011, 02:46 PM
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My clutch releases near the top as well.
12-08-2011, 05:29 PM
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very interested... i bought a cd009 trans in hopes it would help my shifting.. any issues w the clutch riding and burnng out/slipping? Or damage to the master cylinder with this mod?
installation doesnt sound hard, but finding someone who knows how to adjust it well is my concern.
installation doesnt sound hard, but finding someone who knows how to adjust it well is my concern.
12-08-2011, 07:29 PM
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To clarify a few points on these brackets here is what they "Adjust"
The main feature of the kits is the AFP Slider. It directly adjusts the fulcrum point of the pedal arm, changing the amount of leverage it has over the master cylinder.
As you know if you grab a longer handled ratchet like a torque wrench you can apply a huge force at the bolt with very little force at the end of the handle.
Same principle applies here. Shorten the fulcrum and it increases the leverage the pedal has to push the MasterCylinder which in turn actuates the clutch diaphragm.
This same principle makes the window of engagement wider by reducing the total travel of the master cylinder while maintaining the same travel of the pedal. This makes the clutch pedal feel less sensitive or touchy and makes the car much easier to drive smoothly.
The clutch pedal getting stiffer/softer is a side effect of widening or shortening the engagement window. Not the actual purpose of the Mod. These two things however are inevitably linked to pedal leverage.
With the stock pedal setup the engagement window feels about as wide as paper is thick. It's nearly impossible to smoothly control the clutch between the edge of the friction point and fully locked. You need control and finesse for awesome launches and nice smooth 1-2 shifts without the jerk that you get with the stock setup. That jerk is because the stock clutch setup grabs abruptly right past the friction point and in stock form you can't control it or only manage to do so sometimes. You can learn to live with it but everyone says these cars are harder to drive because the engagement window is so SHORT compared to other vehicles.
Widening the engagement window and giving the driver more foot control makes every single aspect of driving the 6MT easier. From stop&go traffic, hard launches, those formerly rough 1-2's.
Next the Fully locked point is still at the top of the pedal. There is no way to have a hydraulic clutch setup that doesn't act that way. You can lower the pedal but it's still fully engaged when it's at the top of its stroke. Disengagement for fast shifts starts right at the top same as always so no slow shifting required, in fact I can power shift it at 6k 1st thru 4th barking the tires on every shift with no issues.
What does change is the engagement window getting wider, so the friction point moves lower WHILE the fully locked position stays at the top.
This lowers the friction point closer to floor WITHOUT simply lowering the pedal and reducing the overall travel.
The main brackets and the adjustable upper mount are all only there to support the movement of the fulcrum point and to keep the clutch rod level to the master cylinder while moving the fulcrum up and down on the pedal arm. Otherwise if they were not changing the fulcrum would severely mess with the angle of the clutch rod with no way to straighten it out.
To my knowledge there is no factory vehicle or other pedal kits that allow the physical fulcrum of the pedal to be modified by simply unlocking the slider and moving it up and down which COMPLETELY changes the characteristics of how these cars drive.
Hope that helps clear up some misconceptions without annoying the Mods. I tried to keep it about the mechanical theory behind it as much as possible.
As a side note I came down sick with the flu last week while my wife and I were out of town so I asked her to drive the G home for me. Now she’s driven stick for years and I used to let her drive my WhippleCharged 07’ Mustang GT/CS with a McLeod TwinDisk all the time without a second thought as she could handle it no problem. The G on the other hand I rarely ever let her drive it as she was horribly jerky and rough the handful of times a year she tried. Now fast forward to last week, she got in adjusted her seat and drove the G like a pro for 60Miles home and she hadn’t driven it more then 10miles in the past year. I was impressed and so was she! Enough said.
The main feature of the kits is the AFP Slider. It directly adjusts the fulcrum point of the pedal arm, changing the amount of leverage it has over the master cylinder.
