The Official LS Swap Info/Questions Thread
03-24-2012, 04:40 PM
#622
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In a nutshell, below is what I've started to pull together about the different engines. Now I'm going to try and add their weights, whether or not Sikky/Hinson/Fueled's kits will work with each one for the Z, and what transmission options are available. Then I'm going to start putting together the ballpark prices for dropouts of each (eBay) so that I can compare power, weight, and normal cost of each option. Then I can start to make some notes about the known advantages/disadvantages when it comes to trying add power or swap this particular motor into the Z. That way, I'll end up with a spreadsheet that I can look over before making my final decision on which direction to go.
VQ35DE (2003-2006)
- all aluminum 3.5L V6
- rated at 287hp and 260tq
VQ35HR (2007-2009)
- all aluminum strengthened and redesigned 3.5L V6
- rated at 306hp and 268tq
-------------------------------------------------
Gen III - LS1 (1997-2004)
- all alluminum 5.7L (Corvette, Camaro Z28, Firebird)
- rated at 350hp and 365tq since 2001
- rated at 305-325 in F-Body cars
- Crate Engine $5300
Gen III - LS6 (2001-2004)
- higher output version of LS1 (Corvette C5 Z06, CTS V-series)
- rated at 385hp and 385tq initially, then 405hp and 400tq 2002-2004
- Crate Engine $6000
Gen III - LQ4 (1999-????)
- iron block 6.0L vortec 6000 truck version (Suburban, Yukon, Hummer)
- 1999 & 2000 models had cast iron heads as well
- rated at 300-325hp and 360-370tq
- Crate Engine $3300
Gen III - LQ9 (2002- 2007)
- high output/performance version of LQ4 (Escalade, Silverado)
- rated at 345hp and 380tq
- Crate Engine $3500
---------------------------------------
Gen IV - LS2 (2005-2007)
- similar to LS6 but with improved torque curve (GTO, SSR, Corvette,CTS-V)
- higher compression than LS1 and LS6
- rated at 400hp and 400tq
- Crate Engine $6400
Gen IV - LS7 (2006-Present)
- sleeved 7.0L version of LS2 with larger bore & stroke (Corvette Z06)
- rated at 505hp and 470tq
- Crate Engine $13500
Gen IV - L92 (2007-Present)
- all aluminum 6.2L Vortec 6200 engine (Escalade/Yukon/Hummer)
- rated at 403hp and 417tq
- Crate Engine $3500
Gen IV - LS3 (2008-Present)
- larger bore version of LS2 bringing it to 6.1L with L92 heads (Corvette, Camaro SS, G8)
- rated at 430hp and 424tq
- Crate Engine $7000
Gen IV - LS9 (2009-Present)
- Eaton 2.3L Roots Type Supercharged 6.1L LS3 (Corvette ZR1)
- rated at 638hp and 604tq
- Crate Engine $21000
Gen IV - LSA (2009-Present)
- Eaton 1.9L Roots Type Supercharged 6.2L similar to LS9 (CTS-V, Camaro ZL1)
- rated at 556hp and 551tq in CTS-V
- rated 580hp in Camaro ZL1
- Crate Engine $11000
EDIT: I added GM crate engine pricing for each for a general cost comparison between models.
VQ35DE (2003-2006)
- all aluminum 3.5L V6
- rated at 287hp and 260tq
VQ35HR (2007-2009)
- all aluminum strengthened and redesigned 3.5L V6
- rated at 306hp and 268tq
-------------------------------------------------
Gen III - LS1 (1997-2004)
- all alluminum 5.7L (Corvette, Camaro Z28, Firebird)
- rated at 350hp and 365tq since 2001
- rated at 305-325 in F-Body cars
- Crate Engine $5300
Gen III - LS6 (2001-2004)
- higher output version of LS1 (Corvette C5 Z06, CTS V-series)
- rated at 385hp and 385tq initially, then 405hp and 400tq 2002-2004
- Crate Engine $6000
Gen III - LQ4 (1999-????)
