Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Yeah, I would expect that the 1350kg PP twin to be suitable for 650-700whp.

paranormal

iTrader: (1)

How do the stock axels hold up around that HP?

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

Hey Sharif...has anyone considered doing something like this?

http://forums.thevboard.com/viewtopi...+guard&start=0

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

For street use, they will hold up fine. However, at the track, especially with a hard launch or drag radials, they will eventually break.

If you plan to run 550whp+, I would begin to recommend Darton sleeves for the blocks these days. Going with a Darton sleeve also permits you to run a 100mm bore size, which will bring total displacement up to 3.84L. It's the poor man's stroker kit. Arias can make a piston in any bore size...made to order. I think the stock block can take 600whp+, but it depends on how hard you drive the car, and longevity is anyone's guess.

G3po

iTrader: (8)

If you and Rob decide to stroke your new block , you def should consider sleeves, just because the added stroke alone will increase side loading on the cylinders. But honestly if you are going that far (mega bucks), I'd consider a max bore as well.

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

BTW if its as easy as it seems to use this block guard it could be installed easily during the upgrade to forged internals...we just need a machine shop to make them...Sharif you wouldn't know anyone who could do that would you?

barthelb

Yeah, were probably gonna Bore & Stroke it now. I don't want to do it wrong at this stage. The crank is near or completed by now. I can't wait to see it. The crank alone gives me a 3.8L w/ the overbore spec'd it should make me a 4.1 or 4.2 not sure tho. I can't wait tho.

LOU

iTrader: (2)

Damn it! I should have blown up my engine after the new crankshaft was tested. If anyone needs more torque, it's me! Oh well...

ZRAYGO

Arise Lord Vader!!!....

Sharif, You Have Been Anointed 'the One'...

paranormal

iTrader: (1)

sharrif i see that you dont have sleeves but you do have headwork correct? did you upgrad the valvesprings and shims or any of the head components? i am personnally going to try to hit 600rwhp also... and im wondering what kind of headwork is needed if its needed at all.. is it a must at these levels.. i dont plan to keep it at that level .. for every day my goal is 550 but i would love to know that i could go into the 600 if i wanted too..lol

im sooo jealous!

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Right now, JWT cams, springs, porting work. Stock valves, and stock sleeves. Becuase the stock cam tends to peak your power at about 6200rpm, it might be difficult to get to 600whp with a stock cam and pump gas. Not impossible, just more difficult.

RedLeader

iTrader: (9)

Sharif-
I thought I saw a "400hp" post and then this one. Didn't anybody post a 500whp Club for those of us that are "under-achievers"?

Bruce

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Haha....Bruce...you are the perfect candidate for the 500whp thread starter. 500whp is nothing to sneeze at. Anything above that, and these cars are pretty crazy to drive on the street below 60mph.

barthelb

No kidding, And thats why for street i will probably have your boost settings. 525whp is probably all i want for one map, then i will have the kill stick map that will put down who knows what. But as time progresses we shall see.

RedLeader

iTrader: (9)

At what point are those of you with big horsepower upgrading to 3" exhausts? And, which is the greater reason to do so: To reduce the restriction so you can make power, or to evacuate heat from the engine? If I don't aspire to 600hp, am I good with 2.5", or would I run cooler and have better longevity with a larger system?

Thanks,

Bruce

barthelb

I personally don't want a 3" exhaust. I have the Nismo exhaust which is pretty big so it might be 3" in the mid pipe. I was just thinking about getting the Nismo exhaust custom made to 3" throughout. I don't want it any louder so I don't know what Im gonna do yet.

I would say for the cooling aid is why i would do it.

G3po

iTrader: (8)

To reduce both heat and spool time, having bigger up front buys more than out back. Basically the best bang for the buck should be had by upsizing front to rear . For example in this sequence most effective to least. Also as you add volume towards the rear any ehust iwll get louder.

1) TPs (like the new APS 3.5"ers)
2) mid pipe and resonator second (can easily be custom made)
3) Rear can (cans) last.

Starting with a Stillen setup ,I'd personally replace 1) and test , then add 2 and test. The resonators could be replaced with straight 3" mufflers such as Dynomax or Magnaflow. This may yield the best compromise between performance vs. loudness IMO.

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

Hey Bruce, the 2.5 inch true dual systems are good for about 500whp or so. Beyond that...a 2.75 or 3 inch system would provide nice gains, and allow you to acheive more power with less boost. Zero backpressure results in faster turbocharger spool up, and dramatically decreased thermal load on the motor. This will reduce the chances of detonation at a give boost level.

As mentioned, a 3 inch exhuast is going to be significantly louder than a 2.5incher.

paranormal

iTrader: (1)

that is true on the 05 and below engine.. what do you think about the 300hp rated engine with the aggresive "stock" cams..?

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

The 05 Revup motor is definately camed and flowed to run more power further into the power band. But I am not certain of the actual outcome, becuase we havent tuned an 05 revup motor to 500whp+ yet...just the 287hp motors.