Haltech boost controler need help
#1
Haltech boost controler need help
Hey guys, I am hoping you can help me figure this one out.
I recently installed a MAC boost controller selonoid/valve hoping to bump my boost from 5psi to 8-9psi. Wired everything up, 3 pin connector blue/red and black wire (pin 2 and 3) went out for a spin and it wold not boost past spring presure of 5.xxpsi.
We tried changing a bunch of parameters and as it sits right now this is what they look like:
Boost Conroller settings:
Proportional = 50
Integral =50
Derivative =0
Control start pressure= 4.0psi
Target boost = 8psi
Output start point (four boxes) 50%. Tried changing this to every number combination I can think of, from one extreme to the next and nothing.
In the Setup menu:
Boost controler: Enabled
Boost controler type: Closed Loop
So with all these settings I went out, took the air compressor out and applied a steady source of pressure to the MAP sensor. I put 15psi on, this was the pressure Haltech was showing (on laptop), as well as the boost/vacuum gauge.
With this 15psi I disconected my wiring, leaving the original 3 pin connector that is wire to the Haltech exposed. Then I stuck two wires in pin two and three, connected the volt meter to them but could not get a voltage. With the Hlatech seeing 15psi as the MAP, it should have opened the valve.
So it looks like the signal (voltage) to regulate the valve is not being sent to the boost conroller.
Any ideas?
I recently installed a MAC boost controller selonoid/valve hoping to bump my boost from 5psi to 8-9psi. Wired everything up, 3 pin connector blue/red and black wire (pin 2 and 3) went out for a spin and it wold not boost past spring presure of 5.xxpsi.
We tried changing a bunch of parameters and as it sits right now this is what they look like:
Boost Conroller settings:
Proportional = 50
Integral =50
Derivative =0
Control start pressure= 4.0psi
Target boost = 8psi
Output start point (four boxes) 50%. Tried changing this to every number combination I can think of, from one extreme to the next and nothing.
In the Setup menu:
Boost controler: Enabled
Boost controler type: Closed Loop
So with all these settings I went out, took the air compressor out and applied a steady source of pressure to the MAP sensor. I put 15psi on, this was the pressure Haltech was showing (on laptop), as well as the boost/vacuum gauge.
With this 15psi I disconected my wiring, leaving the original 3 pin connector that is wire to the Haltech exposed. Then I stuck two wires in pin two and three, connected the volt meter to them but could not get a voltage. With the Hlatech seeing 15psi as the MAP, it should have opened the valve.
So it looks like the signal (voltage) to regulate the valve is not being sent to the boost conroller.
Any ideas?
Last edited by BoostedProbe; 09-07-2009 at 06:12 PM.
#3
Let me just make sure I am doing this right though. With the boost control ebabled I set the boost control type to open loop. I then go to the "Generic Output Settings" and check the top box, select RPM and 0 RPM. Is that right? If not, where do I set the RPM to 0.
EDIT:
A local member that is helping me with this also has the Haltech, with the same boost controller, and we made sure all the settings were the same/matching before going out to see if my car would run.
Last edited by BoostedProbe; 09-08-2009 at 06:31 AM.
#9
Well, I just got home and tried this out. Open loop, set the duty cycle to 50% but could not get the RPM on the x-axis. It does not allowr me to make any changes in the Table setup menu.
Doesn't look like I will have any luck with this. I am begining to think that there is something wrong with this unit. My on board MAP sensor was off by
1psi as well, so I ended up going to an external.
Doesn't look like I will have any luck with this. I am begining to think that there is something wrong with this unit. My on board MAP sensor was off by
1psi as well, so I ended up going to an external.
#10
New Member
iTrader: (18)
After you select "boost control-open loop" on the left hand navigation pane, press F3. Then you have to tick off "enable axis" and then pick "RPM". This is a function of ECU manager - it's not hardware related so even if you were having a problem I don't think it would manifest this way... Can you post a screenshot? Can you get your solenoid to "tick" by applying 12v across the leads and then removing it? You can just use the car battery - connect and disconnect one lead and the solenoid should flip back and forth.
Last edited by rcdash; 09-08-2009 at 06:30 PM.