- iron block 6.0L vortec 6000 truck version (Suburban, Yukon, Hummer)
- 1999 & 2000 models had cast iron heads as well
- rated at 300-325hp and 360-370tq
- Crate Engine $3300
Gen III - LQ9 (2002- 2007)
- high output/performance version of LQ4 (Escalade, Silverado)
- rated at 345hp and 380tq
- Crate Engine $3500
---------------------------------------
Gen IV - LS2 (2005-2007)
- similar to LS6 but with improved torque curve (GTO, SSR, Corvette,CTS-V)
- higher compression than LS1 and LS6
- rated at 400hp and 400tq
- Crate Engine $6400
Gen IV - LS7 (2006-Present)
- sleeved 7.0L version of LS2 with larger bore & stroke (Corvette Z06)
- rated at 505hp and 470tq
- Crate Engine $13500
Gen IV - L92 (2007-Present)
- all aluminum 6.2L Vortec 6200 engine (Escalade/Yukon/Hummer)
- rated at 403hp and 417tq
- Crate Engine $3500
Gen IV - LS3 (2008-Present)
- larger bore version of LS2 bringing it to 6.1L with L92 heads (Corvette, Camaro SS, G8)
- rated at 430hp and 424tq
- Crate Engine $7000
Gen IV - LS9 (2009-Present)
- Eaton 2.3L Roots Type Supercharged 6.1L LS3 (Corvette ZR1)
- rated at 638hp and 604tq
- Crate Engine $21000
Gen IV - LSA (2009-Present)
- Eaton 1.9L Roots Type Supercharged 6.2L similar to LS9 (CTS-V, Camaro ZL1)
- rated at 556hp and 551tq in CTS-V
- rated 580hp in Camaro ZL1
- Crate Engine $11000
EDIT: I added GM crate engine pricing for each for a general cost comparison between models.
Last edited by SparkleCityHop; 03-24-2012 at 05:28 PM.
03-24-2012, 05:06 PM
#623
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With Sikky's basic components totaling over $3k, it looks like the LS1 out of an F body or the LQ4 wouldn't be a cost effective swap day one unless you build them, since swapping straight out to the stock setup will net you less hp & tq than you can make with a SC or ST reasonably safe on a stock VQ35 block (or with some minor internal upgrades). The LQ9 might not be bad with L92 heads as a cheap way to get your foot in the door? 
Sikky Mount Kit $2250
Aluminum Race Oil Pan
Remote Mount Filter Kit
Engine & Transmission Mounts
Billet Short Shifter
Aluminum Driveshaft
Sikky Ceramic Coated Headers $995
LS1 350Z/G35 1 7/8 Ceramic Coated 3 1/2 collector
Sikky Master Cylinder Conversion Kit $279
Sikky Power Steering Line Kit $129
(And, yes… I know there is plenty more to buy than just that.)
I guess the thing that I have to keep in mind is that I'm buying much more reliable power that is cheaper to work on, maintain, and add power (compared to a built and turbo'ed VQ) when we're talking anything over the 400tq "line in the sand".
Sikky Mount Kit $2250
Aluminum Race Oil Pan
Remote Mount Filter Kit
Engine & Transmission Mounts
Billet Short Shifter
Aluminum Driveshaft
Sikky Ceramic Coated Headers $995
LS1 350Z/G35 1 7/8 Ceramic Coated 3 1/2 collector
Sikky Master Cylinder Conversion Kit $279
Sikky Power Steering Line Kit $129
(And, yes… I know there is plenty more to buy than just that.)
I guess the thing that I have to keep in mind is that I'm buying much more reliable power that is cheaper to work on, maintain, and add power (compared to a built and turbo'ed VQ) when we're talking anything over the 400tq "line in the sand".
Last edited by SparkleCityHop; 03-24-2012 at 05:07 PM.
03-24-2012, 06:10 PM
#625
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That's what we're all here for. 
