I need help !!! (2007 nissan 350z vq35hr)
11-08-2018, 03:21 AM
#1
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I need help !!! (2007 nissan 350z vq35hr)
So today i started my Z and it wouldnt go into gear when turned on when i turn it off itll go into all gears fine the clitch feels like it has pressure,its a new clutch and idk if it was bled properly but what ik is that this car has worked since the new clutch replacement and we did a couole pulls went into every gear and now out of no were it has stoped working it wont go into gear while on when i turn it off put it in 1st then turn it on itll run and only stay in 1st sometimes it will change gears but i have to shift a high rpm for it to work and also i have an issue every morning when going into reverse itll grind even tho i have the clutch in when putting it into reverse and idk i really need your guyss help!!!
Last edited by Zgangz33; 11-08-2018 at 04:51 AM. Reason: Not complete
11-08-2018, 04:20 AM
#2
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So today i started my Z and it wouldnt go into gear when turned on when i turn it off itll go into all gears fine the clitch feels like it has pressure,its a new clutch and idk if it was bled properly but what ik is that this car has worked since the new clutch replacement and we did a couole pulls went into every gear and now out of no were it has stoped working it wont go into gear while on when i turn it off put it in 1st then turn it on itll run and only stay in 1st sometimes it will change gears but i have to shift a high rpm for it to work and also i have an issue every morning when going into reverse itll grind even tho i have the clutch in when putting it into reverse and idk i really need your guyss help!!!
But here, first things first.... You describe a lot of SYMPTOMS. What DIAGNOSTICS have you done? Is there hydraulic fluid left in the reservoir of clutch master? Checked for leaks at the slave? Have you jacked it up to check the clutch fork alignment (or as close to operating as you can see/feel?) Does the pedal feel different?
11-08-2018, 04:31 AM
#3
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You're not likely going to get any real help here when no one is there to put hands on and having basic info. What year is the car? Any mods? This could be a really simple fix or a really complex one but again, no one can tell you without actually inspecting. Was the work professionally done? (If so, pretty common sense to just tow it back to the shop that did the work.)
But here, first things first.... You describe a lot of SYMPTOMS. What DIAGNOSTICS have you done? Is there hydraulic fluid left in the reservoir of clutch master? Checked for leaks at the slave? Have you jacked it up to check the clutch fork alignment (or as close to operating as you can see/feel?) Does the pedal feel different?
But here, first things first.... You describe a lot of SYMPTOMS. What DIAGNOSTICS have you done? Is there hydraulic fluid left in the reservoir of clutch master? Checked for leaks at the slave? Have you jacked it up to check the clutch fork alignment (or as close to operating as you can see/feel?) Does the pedal feel different?
have to jack up the car and check the clutch fork the pedal feels the same and has pressure im not at home rn but the car is sitting at the house i will provide some pictures and video of my issue but i was told that it might be the syncros, or that i dont have the right transfluid im still trying to decided what to do im probably gonna take it to the the shop and check it out most of the part are after market so maybe they are not done properly but the previous owner told me to check those 2 things out maybe the work was a bit janky ....
Last edited by Zgangz33; 11-08-2018 at 04:59 AM. Reason: Not done
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Zgangz33 (11-08-2018)
11-08-2018, 06:19 AM
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thank you
11-08-2018, 06:30 AM
#6
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Mic was right about asking about clutch forks since the OP didn't specify what year his Z was originally. Now that we know it's a later model Z, we know it's got a CSC (concentric slave cylinder). It's also likely the CSC is part of the problem, but only a hands-on inspection will really reveal much. The OP's frustration is clear, and the lack of diagnostic details and the run-on dialogue sure don't help. He's making the right decision to get a local shop involved; it'll be the most direct way to get a proper repair underway. Let's hope he posts a followup once the repair is complete, to get some details on what the problem was.
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Zgangz33 (11-08-2018)
11-08-2018, 06:33 AM
#7
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Unlikely to be synchros. This sounds like a straight up clutch issue. I'd put money on air in the system or some other type of misalignment causing the clutch to not fully disengage.
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Zgangz33 (11-08-2018)
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11-08-2018, 06:35 AM
#8
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Mic was right about asking about clutch forks since the OP didn't specify what year his Z was originally. Now that we know it's a later model Z, we know it's got a CSC (concentric slave cylinder). It's also likely the CSC is part of the problem, but only a hands-on inspection will really reveal much. The OP's frustration is clear, and the lack of diagnostic details and the run-on dialogue sure don't help. He's making the right decision to get a local shop involved; it'll be the most direct way to get a proper repair underway. Let's hope he posts a followup once the repair is complete, to get some details on what the problem was.
