lopchild

Hey Dr....

Why'd you get rid of the AEM cold air?? I get one put on tomorrow.....please advise if bad idea...

Dr Bonz

iTrader: (1)

Lop: The AEM is great. Nothing wrong with it at all but I got the ATI Proccharger (a supercharger) and you no longer need or can use the CAI.

daking350

Doc,

How you like the J&S thingey???You going to the EZCA meet in PA??

ZXiMan

Such a fervent thread and no new posts since Jan. 31st??? How or why did this thread die???

ravaz

iTrader: (1)

Well how many times do you want to beat on the same subject.

elektrik_juggernaut

What was discovered in this thread has been used in other threads.......this thread is still a classic, though........i love that quote from the JIC guy........"ATI give me my dream"..........LMAO..........that's always gonna make me laugh

There's a lot of good information in this thread........one of my all time favorites

daddy Z

so what is the answer to up the boost without getting the detonation ?

Dr Bonz

iTrader: (1)

I never had the J&S put on yet. The car is garaged and covered for the winter. I plan on a trip to AA this spring for some upgrades and it'll probably go on then.

12SecZ

Buying something to adjust the timing, adding more fuel doesn't hurt either. Several solutions in the threads, mine is 9 PSI.

ZXiMan

Well, chalk me up as another deto-king.... here is simple proof that the ATI Procharger needs timing retard....

I picked up my Procharged 350Z from Grubbs yesterday afternoon. Too much traffic to get into the boost at all...Once I got home, I dumped 4 gallons of high test 100 octane fuel and topped up with 6 gallons of Chevron 93. I went out at 10:30pm and it was around 45 degrees out....

Car ran like a freakin champ. Absolutely no detonation and loads of power. Drive it for two hours and did around 10-12 wide open throttle runs in 1 and 2 gears (mostly 2nd and 3rd and maybe one 4th on the highway). Ok, no problems....

It's now noon the next day. It's 72 degrees out (even warmer according to the temp gauge inside the car). I still have half a tank left of the 95-96 octane gasoline left....

Massive onset of detonation between 5500 and 6000 rpm. Of course I let out immdiately.

My air fuel ratio is below 12:1 except when you look at my graph, it goes up to 12.2:1 or so at 5500 (about the same place onset of detonation). I'm going to have the FMU tweaked again tommorow on the dyno and have my curve set to 11:1 and see if that gets rid of the deto. I will also try a 50/50 mix of TT105 and see if that will work. If not, I'll be parking my 350Z in the garage until I can afford the J&S....

ATI needs to get a clue.... they recommend 93 octane gasoline AND a 12.6:1 A/F.... If I had tried that, I'd probably have to ADD MYSELF TO THE LIST OF BLOWN ENGINES...

The H.O. kit is not complete. ATI needs to add timing safegaurd and colder copper plugs to their kit. I should have listened....

Vortech where are you?? lol

daking350

That is strange...You would think that it would occure the opposite way..Tuned in the warm weather then the temp drops causing more dense air leading to detonation...Did you change your plugs to the cooler non-platinum?

ZXiMan

In my experience, especially with the intercooled ATI Procharger, I have always had trouble when it gets warmer and not a single problem in colder air...

I had a Dodge Dakota R/T with an ATI Procharger. I used an MSD timing retard module. When it was cold out, I could almost run full timing (maybe pulling 1 degrees of timing per psi) but when it would get warmer I'd have to pull up to 3 degrees. Twice I forgot to retard the timing when it got to 70-80 degrees during the winter months and both times I blew head gaskets...

I went two heat ranges colder than stock on the plugs and they are NGK copper plugs.

Denser air isn't the only factor. Warmer air means hotter combustion chamber temps. Hotter combustion temps can cause pre-ignition which is different than detonation (they sound the same but they aren't caused by the same symptoms). The whole reason for the intercooler is to cool the charge. This makes more power AND staves off detonation/pre-ignition. The warmer the air, the more chance for pre-ignition... I am running 11.5/1 Air/Fuel ratio on the street & I don't think it is running lean in the colder air.

12SecZ

Interesting, my first engine blew in the summer. I wish Stillen would release their OIL COOLER!!

