HELP!!! :(( 350z jerking violently and now doesn't start-NO check engine lights
 

I have been driving this car for months with no issues. All of a sudden on my way back home, the car would not rev past 4k. It just started to rev surge, like a rev limiter, bouncing back and forth. I tired driving it still and it only got worse. It then would violenty jerk even in the 1000s rpm with the revs bouncing around. I tired taking the battery terminal off, waiting and then trying it again that didn't work. I kept trying and at first the car would idle fine, but as soon as you try going it would jerk and jerk. It got to the point where you start it and it cuts out. Now it won't even start. The MAF sensor looks perfect based on what I have been told. The car cranks over and I can hear the fuel pump switching on when I try but it won't start and No CODES come up with a scan. No dash or check engine lights on.

Please I'm begging you guys! This car has been a nightmare. Has anyone had the same issue or similar symptoms and found the solution? The car has 51,700 miles no known mods besides HID depo headlights, exhaust, and long CAI. Before this problem I had an oil change and oil cooler O-Ring replacement at Nissan.

I'm possibly thinking :
Bad camshaft positioning sensor?
Bad crankshaft sensor?
Needs the throttle body relearning procedure?
Bad Fuel pump?
Some kind of short circuit somewhere?

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If you ever have symptoms like I did know that its your crankshaft senor. In my case it was loose and came undone, once mechanic bolted it up good, car started and ran like nothing ever happened. It's odd because I never messed with that area before, so either the previous owner did or I have some unethical mechanic tweek it so I would come back.

my guess is the camshaft sensors, but i wouldnt think they would cause jerking... nobody will be able to properly diagnose your car from behind a keyboard

The solution to the weird issue!
 

If you ever have symptoms like I did know that its your crankshaft senor. In my case it was loose and came undone, once mechanic bolted it up good, car started and ran like nothing ever happened. It's odd because I never messed with that area before, so either the previous owner did or I have some unethical mechanic tweek it so I would come back.

Props for coming back on and posting what the solution ultimately was. However, it's also a good lesson for the future: opening up the hood and taking the time to inspect the entire engine bay is worthwhile. You might have found the crankshaft sensor yourself (it's not hard) and tightened it up yourself. Good guess by Trav, but as many of us have said before, we can't magically appear and diagnose these problems accurately without going through the basics. Hope others will learn this lesson for the future!

I agree with dkmura. It's hard to diagnose problems with a key board. But these cars are notorious for cam/crank sensor issues. I also had a bucking and jerking condition and had a bad brand new crank sensor also with no check engine light but once I pulled codes there was a hidden code code for the crank position sensor I replaced with OEM and haven't had a problem since. If you end up replacing sensors I would highly suggest buying oem sensors online. The dealer wants almost $600 for the set of three u can find them online for about half the price.