11-08-2018, 06:46 AM
#9
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Mic im not going to lie but the clutch was replaced last week this issue happend out of no where the mechanic i took it to said that the clutch had a lot of wear on it i lended the car to my buddy ad he obviously did not know how to drive stick so the clutch was replaced and today it decided to just act weird and im trying to describe the issue as well as i can but the car yesterday shifted fine entered every gear no issue, the car can shift but i struggle a bit to get it into gear but it makes no grinding noises idk if i explained properly but the car let me shift it at a higher rpm then normal. then when i try to shift into a higher gear it wont go into that gear and will put its self back in neutral so i have to turn off the car put it in 1st then turn it on then it works for a bit until it decides not to go into gear the clutch does in fact go in all the way and it comes back out no problem you might be right tho hopefully i can get the money back for the lousy job as well let me know any other info you need but i think your probably right like i said iwill check it out at a shop later to day and will have a follow up.
Last edited by Zgangz33; 11-08-2018 at 06:52 AM.
11-08-2018, 01:11 PM
#10
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Follow up on whats wrong with the Z
guys i really appreciate the help but for some odd reason i let the car warm up a bit and it worked fine i ended up taking it to the mechanic shop and he said the clutch was bled the CSC was replaced and as well as the clutch master cylinder it was a whole kit i should say and the trans also had fluid in it the car now runs fine with no issue what do you guys think happened this morning.................. he said if it happens again may be the synchros........ at this point but idk what to say should i sell it if i get these issue again or any other issues ?
11-08-2018, 01:48 PM
#11
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Mic im not going to lie but the clutch was replaced last week this issue happend out of no where the mechanic i took it to said that the clutch had a lot of wear on it i lended the car to my buddy ad he obviously did not know how to drive stick so the clutch was replaced and today it decided to just act weird and im trying to describe the issue as well as i can but the car yesterday shifted fine entered every gear no issue, the car can shift but i struggle a bit to get it into gear but it makes no grinding noises idk if i explained properly but the car let me shift it at a higher rpm then normal. then when i try to shift into a higher gear it wont go into that gear and will put its self back in neutral so i have to turn off the car put it in 1st then turn it on then it works for a bit until it decides not to go into gear the clutch does in fact go in all the way and it comes back out no problem you might be right tho hopefully i can get the money back for the lousy job as well let me know any other info you need but i think your probably right like i said iwill check it out at a shop later to day and will have a follow up.
11-08-2018, 02:07 PM
#12
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OK, another possibility given this new bit of info.... "it wont go into that gear and will put its self back in neutral"... there is a possibility that when the transmission was re-installed, the shifter mechanism was not securely reinstalled and it has come out of alignment. There are a number of threads on here that detail how to adjust it if this is the problem. A maladjusted shifter could easily cause gear non-engagement and forcing it back to neutral.
11-08-2018, 03:00 PM
#14
Google would lead ya here
here are the steps on how to re-align your manual transmission shifter plate if you change your shifter, drop your transmission, or feel like it could use aligning because maybe it moved just enough to effect your shifting. when its misaligned it can cause you to grind your gears and eventually grind out your gears.
all you need is 10mm socket with short extension and ratchet for the lower boot bolts and shifter plate bolts. you need a screwdriver for the trim panel. and the shift linkage bolt is 10mm i believe.
1) remove shift ****
2) remove the trim panel by using a screw driver around the edges popping it up on each side.
3) once trim panel is loose in order to move it completely out of the way you must disconnect the wire clips connected to the back end of the trim panel.
4) now with the trim and **** off take off the upper boot.
5) you will now see 4 bolts connecting the lower boot. take those out and set the lower boot and bolts together aside.
6) if you are changing out the shifter or dropping the transmission then you have to go underneath the car and take out the bolt connecting the shifter to the transmission linkage. It it located inside the protective dust boot cover. (big black rubber boot)
7) now back on the inside you will see 3 bolts connecting the shifter plate to the transmission. if taking out the shifter or transmission then take the bolts completely out and make sure your holding down because it will spring out after you take out the bolts.
if you are just re-aligning the you can loosen the bolts then push down the shifter a little bit and hand tighten the bolts.
