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Coolant leak after upper pan replacement
Does anyone have any idea why I would have a coolant leak into the engine and around the corners of the upper oil pan after doing the upper oil pan removal and installation. I had to replace it due to cracking it from tightening up the oil pressure sensor to tightly and I didn’t have an oil leak with the replacement, however I do have currently. I did not replace the two red openings so I’m wondering if maybe that’s where the coolant goes to cool the oil. It’s been along time since I started up the car and saw the coolant and have been working on it for months now so I don’t remember quite where it was but I believe it was a steady drop at the corner near the oil cooler. Might have been both front corners for all I know since it’s been so long. Just hoping to get some ideas before I go ahead and re-install tomorrow or Sunday |
Are you getting oil in your coolant or coolant into your oil?
I speculate that you forgot to install the orings between the timing chain case and the front of the block and/or the upper oil pan to to bottom of the block and/or you didnt RTV correctly between pieces. Plan on disassembling everything and re-doing the process at sometime. Did you follow the factory service manual when you reassembled? Load-up some pictures if you have a minute |
Coolant in the oil I don’t recall getting oil in the coolant when I drained it. I didn’t remove the timing chain case. But I did reuse the O-rings between the upper oil pan and the block. Are those for coolant? I’m certain I did the RTV correctly, as I followed the manual. |
It's hard to say ... the coolant system runs +/-15psi where the oil pressure is anywhere from 30-120psi.
If you want to further the diagnosis you could do a leak-down test and compression test to ensure your heads are sealing correctly/aren't breached. How many miles on the car? any other significant work on the engine? |
Well back at it again...
I replaced the upper oil pan again and replaced those o rings with new ones. Still dripping coolant from the same spot.
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....3a07ca15c.jpeg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....b1bf2ffde.jpeg |
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If this is on the drivers side behind the a/c compressor it is gonna be a water pump leak. There is a weep hole there for when the water pump seals go bad so it doesn't drain into the timing cover. Purely coincidental that you noticed it leaking after changing the upper pan.
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Originally Posted by rustyschopshop
(Post 10998937)
If this is on the drivers side behind the a/c compressor it is gonna be a water pump leak. There is a weep hole there for when the water pump seals go bad so it doesn't drain into the timing cover. Purely coincidental that you noticed it leaking after changing the upper pan.
where exactly is the weep hole? Is it inside the timing chain cover? The leak appears to be coming from the surface where the timing chain covers mates with the block. I see a bolt screwed into the block. Does it have anything to do with that? https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/my350z....994b3071a.jpeg do you think it could just be the water pump gasket and not the pump itself? It was a used engine that I bought from a salvage yard. They said it had around 84,000 miles on it. And I think it’s sat without being driven since I bought it for about 3 or 4 years. I only briefly drove it for about a minute when I moved into my current apartment in october 2016 and needed to get it into my garage. |
Kinda hard to tell from FSM but I think the bolt I referenced was the drain plug. Mine isn’t fully screwed in like the drain plug on the oil pan. Is it supposed to be screwed in all the way?
aren’t water pump leaks somewhat slow? I lost all the coolant in a matter of minutes so now I’m starting to wonder if it’s that drain plug. |
the weep hole is in the block right behind the timing cover thermostat area. With the a/c compressor installed it is a little hard to see but easier to see from above.
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As far as how fast the coolant will leak out will depend on how bad the seal is on the water pump shaft.
Also forgot to mention if the engine is at operating temp, the expansion will push the fluid out much faster. |
Thanks! I’m now 99.9% positive it is the water pump. I’ve already replaced the upper oil pan twice now after installing that engine so I’m kinda tired of working on it. If the dealership will do it for less than $500, I’ll take it to them. Otherwise, I’ll get my lazy ass out to the garage.
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you can change the water pump without removing the cover, Just need to access both lower covers on the timing cover. Plan on changing your oil after in case you lose some coolant while changing the pump. There is a plug behind the water pump in the block that will drain that area complete to prevent oil contamination. There is a video made by an infinity tech that shows the easy way to do it on youtube :)
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I think I saw that video. I don’t think I want to deal with the timing chain potentially skipping though. Just seems like something I’d probably screw up.
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Took it to the dealer...
They said just air in the coolant system. But they also said the transmission is pissing fluid and has a code so needs to be replaced. 😢 also a coolant leak into cylinder #2. So I’m ****ed.
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ouch that sucks
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Basically cost is over $10,000 and it still needs a lot of body work and paint and tires and other little things.
So.... anyone want to buy a 2003 350z? I’ll even throw in another VQ35DE! |
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