James you should post more, haven't seen too many of your posts and warmer weather is approaching fast! I concur with the colder air theory from first hand experience driving my FI car through the seasons, but others here more edumacated than me think the oppsote Ie colder air is harder on it because it adds more boost. When the summer comes I wonder if my boost level will drop? That will be the true test, either way I will be safe on A/F/ Timing.

daking350

Call B&M and get one of their import oil coolers..Why waste extra money on Stillen crap...http://www.bmracing.com/

12SecZ

I'm gonna do the oil and Tranny Cooler at the same time. My problem will be room. Where to put them? Probably under the car and in the bumper area I hope, it's crammed full already. Stillen's will be designed for my Z, B&M is a Universal and I am not sure on the plumbing. I like B&M and have used their coolers on my FBOD's before but I like Stillen too, I have their body kit and brakes/rotors and get compliments on them all the time. I can wait it is supposed to be out any week.


I am sure there will be an onslought of coolers made just for our car towards summer, patience is one thing I learned the hard way with this car.

ZXiMan

I post alot actually. I've only been on this forum for a little over a month (on a regular basis) and I already have 120 posts..heh.
-----------
Here is an easy way to keep boost levels the same all year round and give you the capability to increase or decrease boost levels manually. Yes, you can control your boost!

I plan on doing this soon.... I used this same exact system on my Dakota after my second blown head gasket.

Get a small inline (external) wastegate on the inlet pipe just before the throttlebody and a FPR (manually adjustable fuel pressure regulator) using a high flow fuel pump. I think I can still use the auxillary fuel pump that came with the H.O. Procharger kit. The beauty of this set up is that I can run a 9 psi pulley but only have to run a maximum of 7 psi. I can even run a maximum of 5psi or 6psi or anything inbetween, depending on where I set the wastegate. The wastegate will bleed off the excess boost and maintain 7 psi to red line. This accomplishes two things. First and formost, far better ADJUSTABILITY for tuning purposes and two, by using a smaller pulley, it ramps up your boost at lower rpm so instead of seeing maximum boost at 6600 rpm, you might see 7psi at 5000-5500 rpm or even less depending on other variables. Imagine what your hp and torque curve would look like if it peaked and mainained 7psi from lets say 5000 rpm to redline? An external electrically controlled wastegate would allow you to see 9psi at around 4500 rpm (given the right choices of pulley combinations and then be able to bleed more pressure off at a preset rpm range (or you could reduce boost 1-2 psi per 1000 rpm..(heh). I am shocked no one has tried this. I learned most of this stuff from Bob Norwood (of twin turbo Farrari fame)when they were tuning my R/T on the dyno and we trashed the EFMU in favor of a manual fuel pressure regulator that could be adjusted for WOT use and an external wastegate. Bob sure knows his sh*t.... with these changes, my R/T hit 355hp and 450pft to the wheels (that's around 420hp and 550pft at the crankshaft.... under the curve I picked up around 40hp between 2500 rpm and 5500 rpm and around 50pft of torque. I used a 9psi pully and ran a maximum of 7-8 psi. It worked and it was reliable from that day on. the bottom end and mid range acceleration was phenominal....

ZXiMan

I still had to use my MSD retard though.... especially for warmer days

12SecZ

I see 9 PSI way before 4500 rpm's, but I am interested in this setup. Would it work on a returnless fuel system where the stock FPR is in the gas tank?

What pump and or FPR would you use?

I am looking for an FPR and higher flowing pump for the stock location (in the tank.) It won't be no big deal to me if I lose one pound in the summer, I am not gonna beat her up in the heat this year.

Dr Bonz

iTrader: (1)

"but others here more edumacated than me think the oppsote Ie colder air is harder on it because it adds more boost. "


Just a point of "Parlimentary Procedure" here Max. Cold air doesn't really give you "more boost" does it? I can see that it gives you more power since cold air is more "efficient" in combustion than warm, but it technically doesn't increase your boost correct?

12SecZ

Yeah it does actually ; cold dense air increases the boost on my guage and it is cold and crisp here, that is why I was wondering if I may lose boost when it warms up. It also may play a factor in tuning your A/F unless it is written into the ECU like my setup. Others may have to retune when it warms up. Sort of like a N20 effect I guess, sending freezing air with gas into the TB. Whether it plays a role in detonation I guess is the issue and I think it does. I could be wrong or slightly wrong wouldn't be the first time on my guage it does make more boost though when very cold and dense.

Just a point of "Parlimentary Procedure"

LOL, I love that line and use it often, I still remember the scene from Animal House.

"I thought you were Pre Med?"

"Pre Med Pre Law same thing " , lol...

edit dribbles..