9) move the shifter into the 6th gear position and make the notch sticking out of the shifter level with the shifter plate "guide" by slightly pushing down on the shifter. move the shifter plate (the plate with the 3 bolts) accordingly to make sure the "guide" on the plate is touching the shifter. once that is accomplished, at the same time tighten the bolt at the right rear on the plate (to keep it in place)
10) now move the shifter into the 5th gear position and align the shifter notch with the plate like i explained in step #9. When it is aligned right and touching then you tighten the bolt at the front of the guide plate (closest to the engine).
**side note. the reason the shifter notch has to touch the side of the plate is so that it guides the shifter into the 6th gear from fifth; as well as when you push down to go into reverse the notch goes underneath the plate to make it go into the reverse gear. once there is the correct alignment the other gears are in syncronation as well.
11) tighten the left bolt now then torque them all down to 88 inch pounds
after you have tightened them all down try going thru all the gears and see if it feels right. make sure when your going from 5th to 6th the shifter notch is touching and going along the plate guide for the proper alignment of all the gears. This is very important because if it is slightly off and there is enough room for play of the shifter (to go farther right then its suppose to in the 5th and 6th gears) then the alignment will be off and you will grind out all of your gears one by one. once your comfortable with it then replace everything else in reverse order then screw on your shifter and your done.
all you need is 10mm socket with short extension and ratchet for the lower boot bolts and shifter plate bolts. you need a screwdriver for the trim panel. and the shift linkage bolt is 10mm i believe.
1) remove shift ****
2) remove the trim panel by using a screw driver around the edges popping it up on each side.
3) once trim panel is loose in order to move it completely out of the way you must disconnect the wire clips connected to the back end of the trim panel.
4) now with the trim and **** off take off the upper boot.
5) you will now see 4 bolts connecting the lower boot. take those out and set the lower boot and bolts together aside.
6) if you are changing out the shifter or dropping the transmission then you have to go underneath the car and take out the bolt connecting the shifter to the transmission linkage. It it located inside the protective dust boot cover. (big black rubber boot)
7) now back on the inside you will see 3 bolts connecting the shifter plate to the transmission. if taking out the shifter or transmission then take the bolts completely out and make sure your holding down because it will spring out after you take out the bolts.
if you are just re-aligning the you can loosen the bolts then push down the shifter a little bit and hand tighten the bolts.
9) move the shifter into the 6th gear position and make the notch sticking out of the shifter level with the shifter plate "guide" by slightly pushing down on the shifter. move the shifter plate (the plate with the 3 bolts) accordingly to make sure the "guide" on the plate is touching the shifter. once that is accomplished, at the same time tighten the bolt at the right rear on the plate (to keep it in place)
10) now move the shifter into the 5th gear position and align the shifter notch with the plate like i explained in step #9. When it is aligned right and touching then you tighten the bolt at the front of the guide plate (closest to the engine).
**side note. the reason the shifter notch has to touch the side of the plate is so that it guides the shifter into the 6th gear from fifth; as well as when you push down to go into reverse the notch goes underneath the plate to make it go into the reverse gear. once there is the correct alignment the other gears are in syncronation as well.
11) tighten the left bolt now then torque them all down to 88 inch pounds
after you have tightened them all down try going thru all the gears and see if it feels right. make sure when your going from 5th to 6th the shifter notch is touching and going along the plate guide for the proper alignment of all the gears. This is very important because if it is slightly off and there is enough room for play of the shifter (to go farther right then its suppose to in the 5th and 6th gears) then the alignment will be off and you will grind out all of your gears one by one. once your comfortable with it then replace everything else in reverse order then screw on your shifter and your done.
11-09-2018, 03:29 AM
#16
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What Should I Do...............?????????
guys so my mechanic didn't know wtf he is talking except he was right about the fluids being there but he didnt tell about the synchros..... i took it to my buddys shop and he put it up on a hoist and check under the car he made me shift and he heard a noise coming from the trans and told me it was my synchros for sure so what are my options rebuild or buy a new trans both options ik are very expensive and atm i dont have the kind of money and i really dont want to let the car go its so unique and how it sounds id hate to see it go but what are my options really should i sell it ?
Last edited by Zgangz33; 11-09-2018 at 03:31 AM.
11-09-2018, 05:41 AM
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11-09-2018, 05:42 AM
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