#11
After you select "boost control-open loop" on the left hand navigation pane, press F3. Then you have to tick off "enable axis" and then pick "RPM". This is a function of ECU manager - it's not hardware related so even if you were having a problem I don't think it would manifest this way... Can you post a screenshot? Can you get your solenoid to "tick" by applying 12v across the leads and then removing it? You can just use the car battery - connect and disconnect one lead and the solenoid should flip back and forth.
I am not sure if the trouble shooting method Hal sugested has to have the RPM axis enabled while in open loop. As it sits right now (open loop no RPM axis) it does not work.
My navigation through the Haltech menus is gettin to be really good now, if there was an up side to all this.
Last edited by BoostedProbe; 09-08-2009 at 06:56 PM.
#15
New Member
iTrader: (18)
If it's not 1.04 (likely is not), go to Tools -> Upgrade Firmware and find the 1.04 firmware file (Haltech-350Z-1.04.0.hfm) in the My Documents->Haltech->Firmware directory on the laptop where you have the ECU manager installed.
#16
I don't think you're running v1.04. The ECU manager version is 1.04 but the firmware (the programming in the physical box must also be 1.04). While the laptop is plugged into the ECU via the USB cable (and the car is switched to ON position or running), check the firmware version as Hal instructed.
If it's not 1.04 (likely is not), go to Tools -> Upgrade Firmware and find the 1.04 firmware file (Haltech-350Z-1.04.0.hfm) in the My Documents->Haltech->Firmware directory on the laptop where you have the ECU manager installed.
If it's not 1.04 (likely is not), go to Tools -> Upgrade Firmware and find the 1.04 firmware file (Haltech-350Z-1.04.0.hfm) in the My Documents->Haltech->Firmware directory on the laptop where you have the ECU manager installed.
Like I said, I upgraded it thinking that it may be causing the problem. I had issues before with o2 correction do to firmware version issues, so I though it may do the trick again. Guess not. Hope that setles that.
I also took a couple of other screen shots, not the greatest quality though. These are all while in Closed Loop mode, maybe you guys can spot something that I may be missing here.
With the settings as pictured above, I again applied 15psi of pressure to the MAP sensor. This, in theory, should at least make the ECU try to regulate the selonoid, but it does not. Unless I am wrong about that.
Last edited by BoostedProbe; 09-08-2009 at 08:26 PM.
#19
New Member
iTrader: (18)
If you apply 15 psi, it will try to turn duty cycle to 0 to get to the target of 8 psi. Correct? I think it should click a couple of times then go to 0 duty cycle. Open loop is much easier to test. Not sure why you're having trouble with that rpm setup for that. Weird. It's much simpler than closed loop to setup...
EDIT: There is a channel for "boost control output" duty cycle I think. Maybe you can display that as a gauge on the laptop? If that is not 0 or 100, then you should be hearing clicking from the solenoid...
EDIT: There is a channel for "boost control output" duty cycle I think. Maybe you can display that as a gauge on the laptop? If that is not 0 or 100, then you should be hearing clicking from the solenoid...
Last edited by rcdash; 09-08-2009 at 08:39 PM.
#20
Hal, I sent the map. Hopefully you have some luck with it.
rcdash, thank you for all your input as well, and to be honest with you I really don't know what to say. I think I have tried everything at this point, and yes you are right it should click a couple of times before going to 0 on duty cycle. When I was testing it (with compressed air) I had my ear next to the selenoid with complete silence in the garage, but could not hear it working. I know it works because I applied 12v to it and it is loud enough for me to hear it anywhere in my garage while it is cycling.
So you are suggesting I run it in open loop if I do get it working? Is that how you have it setup?
rcdash, thank you for all your input as well, and to be honest with you I really don't know what to say. I think I have tried everything at this point, and yes you are right it should click a couple of times before going to 0 on duty cycle. When I was testing it (with compressed air) I had my ear next to the selenoid with complete silence in the garage, but could not hear it working. I know it works because I applied 12v to it and it is loud enough for me to hear it anywhere in my garage while it is cycling.
So you are suggesting I run it in open loop if I do get it working? Is that how you have it setup?