Why do it if the engine's going to blow?
 

I'm done with doing all the N/A bolt ons, and I'm pretty satisfied with the results. But, as you all predicted, I want to go F/I now for that extra boost.

I told my tuner (GT Motorsports in Rancho) that I'm planning on getting a Vortech with the 9lb pulley (goal of 380-400 rwhp), and he told me it would be attainable. But, with all the threads I've read about engine's blowing due to F/I, I've been having second thoughts. Alberto's engine blowing put me over the edge, and I'm considering not even doing F/I and stop modding my car ( I love modding the car, but not if its ultimately going to blow the engine).

I need some reassurance. With stock internals, Utec, A/F gauges, and a knock sensor that my tuner suggested, would my engine be safe with 380 rwhp? Would I have to be worried constantly if I push the car that something will malfunction?

I don't want to rebuild the engine. I don't have the money for that. I want 380-400 hp safely and without worry. Should I save up and get F/I, or is all this just a lost cause?

Well, my friend, you are in the same boat as I am. I am guessing that if you stay between 350-375 whp with a conservative tune, then MOST LIKELY you'll be fine. I don't know about you, but MOST LIKELY is not good enough for me, so I am going to wait for a year to clear out everything else on my plate, and then do a built motor plus turbo together.
If you wish to take a chance, do NOT do it unless you have s few grand put away for a rebuild should this one blow. Keep in mind though, if you use a core exchange program for a built motor, you'll save a good chunk of change over blowing a motor, sourcing a new one and building it up...

Some will say that 400 and under is fine. I blew my motor ragging the crap out of it with 440rwhp and it took me two months. If you really want to push it hard regularly and not worry, I would suggest 360rwhp or so. It pulls pretty hard in that range. Just make sure to cool that thing with all the right mods. Get a good tune and you should be just fine for many years. IMHO.

The car should pull pretty hard with around 360 hp huh? And it should be safe, right? Has there been any incidents with the engine blowing with under 380 hp?

360whp is over 400 crank hp. Do yourself a favor and don't fall into this "real fun does not beging until after 550whp" trap, as I once did.
However there were a few incidents when cars' engines let go without any signs of problems. I am not mentioning shops or system brands, as it could have happened to any kit. The theory on that one that once in a while you can get a weaker rod from the factory, and this problem only manifests itself when the engine is asked for more then it was intended for...

Bottom line, there is no such thing as 100% safe FI solution. If you don't want to risk, then don't do mods. If you want to go FI and be safe, have some $$ reserved for a potention motor rebuild and have a back-up transportation solution just in case...

Thanks Oleg for the response. Have there been incidents of the motor blowing AFTER it was built? And, what do you suggest upgrading for the internals to support 450-500 rwhp (and how much would it cost)?

There have been cases of built motors breaking. Much fewer then unbuilt, but they were present nonetheless. It is not necessarily due to excess of power though. The reasons here could be:
-Fault on the side of the engine builder
-Poor tuning
-The user pushes the envelope way too far
A 500whp shortblock would set you back by about 3500 for parts and about 2500 in labor (pull and disassemble the motor, attach all the accessories, etc). If you choose to do your turbo during the engine build, you can safe some $$ b/c the tuner will be working on motor already out of the car.
Decent headwork will probably run you a couple of grand too. The most savings can be made by doing the longblock along with the FI.
Now having said all this, with safe power range and good tuning, the odds for the stock block to stay together are STRONGLY IN YOUR FAVOR. But if you are extra paraniod like myself here, well, you got the picture.
Do yourself a favor thogh, don't let anyone, not even your tuner to talk you into it if you don't feel fully comfortable about the potential consequences. Not unless he is willing to cover your blown engine, in the unlikely event of that happening (if someone does that, I'll drive across the country to that shop:D ).

im going back and forth as well i thought instead of buying the turbo kit that i would buy the built block and then save for the turbo kit and have everything pt on at the same time. In adding up the cost im not even sure if i want to do it because at that price i can prolly have a great down payment on a GTR plus the trade in of my 350z? so im not sure what im going to do now? I hate this it makes me wish i would have just bought that supra instead then i would be just looking for some rims and a new paint job:(

Don't go FI if you can't afford to blow the motor. No setup is immune. Its an expense you will face sooner or later. IMO if you go FI and pussy the car, whats the point. I admire Alberto for beating the piss out the car because that's what its for. If you have to worry everytime you press the gas, don't go FI

I already raised that point and got flamed.
A relatively clean Supra with over 70K miles can be sold for $25K if not more.

Regardless of how good you do it-even with all the nice supporting mods and less whp than me and less TQ it can still happen. A good tuner would tell you the same, its a flip of a coin 50/50 shot. Some last 30K+ miles boosted others like me 3000K miles. If you can afford a basic shortblock ($3600 or so) and about $2000 for install you could take the doubt away and be MUCH better off. I know thats basically the price of another Vortech kit just my opinion as Im now on the other side of the fence. But-Ill say because you will be running very conservative power levels and much less TQ than turbo Z's your chances are better. You pay to play, some pay $$$ for a kit and tune, other for a kit and tune AND a rebuild, if your willing to do the ladder go for it, FI is awesome in these cars;) Good luck in deciding.

Ha-thanks...

If you do forged rods like the eagles rods and lower compression pistons and leave the rest of the motor stock would that help again blowing your motor? If not wat else do you need to run 500 whp? Thanks

I'm not sure what a longblock and a shortblock are ... could someone explain?

i personally don't know of any street driven Z/G's that had a total catastrophy on a built motor. todd had a broken ring land, which isn't really a big deal, and some others with problems with the sleeves. unless someone has slipped under my radar, i don't know of any built motors to have a rod sticking out of it.

basically shortblock= block, pistons pins rings crank and rods
longblock= add heads to a shortblock

longblock includes the heads and cams...shortblock is just the bottom end of the engine.

Gurgen blew his built motor twice and is now on his third built motor. There may be more people out there. I already answered the question about my " luck " with F.I. and a stock block:rolleyes: I was pushing way too much though and got away with 7000 miles of abuse at 9 and then 13 psi (100 octane). It may be impossible to know but now I'm trying to figure out what kind of success I could have with a built motor. I don't mind spending the money but I have to have some return!! Yeah...I understand the whole.." you pay to play ". There just have to be a decent amount of play cause I work too hard for my money to buy into a fantasy...

What a bunch of pesimistic posts! I know anything can happen when you go FI, but the original poster wants a Vortech. In the almost 2 years I have been posting here and out of all the Vortech owners on this site I've only seen 2 blown motors. One was booger and he admits he didnt' pull enough timing and the other I don't remember the s/n or circumstances. Those are pretty good odds if you ask me.;)

If your going to stay under 400hp, then your better off saving the money and getting nitrous

The Stillen Stg 2 Kit has a warranty if you are really worried about it.