engine bogs down at 5k rpm with WOT
 

This just happened to me today, and does it everytime, only when engine is at wide open throttle, the car will start to bog down at 5k rpm's. has never done this before, i was in the engine bay last night geting the heater to work, now the heater will work fine, but this happens, i was messing with something with a green cap on the passenger side, looked like an air valve, i pressed it down and air came out. any possible way this messed something up ? btw this green cap is on a metal rail that leads to the intake manifold.

wow, must have stumped a couple of guys here, i took it up to the dealer and they said it had nothing to do with the evap screw cap that i messed with. more than likey one guy said that it has something to do with my air flow sensor. im about to try and take it off and see if there is stuff inside it, he said with an oil type filter for the supercharger that oil could come off the filter and mess up the o2 sensor from the intake .

can anyone atleast tell me if this sounds like a LIMP MODE issue ? I unplugged the wire harness going to the MAF, car did the same thing. i am able to drive the car to red line in each gear as long as it doesn't hit WOT... come on guys, i've searched and found nothing, even went to the dealer and asked a friend of mine up there, he didn't have an answer really.... :(

I had a severe "limp mode" at about 5000 rpm and it was sluggish and back firing all the way to 6000 rpm. It was the wires to my maf sensor. They were frayed. After replacing the wires I replaced the plugs and reset the ecu and now it is all better.

my wires look fine, anything else ? :(

my car will go to redline as long as the car is not at wot.

My car had a "bog" or hesitation at 5000 rpm at wide open throttle and acted the same way yours is. Thing is, my car wouldnt rev past 5000 rpm even if i held the throttle at full. We looked at everything and after all that, we sent the R4 back to split second. They called me the day they got it in and tested it. The box had a bad output signal so they replaced the TMC board and now my car pulls like a champ. Last dynoed 418 rwhp on a mustang dynometer...

mine went limp at 2000rpm with barely ANY throttle....Z1 told me I probably just had to take it to the dealer and get my codes cleared. I didn't do that because the same day I planned to ship my ecu to Technosquare. I got it back yesterday and the CEL was off again.

BTW- did your slip light or cel come on?

i took it to the dealer and they cleared everything. car still bogs down.

check the r4 box

I have the issue in high boost right around 5000 but it is the TCS kicking in and killing the engine, I guess the wheels are spining a bit.

i guess i will ask this here, if my r4 software isn't working, (unable to connect to the laptop), and the ss box doesn't have a power light to see if it even has power, should my car run normal ? except when it gets to full boost ? WOT ? people are saying that it could be the software, if i took the ss box out of the car completely, would the car run at all ? or is this not possible.

Im not for sure , but I dont see why it wouldnt run with out it . You would just have to take it easy , and not get into boost . The SS box taps into the wires going to your ECU . You stated you cant connect to the ECU with the R4 and a lap top . Were you able to before and cant do it now ? If so I would contact Split Second and see what to do about it . If you have never been able to connect . Try a different com port

well, i know why my laptop won't connect to the r4 software, i was trying to use a serial 9pin/usb connector, on the split second web page it says it must be a serial to serial cable.

If you havent changed any thing in the in the system settings . I dont think any thing has changed by its self to make you bog down .

Did you check the fuse for the SS box under the hood?

i see a fuse, but it leads down to the aux fuel pump i think, i really have no idea, it's in a yellow holder with a blue fuse in it, is that the ss box fuse ? or something else

I believe thats it, mine is yellow. Can you test / replace it with a new one?

guess i could, but don't need to know, i got the 9pinserial/usb adapter to work,
here are a couple of screen shots.

the first shot is of me doing a 1st gear run to redline.
http://members.cox.net/rayraypriest/30mphrev.jpg


the second shot is me sitting still and reving close to redline.

http://members.cox.net/rayraypriest/0mphreving.jpg

also, if i do a pull from the air/fuel it says 10.2 across the board, but my aem wideband at idle says 15.2-15.6,

this is a clip from an email that i was sent, does anything think this could be the problem ? even if i can go to full redline if i don't go wot.


"Finally, as I said, it sounds to me like you have a boost leak if the problem only occurs when you are under boost. At 5000 rpm you are boosting between 4.5 & 5.5 PSI which may be just enough to open a coupler that is not tight enough."