ace32x

iTrader: (10)

money for money if your doing a cheap na build pick up a lq4 6.0L, or an lq9 6.0. throw a fast 102 on it port the heads and put a cam in it and youll be 450-470 ish wheel. if you want more than that you can always throw some boost or spray at it the stock blocks will hold 700 with out a hiccup. no need to blow 11k on an lsa. for 9500 you could have a 454 lsx and make 700 na with a brand new crate motor lol. or pick up a 376 lsx for 5500 and slap a procharger on it and make 1000 wheel.

Lightning Guy

iTrader: (8)

These guys do a lot of adapters and kits foe the CD009, might be worth reacing out to them?

http://collinsadapters.com/

midz350

iTrader: (4)

I don't know/talk to the owner of that Z.


I posted the link above. I know its for the 2JZ swap, but its the same work done in both.

Its not hard. You just need a machine shop close by.

Things you need:

1- LS A/T flexplate.
2- VQ clutch and flywheel.
3- A spacer between the flywheel and the flexplate and new bolts for the added length http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1361035093
4- LS/CD0009 adaptor plate.
5- Shortening the shifter. you can DIY or buy one already shortend.
6- You may need slave spacer and pilot spacer.
7- You may need to machine the inside of the housing to give you more space.

How it should look in the end. http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...0&d=1362963263

I might forget some things but as I said before, you will find all the info in that thread.

You can PM if you have any question.

crsracing19

link to page? if you ant post it can you pm me it please

QTB

iTrader: (9)

Couldn't you just use some sort of button clutch on the LS flex plate? It has to be way lighter than that monster. You'd just have to work out the spline configuration with the manufacture. I'd bet Tilton or Quarter Master clutches would make something happen if you gave them a call.

Dopavash

iTrader: (2)

From what I've been able to gather (and I am by no means any type of expert), if you're planning on doing this swap, here's what you need to decide on:

If you're looking for ultimate cheap and relative ease, LS1 is the way to go. However, not just any LS1 will do. You'll want one out of a GTO preferably, but a 99+ Fbody will work. Do not buy a 98 year model because the wiring is goofy. A late model Fbody Ls1 is preferable because they had the updated ls6 blocks with better oiling. Complete dropouts with tranny run 5500ish but with mid to high miles being common.

If you don't mind spending just a tad more, GTO LS2 is the way to go. LS2's are all pretty similar unlike LS1's which have all kinds of different features depending on year, etc. You can find these for somewhere around 6500ish and have low to mid miles. They have only slightly less power than an LS6 and supposedly a better torque curve.

A newer Camaro LS3 dropout if you're feeling moderately fancy. There's only a 30hp difference between these and the LS2, but you'll get the supposedly better TR6060 tranny. And the 10-11K price tag. Not worth it to me, but that's up to you. Not many of the mounting kits have accounted for the different trans so expect some difficulty there. Fueled has a solution that they worked up for a guy on the G35 forums.

If you're planning on making a big bore or FI screamer, the Iron block LQ motors are the way to go. They're less than 100lbs heavier, but many more safe options for boring or boosting. These are all over the place and cheap, but you'll spend some money on switching intakes and accessories and probably buying L92 heads, as is very common.


In my humble and moderately ignorant opinion, the LS2 GTO drop out with a Fueled racing kit is the way to go. The Sikky kit has the motor mounted way too far forward imo and forces you to do some goofy, glitchy crap with the shifter. Yes, you'll have to do just a bit of clearancing on the pre-firewall, but big deal. Couple of whacks with a shop hammer and you're there. Or get fancy and cut the pre-firewall out completely. Either way, the sikky kit pretty much negates FI options and takes some options off the table when it comes to radiators. Fueled hasn't had any complaints with Quality Control that I've seen either. Not the case with any of the other kit mfg. FR seems to have decent customer service too. The LS2 is the way to go because you can get 400hp out of the box and a low-miles package deal with all the right parts. It has the optimal accessories setup, it has the correct transmission configuration to use the FR kit easily. And its only about a grand more expensive.

This is all coming from a guy who hasn't done this swap before and won't for quite awhile, so take it for what its worth. I encourage correction from those more wise than me.