The more that I read from the LSx nitrous guys, they seem to like the iron blocks if you're going to throw a decent shot at it or run FI. And I'm definitely going to be putting the NANO nitrous setup on anything new that I transplant into the Z. So I'm leaning towards either the LQ4 or LQ9 with the L92 heads and a cam with a shot on top. If I can shoot for 400hp off the juice and 550hp on the juice, I think that will be an eye opener compared to the 250hp I'm used to. I can get the iron blocks dirt cheap, but it does add an additional 88lbs to the front end of the car. So I'll probably try to relocate my battery and maybe I'll just keep the speaker box in the rear to counter weight. hahaha
I guess I also have to figure in that I'll have two nitrous bottles and two NANO bottles in the trunk that will add a little weight back there too, so maybe it won't throw my weight distribution off too much.
The more that I read from the LSx nitrous guys, they seem to like the iron blocks if you're going to throw a decent shot at it or run FI. And I'm definitely going to be putting the NANO nitrous setup on anything new that I transplant into the Z. So I'm leaning towards either the LQ4 or LQ9 with the L92 heads and a cam with a shot on top. If I can shoot for 400hp off the juice and 550hp on the juice, I think that will be an eye opener compared to the 250hp I'm used to. I can get the iron blocks dirt cheap, but it does add an additional 88lbs to the front end of the car. So I'll probably try to relocate my battery and maybe I'll just keep the speaker box in the rear to counter weight. hahaha
I guess I also have to figure in that I'll have two nitrous bottles and two NANO bottles in the trunk that will add a little weight back there too, so maybe it won't throw my weight distribution off too much.
Last edited by SparkleCityHop; 03-24-2012 at 06:11 PM.
03-25-2012, 11:42 AM
#627
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I read last night about the Gen III & Gen IV engines until I couldn't keep my eyes open anymore. I'm trying to learn as much as possible up front, but as long as I can get good answers to the following through additional research, I'm probably starting out with the LQ9:
- will all of the Sikky stuff still work
- are the accessories positions fine for the 350Z bay
- do I need a T56 or can i go with a 4L80E or 4L60E tranny
- what is the cost switching the the L92 heads
- is the truck intake too tall for the 350Z hood
- what is the cost switching to a different intake
- would I be fine with hp tuners or another relatively inexpensive EM
- what is a reasonable street cam and intake combination for this setup
- will I need a return fuel system and more than the walbro I have
A guy within 45 minutes from me has his built LQ9 for sale on Craiglist that dyno'ed 650hp, so I feel pretty good about "growth room" with this block: http://greenville.craigslist.org/pts/2910997515.html
^I messaged the guy and he's pretty eager to sell me that engine. 650hp seems a little crazy for something that I want to be able to use on the street, though. This is the link to the block: http://www.texas-speed.com/p-655-tsp...ong-block.aspx It's never been installed, still on his engine stand and he even still has the crate. It's hard for me to justify spending that much on the engine alone when I was planning on doing a budget LQ9 build, but it looks pretty nice. Maybe he'll take $4k for it.
- will all of the Sikky stuff still work
- are the accessories positions fine for the 350Z bay
- do I need a T56 or can i go with a 4L80E or 4L60E tranny
- what is the cost switching the the L92 heads
- is the truck intake too tall for the 350Z hood
- what is the cost switching to a different intake
- would I be fine with hp tuners or another relatively inexpensive EM
- what is a reasonable street cam and intake combination for this setup
- will I need a return fuel system and more than the walbro I have
A guy within 45 minutes from me has his built LQ9 for sale on Craiglist that dyno'ed 650hp, so I feel pretty good about "growth room" with this block: http://greenville.craigslist.org/pts/2910997515.html
^I messaged the guy and he's pretty eager to sell me that engine. 650hp seems a little crazy for something that I want to be able to use on the street, though. This is the link to the block: http://www.texas-speed.com/p-655-tsp...ong-block.aspx It's never been installed, still on his engine stand and he even still has the crate. It's hard for me to justify spending that much on the engine alone when I was planning on doing a budget LQ9 build, but it looks pretty nice. Maybe he'll take $4k for it.
Last edited by SparkleCityHop; 03-25-2012 at 02:47 PM.
