Clutch pedal slow to return
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Clutch pedal slow to return
Hello all,
If this post is somewhere else I am sorry as I could not find anything similar to my situation (forums,Google, or youtube)
Yesterday, as I was heading home, I noticed my clutch pedal was working fine until I would let it out and it was slow to return to the normal position. My gears aren't slipping or anything just a slow return on the pedal.. any ideas?
This would happen on the week of my job interviews haha
If this post is somewhere else I am sorry as I could not find anything similar to my situation (forums,Google, or youtube)
Yesterday, as I was heading home, I noticed my clutch pedal was working fine until I would let it out and it was slow to return to the normal position. My gears aren't slipping or anything just a slow return on the pedal.. any ideas?
This would happen on the week of my job interviews haha
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2003, 132,*** and just a popcharger and test Pipes I looked at it yesterday and it's making a very loud noise after pressing it a few times the fluid is a brown color.
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Atreyu'z 350 (08-22-2017)
#5
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Like a squealing noise?.. Brown fluid could be a symptom of contamination, particularly from molybdenum disulfide, which lubricates the slave piston. Either that or moisture contamination. I'd suggest a complete fluid flush.
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I keep hearing that it's possibly the pressure plate but the only symptom I have is slow clutch pedal return??
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Thats what I keep hearing..so no one thinks it's the pressure plate at all? My dad moved the boot where the clutch fork is and said there is corrosion from the pressure plate there???
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Yeah it's like a loud squealing sound mixed with a metal type sound. I did notice when I was driving if I pressed the clutch in repeatedly the rpm would die and it would make a grinding sound
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iideadeyeii (08-24-2017)
#15
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Let me tell you what happened in my case. First of all where I live it's 120 (dry heat not humid) in the summer and I had the same problem specially during hot days.
1st attempt to fix it:
-Installed a clutch SS line
-ATE synthetic fluid
Problem was better but it was still there. Specially if I attended a track day and it peaked at 100+.
2nd attempt:
-Replaced slave cylinder (OEM $40 part)
-Motul RBF600
It has been over 5000 miles and it hasn't done it once. If after the fluid, line and cylinder are replaced and the problem persists, then it's your Master Cylinder.
1st attempt to fix it:
-Installed a clutch SS line
-ATE synthetic fluid
Problem was better but it was still there. Specially if I attended a track day and it peaked at 100+.
2nd attempt:
-Replaced slave cylinder (OEM $40 part)
-Motul RBF600
It has been over 5000 miles and it hasn't done it once. If after the fluid, line and cylinder are replaced and the problem persists, then it's your Master Cylinder.
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Hey guys, sorry i just saw all the great replies. Wasnt notified I had any responses on this thread lol. Anyways after changing fluid and doing a new clutch kit I now have a problem where the car cranks up fine, however, it idles around 300 or so and acts like its starving for fuel when pressing the throttle. I am getting the codes P0327, P0021, and P0011. Any ideas?
#17
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Hey guys, sorry i just saw all the great replies. Wasnt notified I had any responses on this thread lol. Anyways after changing fluid and doing a new clutch kit I now have a problem where the car cranks up fine, however, it idles around 300 or so and acts like its starving for fuel when pressing the throttle. I am getting the codes P0327, P0021, and P0011. Any ideas?
Whaaaaaat. OK... So did bleeding the system and installing a new clutch kit help with your previous issue??
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We got the flywheel aligned right and everything is good to go. However I still have a clutch pedal issue. When letting off the pedal it's slow to return and it sounds like there's something at the peddle that pops. Could it be a spring issue?