Dopavash

iTrader: (2)

Also, I wanted to add that I think keeping the stock Z tranny is unnecessarily tedious. The T56 is a proven design and fits rather well to the Z. Selling the CD009 you have now will make up the cost of buying a t56 and you won't have to mess with a crazy custom setup between the motor and transmission. It might save you some headache with clutch conversion stuff but I really don't think its going to save you much headache over all and no cash savings to boot.

But hey man, do what you like. I ain't gonna knock it.

2004Black350z

iTrader: (37)

Thanks for the post. It appears after several conversations with Bobby@CIN iv went against it. Won't pass inspection is the biggest thing. I can always jump through dmv hoops for a waiver every year and spend 300$ every year but if dmv ever gets curious and checks my car I will then have a tag less track car. Since I drive my z maybe twice a week I think I'm going to go vortech. Just gotta find a used one for 3k or less. Hope this thread helps some other members if their considering this.

ace32x

iTrader: (10)

something to consider i dont know if its the same there or not, but up here you can register it as a vehicle that gets parked on the street but doesnt run which means it requires tags. in their system there is no way to check that its just a yes or no for emisions so it gets a yes but the expiration is every 6 months vs 1 year. something to look into maybe

Skrilla

iTrader: (15)

To make big power from a stock Z reliably means the motor will be pulled one way or another...I think you have accepted that lol.
I've found the VQ engine to be reliable in the examples I've come across but I have seen big issues, I'll tell you about it. What I have found with VQ's is the lack of break in on fresh blocks. Really tough on VQ to boost on a fresh build, the stock main bearings are poor. Rebuilt with better bearings should also include break in prior to boost (which in all likelihood is prior to turbo install). I've found it’s hard for Z owners (for whatever reason) to do this and those are the majority of the failures I've come across.
I've found sleeves are not needed even on our open deck but of course we need rods/pistons.
-so rebuild plus break in plus turbo, the turbo will be the biggest factor in pricing, and you don’t have to worry as much about electronics/smog/inspection legalities of the switch, however all that may be easier nowadays
So lots of pluses there
-5.7's are a dime a dozen in SoCal I first saw 5.7's in Miata’s in '98 they are easy engines and (big big "and" here) LOTS of people can make them fast, the tranny is epic etc. Even though the motor itself is common trust me starting up a Z with a "vanilla" 5.7 is unique and pretty ferocious, see this in person and you will know. Buying the engine tranny possible CAM alone is about equal. Each state has their own methodology for swaps. In Cali hit a referee smog station with the swap and your car is legal all day regardless of what is under the hood so long as the motor is the same year or greater than the car you pretty much can't go wrong. Your money will be on the swap itself and getting the electronics to your satisfaction. Going LS I think has even more pluses and I almost went this route, but...the price for me wasn't cheaper...not at all. I built motors for a living that’s where I saved big...
...I ran 70k on my stock block DE on a turbo from a member here putting down between 408 and 430WHP over the years. When I moved to Texas I pulled the turbo to part out the Z and sell it but god**mnit I couldn't let it go. I picked up rods, cp pistons and spare block for $900 shipped in the last year. I can go 600+ on that combo.
The extra turbo weight which is like 100+ equals what an LS swap brings. I drive my Z a lot, it’s not my daily but I've had it since 12k-ish miles and now it’s 110k, I don’t have the time to worry about my ac/tags/electronics/legalities but all motor 600whp from a 5.7+ liters would sure be easier HP. I run Osiris tuner luckily it cuts down on a lot on extra electronics. With boost all it takes is a sensor failure at the wrong time and boom goes the dynamite. The LS swap once dialed in me can only imagine is pretty damn bullet proof. So for me it was price.
A block/tranny/kit/wiring/electronics are between 3k and 6k+. If you do the work and get it right, it will still cost more, but ownership cost i think would be cheaper, since you are at this stage go simple like Ace32x said

Quote:

Originally Posted by ace32x

money for money if your doing a cheap na build pick up a lq4 6.0L, or an lq9 6.0. throw a fast 102 on it port the heads and put a cam in it and youll be 450-470 ish wheel. if you want more than that you can always throw some boost or spray at it the stock blocks will hold 700 with out a hiccup. no need to blow 11k on an lsa. for 9500 you could have a 454 lsx and make 700 na with a brand new crate motor lol. or pick up a 376 lsx for 5500 and slap a procharger on it and make 1000 wheel.

Again for me best case scenario LS swap vs. $900+tuning was far cheaper and faster to complete but if you have the lil extra money go with the big boy swap