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Well, an update to the ongoing saga of the 350Z.
OBD tool came in and will not link to car, keeps getting data link error, no hook up. I took it to my wife'e BMW and it connected and did exactly like it was supposed to. My buddy and I have hooked 3 different scanners to the 350Z and all the same type error, ie: no data link.
We decided to try the method of checking spark on plugs. First I took the #1 harness connector off and hooked it to a known Good coil pack, with a good plug inserted into it. When my Buddy, and later myself, held the plug body against the ground and turned on the switch the plug fired 1 time and then on cranking it would never fire again. To attempt to duplicate this I hooked the cable back to #1 and removed the cable plug from # 4 cylinder and when the plug body was grounded, we could never get any spark at all. So it appears that the only spark is on the #1 cylinder, and only one time at switch on, not cranking, and that is where I am now.. Any ideas would be appreciated !!
TI have the negative battery cable off until I start after Dr's appointment in the am, When, after reading a lot, I went out to the car and checked the small red alarm light, it was blinking normal, then when I turned the key on, not start, the light would go solid on. This may not be anything, but I had rather tell you than you needing the info and not have it. I tried repeatedly to get the OBD reader to hook up with the OBD port, I have tried a Kobra KB 30, innova 3120b, and a innova 3030. None would all just gave "failed".
I can locate the ECM relay on the large fuse box in the battery cavity but for the life of me cannot find a fuse !! I have looked in all three fuse boxes, inside car beside driver, small in the battery cavity, and large
one in the battery box, I am going to swap this relay out today and see !! hope,hope. I have checked every plug under the hood and found nothing and it is the most frustrating, I figure two weeks to find trouble, and two minutes to fix, ?? .The only thing I am wondering about is the alarm light (security light on dash) is still on normal, and whem key is turned on NOT CRANKING, the light comes on steady ??
I guess just about all is lost so if this doesn't soon get resolved I will have to take it to the Nissan dealer, and Pray I don't get robbed !!
Is there some way to tell if the ECM is really powered off?? and if so, how can I get it to power back on ?? I have checked all plugs and traced wiring to make sure there were no obvious damage, and now at a stand still and frustrated as the dickens.
See if you can find a competent mechanic before you ate it to the stealership. Mechanic will cost you 2x what it really takes. Stealership will probably charge you 4x.
If you want, have the dealership just run a diagnostic check and tell you what's wrong. Then fix it your self.
Then again they couldn't even find that my buddies cat was clogged and broken. They just ran a test and gave us a laundry list of things we already checked. Then shrugged and said good luck. Best $100 he never spent lol
Don't go to the dealer until you find the fuses. They are there. One is for switched power to the ECM one is for the ECM memory. Check 10A fuse #1 (in cab) and 15A fuse #77 in the IPDM.
I guess just about all is lost so if this doesn't soon get resolved I will have to take it to the Nissan dealer, and Pray I don't get robbed !!
Is there some way to tell if the ECM is really powered off?? and if so, how can I get it to power back on ?? I have checked all plugs and traced wiring to make sure there were no obvious damage, and now at a stand still and frustrated as the dickens.
Thanks, Tom Y
done told you that if your fans kick in as soon as you turn the key to crank then your ECU is not communicating due to being fried or powered off.
You could pull the FSM which gives the pin outs for the large connector. Use a multimeter to check for the 12v and gnd on the right pins.
I am going out and do the checks and hunt the two fuses, I am sorry I have tried to follow all instructions
but this damn thing has started to cause me to get a little confused, and I think I did the checks, and now I fully intend to pull the FSM and will check the 12 volts. I really appreciate you guys patience..
I have a part of it done, I checked the 2 fuses . One under in the Battery Cavity.
Both fuses were fine. On a note the other day when trouble started I checked
the fuses and the 15 amp one under the hood in Battery Cavity (Large fuse Holder)
and found it to be bad, changed it out, now still ok. Next I am going out and follow
the other instructions and check voltage at cable, the fans still co on with key on.
That fans coming on as soon as you turn the key is a bad sign. Was the key in the on position or something when you re attached the battery?
The blown main fuse also a bad sign... Something must have gotten shorted out to blow that fuse. And it would seem the electric shock got to the computer before blowing that fuse.
At this point it seems like you have given it more than a good try. Might just want to tow it into a repair shop... Or buy a computer from ebay and hope for the best.
11-19-2017, 12:13 AM
