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Overheating Problem AND IT WONT STOP
Kinda new to this form thing but I have a huge problem...
My car is a 2006 rev up 350z and it's been over heating since I got the car 1 year ago I changed the thermostat that didn't work... I did a thermostat deleate it kinda help but still over heated on long drives... I bought a Mishimoto racing thermostat and it helped even more but on a little bit longer runs still over heated... At this point I thought maybe I didn't bleed it correct the last 2 times so I did it again and helped a bit more but still over heated... I bought a brand new fan thinking that might be the problem but once again helped a bit more but still over heated... At this point I don't know what to do I don't think it's the head gasket, do you guys think it could just be the fan again (I was thinking of buying the Mishimoto racing fan thinking that the OEM fan can't keep up with the car anymore) but I'm on my final stand and running out of options can anyone help or give tips thx. |
It’s really hard to tell the issue by this description, but I’ll offer some suggestions. 1) radiator. Usually a clogged or damaged or worn radiator will not cool efficiently. 2) water pump. If the water doesn’t flow through the motor it won’t cool either. Usually the presents itself with a small water weep out the bottom of the pump. These two are the most common problems with overheating. After that, uncommon problems include air trap, blown gaskets, and thermostat. I don’t suspect the first two either because they are rare. If you have water in the oil, that’s a gasket problem. Two water changes and you still have a problem, seem like no air, and new/no thermostat and still a problem lead me to my first set of checks. Radiator and water pump. Good luck. |
I'm no expert but this setup is famous for trapping air. With engine cold add 50/50 coolant to reservoir, replace cap. Top off radiator, recap.
There is a bleed valve just under pass side wiper at top of heater hosing. Remove cap and use a small funnel to slowly add coolant till full, replace cap. Repeat this procedure until it stays in range. This assuming water is circulating. Other ways to ck circulation. With engine cold and stopped remove radiator cap and run until operating temp. If the tstat is working you'll see the water level drop and hot water reentering from top hose. Also your top hose should be warm, bottom hose cool. Good luck. |
Originally Posted by mjsmikey
(Post 10948036)
It’s really hard to tell the issue by this description, but I’ll offer some suggestions. 1) radiator. Usually a clogged or damaged or worn radiator will not cool efficiently. 2) water pump. If the water doesn’t flow through the motor it won’t cool either. Usually the presents itself with a small water weep out the bottom of the pump. These two are the most common problems with overheating. After that, uncommon problems include air trap, blown gaskets, and thermostat. I don’t suspect the first two either because they are rare. If you have water in the oil, that’s a gasket problem. Two water changes and you still have a problem, seem like no air, and new/no thermostat and still a problem lead me to my first set of checks. Radiator and water pump. Good luck.
Originally Posted by jhc
(Post 10948042)
I'm no expert but this setup is famous for trapping air. With engine cold add 50/50 coolant to reservoir, replace cap. Top off radiator, recap.
There is a bleed valve just under pass side wiper at top of heater hosing. Remove cap and use a small funnel to slowly add coolant till full, replace cap. Repeat this procedure until it stays in range. This assuming water is circulating. Other ways to ck circulation. With engine cold and stopped remove radiator cap and run until operating temp. If the tstat is working you'll see the water level drop and hot water reentering from top hose. Also your top hose should be warm, bottom hose cool. Good luck. Have you had the cooling system pressure tested? If not, just like any engine issues, best to run diagnostics before throwing hardware at it. Finally when you are re-filling the cooling system, you could do it the way jhc suggested but honestly, it's so much easier to power fill it. There are vacuum draw systems out there just for this. Or if you don't have access to the tool - some auto shops loan or rent these - fill the rad as best you can then have the final vac purge done at a shop. Takes 5 minutes.... |
Originally Posted by iiLLuSiiV
(Post 10948024)
Kinda new to this form thing but I have a huge problem...