03-25-2012, 03:18 PM
#629
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He's going to get the full build specs from Texas Speed for me tomorrow, but it's hard when I was thinking about finding a used LQ9 and tranny with all accessories, ECU, pedal, etc. for dirt cheap so that I could do a budget build. Sinking $6k just for the motor is a huge jump in total budget cost. Since I was only looking for the engine to be around 400hp and was going to expect 550hp on the juice, this is a whole other beast (both price and performance). If I can get it cheap, it will be hard to turn down, but I can't pay the $6500 that originally listed on CL for just the engine and still feel good about my total budget.
03-25-2012, 06:34 PM
#630
He's going to get the full build specs from Texas Speed for me tomorrow, but it's hard when I was thinking about finding a used LQ9 and tranny with all accessories, ECU, pedal, etc. for dirt cheap so that I could do a budget build. Sinking $6k just for the motor is a huge jump in total budget cost. Since I was only looking for the engine to be around 400hp and was going to expect 550hp on the juice, this is a whole other beast (both price and performance). If I can get it cheap, it will be hard to turn down, but I can't pay the $6500 that originally listed on CL for just the engine and still feel good about my total budget.
03-26-2012, 05:36 PM
#631
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He's going to get the full build specs from Texas Speed for me tomorrow, but it's hard when I was thinking about finding a used LQ9 and tranny with all accessories, ECU, pedal, etc. for dirt cheap so that I could do a budget build. Sinking $6k just for the motor is a huge jump in total budget cost. Since I was only looking for the engine to be around 400hp and was going to expect 550hp on the juice, this is a whole other beast (both price and performance). If I can get it cheap, it will be hard to turn down, but I can't pay the $6500 that originally listed on CL for just the engine and still feel good about my total budget.
03-26-2012, 05:48 PM
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The more that I've thought about it, I just can't justify the cost. I've been looking at deals where I could get a used motor, tranny, accessories, ECU, pedal, harness, etc.. all for sub 4k. Having to source everything separately if I buy a built motor is just going to raise the cost everywhere else, and I'd need a built tranny at that point, etc.
I'm just going to stick to my "poor boy" budget/plan and get an iron block in there and running and enjoy it in the 400hp/400tq range, and safely throw the NANO at it when I want her to make me squeal like a school girl. With the remote opener, the progressive controller, and the NANO - the nitrous is always ready at the flip of a switch and pretty darn safe from a tuning standpoint since consistent pressure is maintained. I think that will be plenty for me, and should be a dirt cheap LS build.
And if I decide later that I need MOAR POWAR, I can replace the heads, build the block, and/or throw some FI nonsense at it.
I'm just going to stick to my "poor boy" budget/plan and get an iron block in there and running and enjoy it in the 400hp/400tq range, and safely throw the NANO at it when I want her to make me squeal like a school girl. With the remote opener, the progressive controller, and the NANO - the nitrous is always ready at the flip of a switch and pretty darn safe from a tuning standpoint since consistent pressure is maintained. I think that will be plenty for me, and should be a dirt cheap LS build.
And if I decide later that I need MOAR POWAR, I can replace the heads, build the block, and/or throw some FI nonsense at it.
Last edited by SparkleCityHop; 03-26-2012 at 05:50 PM.
03-26-2012, 07:32 PM
#633
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The more that I've thought about it, I just can't justify the cost. I've been looking at deals where I could get a used motor, tranny, accessories, ECU, pedal, harness, etc.. all for sub 4k. Having to source everything separately if I buy a built motor is just going to raise the cost everywhere else, and I'd need a built tranny at that point, etc.
I'm just going to stick to my "poor boy" budget/plan and get an iron block in there and running and enjoy it in the 400hp/400tq range, and safely throw the NANO at it when I want her to make me squeal like a school girl. With the remote opener, the progressive controller, and the NANO - the nitrous is always ready at the flip of a switch and pretty darn safe from a tuning standpoint since consistent pressure is maintained. I think that will be plenty for me, and should be a dirt cheap LS build.
And if I decide later that I need MOAR POWAR, I can replace the heads, build the block, and/or throw some FI nonsense at it.
