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-   -   Car won't start? (https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/494929-car-wont-start.html)

G35cTT Jul 24, 2010 11:59 AM

Car won't start?
 
Prior to my incident car was working fine but having hard time starting and would somewhat hesitate and sputter at times of getting on the gas. Then recently car would not start it threw a P0345 then P0340 also. I got new sensors got a new battery, cleared code, took terminals off batter for reset and still no start. For some reason it sounds like it's not getting fuel but not positive, so checked the ECM fuses and look fine is there a fuel pump fuse as well? Also could this be a crank position sensor even though no code is being thrown? I did change the crank sensor a while back upon changing it the old one did look a bit damaged. Any suggestions please

G35cTT Jul 24, 2010 12:07 PM

1 Attachment(s)
One thing I did notice was these 2 tubes coming off the plenum didn't have any hoses attatched, is this due to running the pathfinder mod?

str8dum1 Jul 26, 2010 07:14 AM

^thats just the lines for the throttle body warmer. nothing that affects starting, esp in the summer.

is the car turning over and just wont catch?

G35cTT Jul 26, 2010 11:50 AM


Originally Posted by str8dum1 (Post 8549051)
^thats just the lines for the throttle body warmer. nothing that affects starting, esp in the summer.

is the car turning over and just wont catch?


Just keeps cranking and doesn't turn over.

G35cTT Jul 28, 2010 11:46 AM

I was told to try to push the car back n forth prior to starting, first go car cranked, 2nd try car hesitated and then backfired and started right up. So I will be replacing this crankshaft position sensor, what a b!#ch after buying the 2 cam sensors ends up being the last sensor I already changed.

G35cTT Jul 31, 2010 02:00 PM

Another thing found when pulling the crankshaft sensor was that it was missing the o ring, and might of caused mine to go bad so fast it had shavings on the tip.

str8dum1 Aug 1, 2010 11:30 AM

nah, shaving are pretty normal. its a magnet and everytime you start your car, the starter wears on your flywheel.

Elperuano Aug 1, 2010 01:20 PM


Originally Posted by G35cTT (Post 8554965)
I was told to try to push the car back n forth prior to starting, first go car cranked, 2nd try car hesitated and then backfired and started right up. So I will be replacing this crankshaft position sensor, what a b!#ch after buying the 2 cam sensors ends up being the last sensor I already changed.

Like a "rock a my baby" type of back n forth? lol...
cool that it worked... what could be the problem if it took some back n forth pushing :icon44: and a lullaby to get it to start?

G35cTT Aug 2, 2010 12:09 PM


Originally Posted by str8dum1 (Post 8562775)
nah, shaving are pretty normal. its a magnet and everytime you start your car, the starter wears on your flywheel.


I see, so does this sensor need to be cleaned every so often of the shavings?

G35cTT Aug 2, 2010 12:13 PM


Originally Posted by Elperuano (Post 8562933)
Like a "rock a my baby" type of back n forth? lol...
cool that it worked... what could be the problem if it took some back n forth pushing :icon44: and a lullaby to get it to start?

backward and forward push. I think I just got lucky when trying it because tried again and it did not work the crankshaft sensor is probably FUBR. New one comes in 2 days so will let you know if it starts right up or another issue arises.

G35cTT Aug 4, 2010 02:04 PM

Got the new crank pos sensor installed but still won't start first throwing a P3045 then a P3040 which both sensors have been replaced. Do I need to reset manually rather than with a OBD II scanner?

Bad2dabone Aug 23, 2010 11:03 AM

any news ??

G35cTT Aug 23, 2010 11:34 AM

The only new thing is my car can be bump started and will start right up after it has been ran but then after a few hours when it cools down it doesn't not start

SniperHunter Aug 23, 2010 02:36 PM

I'm pretty sure you typoed the codes. Crankshaft codes are P0335 - P0349. Also, those codes aren't an indication of just the sensor failing. It could be something more simple like a bad circuit. Since you replaced the sensor, take a look at the wiring around it. Here are the procedures you should follow

* Visually inspect all the wiring and connectors in the circuit
* Check for continuity in the circuit wiring
* Check the operation (voltage) of the camshaft position sensor
* Replace the camshaft position sensor as required
* Check the crankshaft position circuit as well
* Replace circuit wiring and/or connectors as required
* Diagnose/replace the PCM as required

SniperHunter Aug 23, 2010 02:41 PM


Originally Posted by G35cTT (Post 8610464)
The only new thing is my car can be bump started and will start right up after it has been ran but then after a few hours when it cools down it doesn't not start

I've never messed with a camshaft sensor before, but it does sound like wiring/circuitry is the culprit here, because I've experienced similar issues with electronics before. It's simple really, the reason why the car will start and stop when it's hot is because the heat could be creating a soldered-effect on the wiring around the two sensors, heating them enough to create a flowing circuit. But when the car cools off, so do the wires, and thus the circuit is broken again. So take a look at the wiring.

Let me know if that works out.

G35cTT Aug 23, 2010 08:38 PM


Originally Posted by Arnold K. (Post 8610963)
I've never messed with a camshaft sensor before, but it does sound like wiring/circuitry is the culprit here, because I've experienced similar issues with electronics before. It's simple really, the reason why the car will start and stop when it's hot is because the heat could be creating a soldered-effect on the wiring around the two sensors, heating them enough to create a flowing circuit. But when the car cools off, so do the wires, and thus the circuit is broken again. So take a look at the wiring.

Let me know if that works out.

Thanks will let you know what I find.

G35cTT Sep 5, 2010 12:04 AM

Wiring seems to be OK, cleaned/checked all connections still no start, so bumped car and drove around and today P2135 TPS code came on the freeway. Luckily got help to bump the car and drove home in limp mode to scan code and clear. I have been hearing of optimas being brand new testing fine and not having enough cca to start or hold the charge. If it's not one thing it's another :dunno:

Blackbird CPV35 Sep 7, 2010 04:05 PM

Seems we have the exact same issue at the exact same time, maybe it was a timebomb Infiniti put in the cars lol

I read your thread and I have the exact same symptoms, car cranks but wont start, changed all crank and cam sensors, checked codes, checked every fuse (Even checked them with a multimeter for continuity) The only thing that starts the car is a push start. After the car runs for a bit I can start it with the key

Hopefully we can figure this out together

cbcm2435 Sep 7, 2010 04:19 PM

i had a similar problem, it ran fine before i shut it off, then two hours or so later i wouldnt start, it would just crank and never fire, i went to dinner and came back and tried it, and it started right up and it hasnt happened again, so i dont know what the problem was

Blackbird CPV35 Sep 7, 2010 04:53 PM

Id also like to add, I drove it around and it was fine idling around and driving at regular speeds but whenever I gave it 100% TPS it would backfire. It seems like the ignition is cutting out under heavy load. As I was pulling it back into my driveway the cars idle dropped and the car wouldnt start again. Totally clueless


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