My car is a 2006 rev up 350z and it's been over heating since I got the car 1 year ago I changed the thermostat that didn't work... I did a thermostat deleate it kinda help but still over heated on long drives... I bought a Mishimoto racing thermostat and it helped even more but on a little bit longer runs still over heated... At this point I thought maybe I didn't bleed it correct the last 2 times so I did it again and helped a bit more but still over heated... I bought a brand new fan thinking that might be the problem but once again helped a bit more but still over heated... At this point I don't know what to do I don't think it's the head gasket, do you guys think it could just be the fan again (I was thinking of buying the Mishimoto racing fan thinking that the OEM fan can't keep up with the car anymore) but I'm on my final stand and running out of options can anyone help or give tips thx. Are you able to get consistent heat from the vents when you turn the heater on high heat? And there's no leaks anywhere? |
Originally Posted by Atreyu'z 350
(Post 10948052)
Are you able to get consistent heat from the vents when you turn the heater on high heat? And there's no leaks anywhere?
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Originally Posted by MicVelo
(Post 10948045)
Both of these problem/solutions sound like the most plausible. If all you've done is thermostat and fan with little results, time to start looking at the main cooling hardware versus the regulatory stuff. I'm leaning towards water pump since it sounds like a circulatory issue.
Have you had the cooling system pressure tested? If not, just like any engine issues, best to run diagnostics before throwing hardware at it. Finally when you are re-filling the cooling system, you could do it the way jhc suggested but honestly, it's so much easier to power fill it. There are vacuum draw systems out there just for this. Or if you don't have access to the tool - some auto shops loan or rent these - fill the rad as best you can then have the final vac purge done at a shop. Takes 5 minutes.... |
Originally Posted by jhc
(Post 10948042)
I'm no expert but this setup is famous for trapping air. With engine cold add 50/50 coolant to reservoir, replace cap. Top off radiator, recap.
There is a bleed valve just under pass side wiper at top of heater hosing. Remove cap and use a small funnel to slowly add coolant till full, replace cap. Repeat this procedure until it stays in range. This assuming water is circulating. Other ways to ck circulation. With engine cold and stopped remove radiator cap and run until operating temp. If the tstat is working you'll see the water level drop and hot water reentering from top hose. Also your top hose should be warm, bottom hose cool. Good luck. |
Originally Posted by mjsmikey
(Post 10948036)
It’s really hard to tell the issue by this description, but I’ll offer some suggestions. 1) radiator. Usually a clogged or damaged or worn radiator will not cool efficiently. 2) water pump. If the water doesn’t flow through the motor it won’t cool either. Usually the presents itself with a small water weep out the bottom of the pump. These two are the most common problems with overheating. After that, uncommon problems include air trap, blown gaskets, and thermostat. I don’t suspect the first two either because they are rare. If you have water in the oil, that’s a gasket problem. Two water changes and you still have a problem, seem like no air, and new/no thermostat and still a problem lead me to my first set of checks. Radiator and water pump. Good luck. |
Originally Posted by jhc
(Post 10948042)
I'm no expert but this setup is famous for trapping air. With engine cold add 50/50 coolant to reservoir, replace cap. Top off radiator, recap.
There is a bleed valve just under pass side wiper at top of heater hosing. Remove cap and use a small funnel to slowly add coolant till full, replace cap. Repeat this procedure until it stays in range. This assuming water is circulating. Other ways to ck circulation. With engine cold and stopped remove radiator cap and run until operating temp. If the tstat is working you'll see the water level drop and hot water reentering from top hose. Also your top hose should be warm, bottom hose cool. Good luck. |
Originally Posted by iiLLuSiiV
(Post 10948066)
so I did it and every thing was going good I no bubbles came up after 20min of running it with AC on and heater but only 1 fan was spinning hard and the other was off could it be the fan again?
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Originally Posted by jhc
(Post 10948093)
After all that and running 20 minutes is temp normal?
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so today i did a alittle pull and parked n my drive way and let the car run to touch the top and bottle radiator hoses and the top ad bottem where both hot after just 1 pull with the bumper on then parking i also checked the fans and they where both running hard (i had the heater and a/c on when i parked) i dont know if its the radiator or the water pump or if the fans are turning on quick enough or what any tips or ideas would help plz and thx :dunno:
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little late on an update but it was a bad radiator :{
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