I'm just going to stick to my "poor boy" budget/plan and get an iron block in there and running and enjoy it in the 400hp/400tq range, and safely throw the NANO at it when I want her to make me squeal like a school girl. With the remote opener, the progressive controller, and the NANO - the nitrous is always ready at the flip of a switch and pretty darn safe from a tuning standpoint since consistent pressure is maintained. I think that will be plenty for me, and should be a dirt cheap LS build.
And if I decide later that I need MOAR POWAR, I can replace the heads, build the block, and/or throw some FI nonsense at it.
03-27-2012, 09:11 AM
#634
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I read last night about the Gen III & Gen IV engines until I couldn't keep my eyes open anymore. I'm trying to learn as much as possible up front, but as long as I can get good answers to the following through additional research, I'm probably starting out with the LQ9:
- will all of the Sikky stuff still work
- are the accessories positions fine for the 350Z bay
- do I need a T56 or can i go with a 4L80E or 4L60E tranny
- what is the cost switching the the L92 heads
- is the truck intake too tall for the 350Z hood
- what is the cost switching to a different intake
- would I be fine with hp tuners or another relatively inexpensive EM
- what is a reasonable street cam and intake combination for this setup
- will I need a return fuel system and more than the walbro I have
A guy within 45 minutes from me has his built LQ9 for sale on Craiglist that dyno'ed 650hp, so I feel pretty good about "growth room" with this block: http://greenville.craigslist.org/pts/2910997515.html
^I messaged the guy and he's pretty eager to sell me that engine. 650hp seems a little crazy for something that I want to be able to use on the street, though. This is the link to the block: http://www.texas-speed.com/p-655-tsp...ong-block.aspx It's never been installed, still on his engine stand and he even still has the crate. It's hard for me to justify spending that much on the engine alone when I was planning on doing a budget LQ9 build, but it looks pretty nice. Maybe he'll take $4k for it.
- will all of the Sikky stuff still work
- are the accessories positions fine for the 350Z bay
- do I need a T56 or can i go with a 4L80E or 4L60E tranny
- what is the cost switching the the L92 heads
- is the truck intake too tall for the 350Z hood
- what is the cost switching to a different intake
- would I be fine with hp tuners or another relatively inexpensive EM
- what is a reasonable street cam and intake combination for this setup
- will I need a return fuel system and more than the walbro I have
A guy within 45 minutes from me has his built LQ9 for sale on Craiglist that dyno'ed 650hp, so I feel pretty good about "growth room" with this block: http://greenville.craigslist.org/pts/2910997515.html
^I messaged the guy and he's pretty eager to sell me that engine. 650hp seems a little crazy for something that I want to be able to use on the street, though. This is the link to the block: http://www.texas-speed.com/p-655-tsp...ong-block.aspx It's never been installed, still on his engine stand and he even still has the crate. It's hard for me to justify spending that much on the engine alone when I was planning on doing a budget LQ9 build, but it looks pretty nice. Maybe he'll take $4k for it.
All of the sikky swap kit will work and fueled racing
With either kit if you use a t56 and it is out of a F - body you will need the GTO shifter lever.
The truck intake will clear the hood fine they are just meant for lower end TQ since it was in a truck.
L92 heads you can find a dime a dozen on most any forums. They work great to get the compression up on the LQ9's
Just with bolt ons on my LQ9 i made 470hp and 438tq and have yet to get time to make some NO2 runs. If you have a good tuner 200 shot is fine for track use other wise for safer street runs i would do a 150.
Hp tuners is great for the stock ECU thats what i and a bunch of other people are using.
I ran a fuel return with CJM fuel correction kit.
If you have any questions feel free to PM me
03-27-2012, 03:20 PM
#635
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You'll hate having said this by the end of the year 
It definitely sounds like you've gone down the path that I'm headed, so thanks. I will definitely be hitting you up for questions.
Also, I'm not sure if any of you guys are going to ZDayz or any other events in the SC/NC/TN/GA areas this season, but I would LOVE to see, hear, and possibly ride along if you are. My first hand experience so far is standing beside Nick's blue beast that CIN built for him (LS with dual rear mount turbos), watching you guys' build threads, and listening to YouTube videos.
It definitely sounds like you've gone down the path that I'm headed, so thanks. I will definitely be hitting you up for questions.
