Brand New Rebuilt VQ35HR
 

I have a freshly built VQ35HR that I just picked up from the machine shop. I removed it from my Z in effort to build it and couple it to a Greddy TT Kit. I got talked out of that build and sold my Kit and all the supporting mods so that I can go with a RB26 instead. My engine was built initially for myself and is completely legitimate with no short cuts, as I was going to be the person daily driving it. I wanted the best parts and assembly so you are not getting an engine I just “threw together”, this was from the beginning a great setup. The following is a list of things that I have done to the engine:

1. .020 overbore 3.5L VQ35HR Engine
2. New Low compression (8.5:1) CP Racing Pistons .020 over
3. New Brian Crower BC625 Connecting Rods+ w/ARP Custom Age 625+ Fasteners
4. New ARP L19 Head & Main Stud Kit
5. All New Bearings and Gaskets

I also am including the complete engine harness, ECU that is equipped with Osiris Software, clutch, A/C, Power Steering, Belts, Pulleys, Everything. Engine comes complete minus headers.
The engine is prepped for boost yet would be fine for N/A power for the time being because of its extra bore. I have not installed it in any car since it came back from the engine shop. Work was performed at Weisner & Cerato in Modesto, Ca. I can provide many more pictures of the engine and supporting parts.

I also have the transmission that was coupled with it for sale. The Transmission has about 45,000 miles on it. Transmission performs perfectly and silky smooth. I will give you the stock clutch as well, it has no slippage or major imperfections.

Asking $5,500 for everything obo. Will split PayPal and Shipping 50/50 with buyer. I can do engine and transmission separately as well. Thanks!

More Pics

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Nice lookin engine.
You say that it would be fine for the time being N/A. Would runninv N/A for an extended time cause any negative effects?

Running it N/A
 

Running N/A on a low compression setup is taking pressure off of the engine. Stock compression is 10.6:1, this engine setup is 8.5:1. Adding boost to a stock HR engine is ok, however you can only push it to a certain "safe" limit of power and boost of about 450-500 whp (I've seen higher, about 550 to the wheels but how long that will last I'm not sure...). My engine is already setup for boost so that you can safely sustain 600 whp or more without pushing the engine to it's limit and teetering on the edge of blowing it. If you put low compression pistons on a stock block engine the power will decrease if you leave it N/A, yet once you add boost you can safely gain more power by increasing the amount of psi you are able to run. Also, the pistons are forged, which means they are much stronger to take the abuse of a forced induction setup. Since my HR is now 3.8 in displacement vs the stock 3.5, this engine will have more power and torque to offset the low compression pistons if you keep it N/A for a while.
Short answer: running N/A on this engine will not harm it whatsoever.

damn this is a killer deal, if i can come up with the money ill will buy this.
very nice build. sounds like you did it right!

great price from a legit seller

Did you put aftermarket sleeves in or is it stock.

It is not sleeved.

stock crank? or aftermarket

Stock crank, all things done to this engine are listed in the description, nothing more, nothing less. Thanks for the questions though.

Im Just making sure. I dont want to buy a motor and not know what im getting. But I do appreciate you answering my questions

Oh yes, no problem, I completely understand. :)

More Pics
 

More engine pix. I tried to load the pics of the Brian Crower rods but for some reason they would not load, I thinnk they are too big in size. I can however e-mail them to you if you want to see them. I have many more pics to go with these, about 50 in total. I have pics of engine being built at the Machine Shop, so feel free to ask for them if you are interested! Thanks!

You should post up your asking price for the engine and transmission separate. Since your willing to sell them separate.

Sure, no problem

$4,500 for engine and all it's accessories

$1,000 for transmission

Bump

so is it 3.78L or bored 0.20" over

a 3.5L to 3.78L is a 4mm overbore or 0.15" (95.5 to 99.5mm with 81.4mm stock crank)

a 0.20" overbore would be a 100.5mm cylinder at 3.87L

They dont even make a headgasket for a 100.5mm bore cylinder

Please clarify...

Engine Specs
 

I am no engine pro, but I have .20 overbore pistons. The engine shop made sure everything fit the way it is supposed to. I have the specs sheet for this job posted below. I just got off the phone with the gentleman at the machine shop and he confirmed that it is the correct information but the date at the top of the spec sheet is the wrong date. It is confirmed that everything is perfectly in spec. Does this clarify the question?

I believe you have .020" over pistons, not .200" over.....

20 over is 20 thousandths of an inch, not 200

The 3.78 on your spec sheet is in INCHES, 3.78 inches is the diameter of the pistion, = 96mm, stock bore is 95.5mm or 3.76", so 1/2 a mm over, or about .020

It's more like a 3.536 Liter, VS 3.498 Liter Stock