GT-ER

iTrader: (4)

What color is your fluid? If your fluid is still red and doesn't smell burnt then it probably won't need a rebuild, just a new ( again ) valve body. I've rear quite a few stories about stillens VB so I'd look into it.

me1109

iTrader: (1)

its light brown... and what in all have you heard about these stillen VB's?

hypeiv

iTrader: (2)

I still don't get your logic... buying the GTM 5AT will give him a new transmission that can handle all the hp he can throw at it... if he keeps the s/c or buys turbos he will still have to spend the 3-4grand for the GTM 5AT...

so your saying since he already has to spend 3-4 grand he might as well spend another 6+ or so to buy a turbo kit and get it installed?

edit:

back on topic you might be able to find a used stock 5AT in a junkyard for cheap... I just searched car-parts.com for an 05' 5AT and there are a bunch for around a grand...

abushong504

iTrader: (87)

I think I may know your problem. I was having the exact same issue. Upon installing the turbos in my car I purchased a Koyo racing radiator. It was for a manual transmission car. I got it installed and just used the tranny cooler to cool the fluid.

My car would go into limp mode after getting on it pretty hard and I could never figure out what it was. I finally got my tranny temp gauge installed and one day I was sitting in traffic for a very long time on a hot day and the temp gauge got near 300 degrees. My car then went into limp mode. I figured out, the temperature was getting too hot which would cause the limp mode problem.

After researching for a better cooler I figured out this issue: when I got rid of the stock radiator, I got rid of one part of the tranny cooler system. The stock tranny lines are fed through the stock radiator which is how it is cooled normally. So when you get rid of that cooling effect, you are just trying to cool the tranny fluid with that tiny cooler.

Your lines should be ran from your tranny, to your radiator, to your tranny cooler, and then back to your tranny.

This will allow a lot better cooling during stop and go traffic, as the fans will kick on and help cool and also while driving.

My car has yet to go into limp mode sense, and the temp gauge is always in a good range.

I would recommend buying a different radiator that is made for a automatic car and run your lines that way. It will definitely be a lot cheaper than buying a built tranny.

Hope this helps

me1109

iTrader: (1)

hmm yeah... theres actually a particular tranny cooler that i have been looking at its a heat exchanger cause the stock radiator had that effect so as the engine heated up so would the tranny and as the engine cooled the tranny would cool too... yeah i was thinking that it was a over heat problem... on the constant coding... but it doesnt want to shift when you first start it...

edit:
and mine is during heavy running its during mostly high speed passes like 110-130... and sometimes hot days in stop and go traffic but mostly high speed passes... witch is at least once a day...

me1109

iTrader: (1)

BTW whats a good running coolant temp on the Z?

me1109

iTrader: (1)

I like my super charger if any thing i would put a bigger pulley and do the valve train up cause out here in cali we have crap gas big numbers are a lot harder and that the only reason why i would want and turbo kit...

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

For any FI with a 5AT, you need a large, separate transmission cooler! This is just as important as a valve body, if not more important. A transmission temp gauge is also a nice touch. Keep it under 240 degrees F and/or change the ATF more often to compensate for the increased rate of degradation of the ATF at high temps (every 10 deg over 220 cuts ATF life in half or something like that).

I would recommend a BTU rating great than 20,000 and a cooler specific for transmission fluid that allows bypass when the fluid is cold. I chose a tru cool model #4590.

GT-ER

iTrader: (4)

Which of the lines in the radiator is the entry and exit lines? I have a cooler but have yet to install it.

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

As I recall, the hard pipe more towards the passenger side is the outgoing and the driver's side is the return. The temp gauge should be placed after the cooler (in the return plumbing) for stable temp readings.

me1109

iTrader: (1)

i think i will up rate my tranny cooler first...
ie:
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...eat_Exchangers

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

1. Those are not transmission coolers.
2. You will potentially ruin your new cooler, plugging it with clutch material now that the transmission is burnt out. I would highly recommend getting a new cooler when you finally realize that you require a trans rebuild so that you don't contaminate your new trans with old clutch material and/or limit ATF flow due to clogged passages in the cooler.

me1109

iTrader: (1)

of course referring to BIG NUMBERS....

me1109

iTrader: (1)

a trany cooler is just a glorified oil cooler... with those coolers or an equivalent the tranny fluid heats up with the engine... and can not go past boiling point... I have seen dune buggy guys run these for years on 100000 dollar dune buggies, well not this same cooler but heat exchangers...

but i do agree with what you said, i will replace the cooler cause i think its partially responsible for the clutch pack state...

personally i would like to up rate my tranny so i can go with some bigger numbers... the tranny feels like the weakest link in the car...

me1109

iTrader: (1)

So my Z has kinda stopped coding, only codes now when i really beat on the car... but its still kinda getting stuck in first gear when its cold... does any one know why it would be doing it only when its cold...?

shadow191

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to revive such an old thread, but didn't want to post a new one since my issue is somewhat related. So I have a Stillen VB on my FX - actually picked it up on the forum. Came out of an '06, it's compatible w/ my '07 FX. Been installed for 5 months now, maybe 3500 miles and seemed to be working fine.

But a couple of days ago, I get a P1764 code which is direct clutch solenoid valve function. When it happens, CEL comes on and car basically starts and stays in 4th. The direct clutch solenoid is part of the shift process so I guess it makes sense if it goes out, car doesn't shift. If I turn the car off and restart, it's fine for a little while. And if I get it to speed it won't happen. However, if I'm inching through traffic and in a coast then throttle situation, it will come back almost like clockwork. Basically if I'm coasting under 10mph and then get on the throttle it will throw the code most of the time. Fluid is good; red and not burnt. Car shifts fine under full throttle, no slip.

For the time I've had the VB in, the car has had a small issue where if I coast up to a light come to an almost stop and then get back on the gas, it sometimes will free rev and then slam into gear. Not all the time, but a good amount of time. I never gave it much thought since lots of guys on the forums complained about similar things so I figured it was juts normal. But now I'm wondering if it's caused the the same problem.

I still have the OEM VB so I'm leaning toward swapping that back in. But it's a hassle and messy so if there's something easier that I'm not aware of, I'd like to try that first. Oh, and not sure if it's related, but just found out my positive battery cable is a tiny bit loose. It caused an issue the day after this code popped up where the car was dead until I re-positioned it. Only bringing it up since I saw that Titan owners get this code most often after their battery dies. My battery is fine, but didn't know if the loose cable could cause some sort of electrical glitch.

thaw0ut

I feel like i'm experiencing the same problem, 06 AUTO, I have this:

Mishimoto MMOC-F Heavy Duty Transmission Cooler W/ Electric Fan

https://conceptzperformance.com/mish...fan_p_5895.php

and Koyo Radiator

https://conceptzperformance.com/koyo...3-06_p_523.php

Is this transmission cooler not acceptable for our heat levels? If so, what should I be replacing this with?

Darthnismo

Sorry to revive an old thread. I have a 04 touring. I the morning it has a rough shift going from 2nd to 3rd. After it warms up the rough shift arent rough. When i use the manual mode and go from 2nd to 3rd it does the rought shift. What could it be?

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

Change your tranny fluid and filter then report back.

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

there is no transmission fluid filter. but it is easy to drain fluid (measure how much comes out), use new crush washer and replace bolt, fill new Nissan Matic J fluid in exact qty as what came out. Measure to be certain it is properly filled (if you have a model with a dipstick).