The more I read the more confused I get... help with basics please
#1
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The more I read the more confused I get... help with basics please
I have posted before about planning to rebuild my VQ35DE, and I apreciate all the help I have recived. But it seems I'm getting more confused every day.
Ok, my plan is basic, I started just with the idea of making it as closer to new as possible. First I just bought an "engine gasket rebuild kit", then I realized I should change main and rod bearing so I'm about to get the set with thrustwashers, and also the piston ring set, so that I read that should be changed everytime an engine is rebuild. Now, watching some videos they said also the main bolts should always be changed when a rebuild.
Engine rebuild gasket set $300 (from Westcovin)
ACL 350Z Race Series Main & Rod Bearing Set w/ Thrust Washers $188 (conceptzperformance.com)
Wiseco Piston Ring Set $180 (conceptzperformance.com)
Nissan OEM 350Z Cylinder Head Bolt Kit - Z33 03-06 DE $55 (conceptzperformance.com)
What am I missing??? Please help!!!
I all this necesary??? When rebuilding an engine do I have to change valve stem seals and guides??? Should I do it now I it can wait???
The engine is only 27k, I know it doesn't needs a rebuild job, but it has to be done, my original engine is done and this is a donor engine, so I have to change all the guts of the engine inside my long block. The point is it has to be done. But I want to make it the best I can with obviously a budget.
So I have considered changeing all these, what else should I change??? What upgrades would be the best options???
If you had to choose between unorthodox pulleys and JWT springs what would you choose??? And if I change the springs, what else do I have to change??? (besides stem seals, I guess those are for sure, right???).
I know this is way to basic for most of you, but I'm trying to rebuild the engine with the best products I can afford.
What do you think about the brands, are they better than OEM???
Please, I really have read a lot about rebuilding the engine, but everytime I find more and more things that "should" be done.
PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!
Ok, my plan is basic, I started just with the idea of making it as closer to new as possible. First I just bought an "engine gasket rebuild kit", then I realized I should change main and rod bearing so I'm about to get the set with thrustwashers, and also the piston ring set, so that I read that should be changed everytime an engine is rebuild. Now, watching some videos they said also the main bolts should always be changed when a rebuild.
Engine rebuild gasket set $300 (from Westcovin)
ACL 350Z Race Series Main & Rod Bearing Set w/ Thrust Washers $188 (conceptzperformance.com)
Wiseco Piston Ring Set $180 (conceptzperformance.com)
Nissan OEM 350Z Cylinder Head Bolt Kit - Z33 03-06 DE $55 (conceptzperformance.com)
What am I missing??? Please help!!!
I all this necesary??? When rebuilding an engine do I have to change valve stem seals and guides??? Should I do it now I it can wait???
The engine is only 27k, I know it doesn't needs a rebuild job, but it has to be done, my original engine is done and this is a donor engine, so I have to change all the guts of the engine inside my long block. The point is it has to be done. But I want to make it the best I can with obviously a budget.
So I have considered changeing all these, what else should I change??? What upgrades would be the best options???
If you had to choose between unorthodox pulleys and JWT springs what would you choose??? And if I change the springs, what else do I have to change??? (besides stem seals, I guess those are for sure, right???).
I know this is way to basic for most of you, but I'm trying to rebuild the engine with the best products I can afford.
What do you think about the brands, are they better than OEM???
Please, I really have read a lot about rebuilding the engine, but everytime I find more and more things that "should" be done.
PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!
#4
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Why are you freaking out. Are you sure you can actually do this rebuild yourself? If you plan on going FI in the future, you might as well buy some new connecting rods since you have the engine apart and those are the weakest link. I dont know much about engine rebuilds, but Im assuming there's not much you NEED to change when doing it besides gaskets. And regarding the pulleys, I don't believe they do any sort of significant gains. Think of it this way; there is so much more rotating mass within the engine and the drivetrain. Upgrading to a lighter clutch, flywheel, wheels, etc, would make much more of a difference than pulleys. But by all means do it anyways! It couldn't do harm and you might get a few extra HP out of it. Just replace gaskets and whatever you feel like, because like you said, your engine only has 27k miles on it. that's not very old.
Last edited by GLRacing; 09-25-2012 at 08:30 AM.
