Damn, 550 with a thicker head gasket. That's hard to argue with and it appears you are dropping some weight as a bonus (based on physical engine size). I agree VR6s sound pretty damn nasty, as well. Yes, it's an unorthodox swap, but looks like it could be pretty awesome.

the vids online do sound a lot like the VQ but lower and a little blat-blattier

This VR6 did not come turbo, but the parts to make a turbo kit are cheap and easy to find. The aftermarcket support for this motor is great by a lot of vendors, some even sponsors on this site. i think it'll be a wash on the weight in the end as the VR6 is a cast iron block.

Just as an example, you can buy a nice set of cams for this motor for about $250.....


Anyways the oil pickup and pan hangle to low for the 350z cross member so i'm going to have to do some custom work there and I'll make sure to post everything as i go so it's documented here. I do not want to raise the engine so i can keep the transmission lined up like it was stock.

In for the blat blat blat

Interesting......

Man it seems like anything but a VQ these days... This swap and alike are cool in Florida and states that don't give a f about emissions. Still cool! Makes me appreciate the old school Greddy and JWT VQ TT kits moreso..

You will not be able to use the ECU replacement haltech. That is hard coded for dual VVT and the normal nissan trigger pattern.

Any universal piggy back will work though. Proefi, haltech sport, vipec, syvec, motec, megasquirt.....

For a project like this, i'd just wire in a megasquirt. Super cheap and has every function nowadays, VVT, flex fuel, boost, spark, fuel, timing etc etc

The VR swap makes sense if you dont have to deal with emissions. The harmonics are better on the VR than the VQ.

Thanks! That's what I needed to know. MS3 was my backup plan but I'll have to install a throttle cable but I hear it's been done before on these cars.

Cable conversion is easy to do. Some simple pedal modifications and a hole in the firewall and you are ready to go. I have pictures of how I did mine.

Please share! Thank you very much!!!!!!

Get a lokar cable pull the stock pedal off and drill a hole a little above the little L piece for the tps sensor, gona have to grind it kinda flat to to avoid binding. Then drill a hold in the firewall behind the pedal for the cable to secure too. Might be able to go a little below the bracket even just be sure to take the pedal sensor off so you don't melt it. Mine comes through a little high so I bolted the cable down tight to flatten the metal some then put a socket on it with extension to bend it the rest of the way into place.

Thanks I'll look at it tonight. Do you have a part number for the cable you used?

kinda OT, but Quamen/ Jerry did you guys install an IAC valve to help with starting when going with a cable pull TB?

i dont unfortinately i think i used a 36 inch lsx throttle cable because it had a similar fitting to the mustang tb i use. pedal ends are all the same so just match up the other end to the tb you have(they have pics online)and order the length you need.

str8 i do not, but its a pretty constant 80 degrees here in hawaii so its not a big deal for me i just pretty much have to wait for the car to warm up before driving which isnt a bad thing. built in safety feature haha

I did not use an IAC either and I didn't have issues but high compression starts easily if the starter has the balls.

Thanks, I look into that more.

Here are some pics of the motor mounts I'm building. Passengers side is easy, but not the drivers side. For this side I removed the oil filter housing and am going to machine a 3/4" plate that bolts where the housing was. I'll machine the inside of the plate so the oil can flow from one side to the other. It'll be o-ring sealed like stock and I'll weld the mount to the outside of the plate. Next will be to mod the oil pump and pan.

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How did you get the stock gauges to work; do you have a CAN bus module? how are people doing this on these cars?

without the stock ECU, you dont. If you piggy back, it will all work except the tach. Same issues with the LS swaps.

Or just replace the dash with a racepak

I talked to some people and it may be that megasquirt's CAN system may be able to get everything working. I need to do a little more research.

I got the drivers side mount/oil passage in today and it fit like a champ. I'll machine it this weekend.

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