My 2JZ-GTE VVTI swap thread.
The following 2 users liked this post by Resmarted:
Classy (08-28-2015),
HRMoneyPit (11-23-2015)
The following users liked this post:
HRMoneyPit (11-23-2015)
#425
Cams are in and head is bolted on.
Its official, I have the worst luck when it comes to building cars. This is just an example:
Not sure what happened here "valve cover:
From broken timing gear:
And we are having a hard time with the Collins adapter. When ever we bolt the tranny its not lining up with the engine. The tranny is angled a little to the driver side, so the shifter is not lining up. Already sent him an email and still waiting for his response.
Its official, I have the worst luck when it comes to building cars. This is just an example:
Not sure what happened here "valve cover:
From broken timing gear:
And we are having a hard time with the Collins adapter. When ever we bolt the tranny its not lining up with the engine. The tranny is angled a little to the driver side, so the shifter is not lining up. Already sent him an email and still waiting for his response.
Last edited by midz350; 09-05-2015 at 09:47 AM.
#426
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
The adapter sucks, but the timing gear isnt too horrible. There are millions out there for the 2j. Just get another.
Valve cover you could just repair. Hell even jb weld would do the job. Get it working then if you want to replace it with a nice one. There could be a flaw in the cover and the metal fatigued especially if someone over tightened it or didnt do the correct bolt down order.
As for the adapter, get a micrometer and check all the surfaces to be flat and true.
I've had to replace all sorts of things you arent supposed to need to on my build. That's just how things are when you take them apart. And mine was expensive too. Just remember the more times you build things, the more times these little things can and will happen. I've never once seen an engine swap or rebuild go completely smoothly.
Valve cover you could just repair. Hell even jb weld would do the job. Get it working then if you want to replace it with a nice one. There could be a flaw in the cover and the metal fatigued especially if someone over tightened it or didnt do the correct bolt down order.
As for the adapter, get a micrometer and check all the surfaces to be flat and true.
I've had to replace all sorts of things you arent supposed to need to on my build. That's just how things are when you take them apart. And mine was expensive too. Just remember the more times you build things, the more times these little things can and will happen. I've never once seen an engine swap or rebuild go completely smoothly.
Last edited by Resmarted; 09-05-2015 at 11:44 AM.
#427
Small update,
We managed to make the adaptor to fit, but couldn't find the FW ARP bolts. After talking to some other customers turns out their kits were shipped also without the bolts too.
I contacted Brett, he said I have to pay for new ones which I didn't mind. Later he told me he is busy and I should find them somewhere else!!!
Anyway, I ordered them from Summit Racing and ordered the Mishimoto radiator + fan and shroud kit from CZP.
We managed to make the adaptor to fit, but couldn't find the FW ARP bolts. After talking to some other customers turns out their kits were shipped also without the bolts too.
I contacted Brett, he said I have to pay for new ones which I didn't mind. Later he told me he is busy and I should find them somewhere else!!!
Anyway, I ordered them from Summit Racing and ordered the Mishimoto radiator + fan and shroud kit from CZP.
#431
I have a custom front support and custom engine mounts. These mounts are designed with the ability to move the engine back/front 1 inch either way.
I want to push it forward to center the shifter and the shop want to push it back because of center of gravity and see if we can use the light blastic OEM custom front support
Once we have the engine back in and find the sweet spot will post pics.
I want to push it forward to center the shifter and the shop want to push it back because of center of gravity and see if we can use the light blastic OEM custom front support
Once we have the engine back in and find the sweet spot will post pics.
#433
The car is running again
Had to redo the wiring just to make sure.
The shop pushed the engine back more, so they will take it today to fix the downpipe and exhaust.
They said they had to shorten the Hoke shifter more, but I don't know how they did it. It set little to the back and to the driver side.
And received the Mishimoto radiator and fans.
Had to redo the wiring just to make sure.
The shop pushed the engine back more, so they will take it today to fix the downpipe and exhaust.
They said they had to shorten the Hoke shifter more, but I don't know how they did it. It set little to the back and to the driver side.
And received the Mishimoto radiator and fans.
The following users liked this post:
Resmarted (12-13-2015)
The following users liked this post:
Resmarted (12-13-2015)
#439
Thanks.
I haven't driven it yet and already start think about changing the turbo, clutch, fuel system and crank pulley and go for 1000whp
But I should spend the money on a new daily drive instead. Considering a 2011-12 Infiniti M56S or a 2009-10 M3 E92. Still haven't decided yet.
#440
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Thanks.
I haven't driven it yet and already start think about changing the turbo, clutch, fuel system and crank pulley and go for 1000whp
But I should spend the money on a new daily drive instead. Considering a 2011-12 Infiniti M56S or a 2009-10 M3 E92. Still haven't decided yet.
I haven't driven it yet and already start think about changing the turbo, clutch, fuel system and crank pulley and go for 1000whp
But I should spend the money on a new daily drive instead. Considering a 2011-12 Infiniti M56S or a 2009-10 M3 E92. Still haven't decided yet.
I would probably be beating on that engine. The ratios are very good in it for longevity