As you know if you grab a longer handled ratchet like a torque wrench you can apply a huge force at the bolt with very little force at the end of the handle.
Same principle applies here. Shorten the fulcrum and it increases the leverage the pedal has to push the MasterCylinder which in turn actuates the clutch diaphragm.
This same principle makes the window of engagement wider by reducing the total travel of the master cylinder while maintaining the same travel of the pedal. This makes the clutch pedal feel less sensitive or touchy and makes the car much easier to drive smoothly.
The clutch pedal getting stiffer/softer is a side effect of widening or shortening the engagement window. Not the actual purpose of the Mod. These two things however are inevitably linked to pedal leverage.
With the stock pedal setup the engagement window feels about as wide as paper is thick. It's nearly impossible to smoothly control the clutch between the edge of the friction point and fully locked. You need control and finesse for awesome launches and nice smooth 1-2 shifts without the jerk that you get with the stock setup. That jerk is because the stock clutch setup grabs abruptly right past the friction point and in stock form you can't control it or only manage to do so sometimes. You can learn to live with it but everyone says these cars are harder to drive because the engagement window is so SHORT compared to other vehicles.
Widening the engagement window and giving the driver more foot control makes every single aspect of driving the 6MT easier. From stop&go traffic, hard launches, those formerly rough 1-2's.
Next the Fully locked point is still at the top of the pedal. There is no way to have a hydraulic clutch setup that doesn't act that way. You can lower the pedal but it's still fully engaged when it's at the top of its stroke. Disengagement for fast shifts starts right at the top same as always so no slow shifting required, in fact I can power shift it at 6k 1st thru 4th barking the tires on every shift with no issues.
What does change is the engagement window getting wider, so the friction point moves lower WHILE the fully locked position stays at the top.
This lowers the friction point closer to floor WITHOUT simply lowering the pedal and reducing the overall travel.
The main brackets and the adjustable upper mount are all only there to support the movement of the fulcrum point and to keep the clutch rod level to the master cylinder while moving the fulcrum up and down on the pedal arm. Otherwise if they were not changing the fulcrum would severely mess with the angle of the clutch rod with no way to straighten it out.
To my knowledge there is no factory vehicle or other pedal kits that allow the physical fulcrum of the pedal to be modified by simply unlocking the slider and moving it up and down which COMPLETELY changes the characteristics of how these cars drive.
Hope that helps clear up some misconceptions without annoying the Mods. I tried to keep it about the mechanical theory behind it as much as possible.
As a side note I came down sick with the flu last week while my wife and I were out of town so I asked her to drive the G home for me. Now she’s driven stick for years and I used to let her drive my WhippleCharged 07’ Mustang GT/CS with a McLeod TwinDisk all the time without a second thought as she could handle it no problem. The G on the other hand I rarely ever let her drive it as she was horribly jerky and rough the handful of times a year she tried. Now fast forward to last week, she got in adjusted her seat and drove the G like a pro for 60Miles home and she hadn’t driven it more then 10miles in the past year. I was impressed and so was she! Enough said.
12-08-2011, 07:50 PM
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My pedal isn't on the floor anyways. My clutch starts engaging down near the floor like it should. Before this my clutch didn't even START to grab until i was about 4" off the floor. That's not normal. I've only owned manual transmission cars my entire life and i've never had pedal travel like the **** nissan makes.
The clutch starts to drag about 3/4" off the floor and i can ease out into a smooth start without issues. Didn't affect me one bit racking through the gears. My clutch pedal is now just slightly above the height of my brake pedal. With the stock mechanism if i tried to move it down this far it wouldn't allow the clutch to fully disengage which wasn't good for the trans. I was tired of my clutch pedal being 2" above my brake pedal and my knee being up into the dash when i let the clutch out fully.
12-08-2011, 09:14 PM
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For all you military people, this makes driving around in your boots much easier. I don't look like a complete idiot anymore while driving around on base (with all the stupid speed bumps).