Also, I'm not sure if any of you guys are going to ZDayz or any other events in the SC/NC/TN/GA areas this season, but I would LOVE to see, hear, and possibly ride along if you are. My first hand experience so far is standing beside Nick's blue beast that CIN built for him (LS with dual rear mount turbos), watching you guys' build threads, and listening to YouTube videos.
04-02-2012, 07:21 AM
#637
Registered User
You'll hate having said this by the end of the year
It definitely sounds like you've gone down the path that I'm headed, so thanks. I will definitely be hitting you up for questions.
Also, I'm not sure if any of you guys are going to ZDayz or any other events in the SC/NC/TN/GA areas this season, but I would LOVE to see, hear, and possibly ride along if you are. My first hand experience so far is standing beside Nick's blue beast that CIN built for him (LS with dual rear mount turbos), watching you guys' build threads, and listening to YouTube videos.
It definitely sounds like you've gone down the path that I'm headed, so thanks. I will definitely be hitting you up for questions.
Also, I'm not sure if any of you guys are going to ZDayz or any other events in the SC/NC/TN/GA areas this season, but I would LOVE to see, hear, and possibly ride along if you are. My first hand experience so far is standing beside Nick's blue beast that CIN built for him (LS with dual rear mount turbos), watching you guys' build threads, and listening to YouTube videos.
04-02-2012, 11:26 PM
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Man, loving these updates. I had a t56 built and shipped out to me this month, and I pulled the trigger on a 4.8 from a 2001 sierra. Glad to see the progress you've made, bbs.
04-10-2012, 05:48 AM
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ok guys ive read alot of stuff about your ls1 swaps; i must say im amazed about all the information i've gathered. im confused about a few things tho and have a few questions.
I live in CA and in 2013 they are moving to an OBDII test instead of the sniffer
From what ive read from other states (mainly texas) the test only checks to see if all the smog equipment is in the "ready" state (i.e. cats, evap system, etc.)
now i know that this swap WILL NOT pass bar. which means ima have to know a person for the visual part of the smog test. However im worried about the ecu throwing codes or any of the equipment not being in ready position and automatically failing the test know matter who i know.
anyway around this? have i missed something in this thread that maybe could help my question??
I live in CA and in 2013 they are moving to an OBDII test instead of the sniffer
From what ive read from other states (mainly texas) the test only checks to see if all the smog equipment is in the "ready" state (i.e. cats, evap system, etc.)
now i know that this swap WILL NOT pass bar. which means ima have to know a person for the visual part of the smog test. However im worried about the ecu throwing codes or any of the equipment not being in ready position and automatically failing the test know matter who i know.
anyway around this? have i missed something in this thread that maybe could help my question??
04-10-2012, 08:08 AM
#640
Registered User
ok guys ive read alot of stuff about your ls1 swaps; i must say im amazed about all the information i've gathered. im confused about a few things tho and have a few questions.
I live in CA and in 2013 they are moving to an OBDII test instead of the sniffer
From what ive read from other states (mainly texas) the test only checks to see if all the smog equipment is in the "ready" state (i.e. cats, evap system, etc.)
now i know that this swap WILL NOT pass bar. which means ima have to know a person for the visual part of the smog test. However im worried about the ecu throwing codes or any of the equipment not being in ready position and automatically failing the test know matter who i know.
anyway around this? have i missed something in this thread that maybe could help my question??
I live in CA and in 2013 they are moving to an OBDII test instead of the sniffer
From what ive read from other states (mainly texas) the test only checks to see if all the smog equipment is in the "ready" state (i.e. cats, evap system, etc.)
now i know that this swap WILL NOT pass bar. which means ima have to know a person for the visual part of the smog test. However im worried about the ecu throwing codes or any of the equipment not being in ready position and automatically failing the test know matter who i know.
anyway around this? have i missed something in this thread that maybe could help my question??
We make emissions compliant harnesses in order to retain all of the purge, evap, egr, secondary cats, ect. If it just reads for it to be in the ready position and does not need the vin on the ECU to match the VIN on the car then you will be good to go.