#5
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Why do you NEED to rebuild it anyways? Just replace stem seals and whatever other seals you can find. You are unnecessarily rebuilding the engine, so you might as well unnecessarily replace everything you can afford to replace.....replace....replace......
is there an echo in here O_o
is there an echo in here O_o
Last edited by GLRacing; 09-25-2012 at 08:38 AM.
#6
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The more I read the more I'm confused...
Most the parts can be reused after inspecting it, complete rebuilding is for broke or 200k engines? A engine at 30k is fairly new! Call around to some local shops who do engine rebuilds doesn't matter what they mainly work on. Just call to get a run down of the process!
As far as what brand is better! Search the NA section!
Most the parts can be reused after inspecting it, complete rebuilding is for broke or 200k engines? A engine at 30k is fairly new! Call around to some local shops who do engine rebuilds doesn't matter what they mainly work on. Just call to get a run down of the process!
As far as what brand is better! Search the NA section!
#7
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actually it does alot of harm, they have no way to dampen harmonics and significantly reduce the life of your engine which is why pretty much everyone with a high power engine on these forums recommend fluidamper or the ati, personally i love my fluidamper. its doubly so if you switch to a lightweight flywheel since the dual mass flywheel is what is used to do a significant amount of dampening on the engine, the oem pulley only has a little bit of rubber to absorb harmonics.
Why are you freaking out. Are you sure you can actually do this rebuild yourself? If you plan on going FI in the future, you might as well buy some new connecting rods since you have the engine apart and those are the weakest link. I dont know much about engine rebuilds, but Im assuming there's not much you NEED to change when doing it besides gaskets. And regarding the pulleys, I don't believe they do any sort of significant gains. Think of it this way; there is so much more rotating mass within the engine and the drivetrain. Upgrading to a lighter clutch, flywheel, wheels, etc, would make much more of a difference than pulleys. But by all means do it anyways! It couldn't do harm and you might get a few extra HP out of it. Just replace gaskets and whatever you feel like, because like you said, your engine only has 27k miles on it. that's not very old.
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#8
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Thankyou very much guys, I'm not rebuilding the engine my self, I just want to make sure it is done as should. In Mexico I haven't heard of any mechanic specialized in VQ35 engines, and I don't want to relay only in what the mechanic says. And of course talking it to the dealer is way above my budget.
The reason I'm doing this is because my engine is about to reach the 100,000 miles, and a friend of mine who is into racing build his engine with almost everything new, so he is selling me rods, rod bearings, pistons, valves, valve springs, cams, etc., from this engine that had less than 27,000 miles. So I guess the guts from an engine 3/4 newer than mine should be in much better conditions. Really that's the only reason, an oportunity like this I have to take it, the price I'll pay is a joke.
Once again thanks for all the tips...
The reason I'm doing this is because my engine is about to reach the 100,000 miles, and a friend of mine who is into racing build his engine with almost everything new, so he is selling me rods, rod bearings, pistons, valves, valve springs, cams, etc., from this engine that had less than 27,000 miles. So I guess the guts from an engine 3/4 newer than mine should be in much better conditions. Really that's the only reason, an oportunity like this I have to take it, the price I'll pay is a joke.
Once again thanks for all the tips...
#9
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Is there something else wrong with the engine? Mileage alone is absolutely not a reason to rebuild an engine. Do you have bad gas mileage? Are you burning a lot of oil? Do you have oil in your coolant or vice-versa? These would be reasons to START looking into a complete rebuild. If you are on a budget I would try and fix whatever is specifically wrong with your engine. Rebuilding is the last resort.
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I think he stated that the engine he has in his car at the moment is over 100,000mi, and that the engine that has 27,000mi is a donor engine which he just has sitting around right now, and that he wants to replace everything before he swaps the older engine with the newer one. Amiright or amiright?
#11
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I think he stated that the engine he has in his car at the moment is over 100,000mi, and that the engine that has 27,000mi is a donor engine which he just has sitting around right now, and that he wants to replace everything before he swaps the older engine with the newer one. Amiright or amiright?
Sounds like his friend is the one with the lower mileage engine that had built internals. Now his friend is selling his stock internals to this guy with the engine with over 100k. Kinda makes no sense to do this.. If the car is running fine now, no need to replace internals with used internals of another engine unless putting forged internals in. I see this guy with a broke engine later on down the road..
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