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Not much to progress on the car ... I've been cleaning up the ignition timing. I've also been helping a buddy with a rear-mount turbo kit ... earning some side cash and logging some hours on the welder.
A little bit of a hiccup and a shout-out to Link: moving the car in and out of the garage while working on the rear-mount turbo kit and I've been letting the car idle up to temp and about 19minutes into this idle-time the car went from ~900-1000rpm and stalled out. I was rolling a data log so I saved everything down. I reviewed the logs but nothing looked out of place. I uploaded the log / tune to Link's forum and a tech support agent reviewed it and made a few comments about my idle-tune settings (my deadband was set too high). Changes made and I am hopeful this was the issue!
We had a huge snow-storm roll in last week so it'll be another week or so before I can get the car out.
How do you like the Link G4+ and how is the software?
Anything else you need to go with it?
Thanks
TimRod
Love it ... nothing against haltech but I'm glad I jumped over. You can download the software from Links website and give it a dry-run. It's more complicated than my piggyback Haltech but it has more functions and more tables to tune with.
Link does have a few variants of launch control to suite your desires and I think they support no-lift shifting but I think you need a stress/stain-gauge installed (like on a sequential shift trans) I dont know how it'd work with an OEM transmission.
I put another $450 in three AEM pressure sensors to take advantage of the engine protection features. I used the AEM UEGO widebands I had from my previous setup and run closed loop analog (as opposed to CAN) fuel control.
The selling points for me were - the engine protection features, launch control, tuning features(mixture map feature is awesome), has an onboard trigger / oscilloscope built in, idle control, boost control, the software despite being more complicated has a very intuitive 'help menu' built in, and their forum & custom support is top-notch.
The downsides - more complicated software that takes time to get used to, traction control is not nearly as protective as OEM's VDC, I had to tap into the OEM engine harness and re-wire 8 pins off the ECU.
I got the car out today and surer than **** didnt latch my pins and about 3/4 the way through my route f'n thing popped up, vents cracked the windshield, and pushed the roof in! Good lord! I shouldnt be allowed to leave the house. I think I can bend the hood back into place (or at least back 'good enough')...I'm mostly worried about the roof damage ... but I think I can heat it up and push it out. Windshield is $150.
The silver lining - the car ran pretty good...It runs rough until it gets warmed up but the car sounded good in the upper RPM Range. I got data logs and I was drawing some knock signal activity and I can dial timing back in those areas...Also got solid closed loop fuel corrections and with the exception of a few cells most error were between 3% and 8% correction.
Got the car up to a ground breaking 3psi of boost - Baby steps!!
Sucks when the hood pops open, had that happen on a project car many years ago. One reason i have not installed hood pins on current car. Even if you had to reskin the rook with what you have invested would be worth it. Does suck but glad you are safe and the car is for the most part.
In Florida, if you have a cracked or damaged windshield you can get a Brand New one FREE. as they don't want you driving with an obstructed View. Check out your Insurance.
Sucks when the hood pops open, had that happen on a project car many years ago. One reason i have not installed hood pins on current car. Even if you had to reskin the rook with what you have invested would be worth it. Does suck but glad you are safe and the car is for the most part.
Its funny - you hear about it happen to other people and (at least for me) I giggle and tell myself that'll nevvvveeerrrrr be me!! lol ...
To that affect - I hate pins! I really do ... but I had really no choice.
hat tip to Cedric and pointed out Street Bandito who did a kevlar/CF variant ... I dont think I'm that talented though!! I wonder if they still have that mold?
A bubby (I used to skate with) does paintless dent repair and he said heat it up and push on it. I may just let him fix it - he said $500 to $600. call it stupid tax! The roof is what bothers me the most ... the windshield is easy to swap and I can get another hood. Maybe it's time for a dry cf hood?
Originally Posted by OldManZ350
Ah Man, that sucks....
In Florida, if you have a cracked or damaged windshield you can get a Brand New one FREE. as they don't want you driving with an obstructed View. Check out your Insurance.
I have Hagerty so going to insurance would be a bad move ... also I have a $2k deductible. I replaced that little civic a few months back and I think it was $120, so maybe $150 fo the z. Insurance companies would go broke if they did that in colorado ... everyone has a chipped/cracked windshield!!
I was just thinking depending on how the roof comes out, you could buy a carbon roof skin and just overlay it. I wish they made one where you could remove the metal roof panel and use 3m 8115 panel bond and fuse the carbon in solo without the metal skin underneath.
I was just thinking depending on how the roof comes out, you could buy a carbon roof skin and just overlay it. I wish they made one where you could remove the metal roof panel and use 3m 8115 panel bond and fuse the carbon in solo without the metal skin underneath.
absolutely could ... I'm not a huge fan of it but it's an option ...
digging options as of right now ... from where I'm at:
#1 - paintless dent repair (as mentioned above) at a cost around $500-$600, and would likely need repainted
#2 - find another OEM donor roof ... would be a massive PITD to pick-off the donor car, remove the panel, reinstall, and repait
#3 - been chatting with street bandito and they'll cut me a kevlar/carbon variant, didnt mention cost but it's a possibility ... I'm not a huge fan of 'exclusive' one-off parts but this would be a cool piece to have.
#4 - small chance I can find an OEM replacement panel new ... found one at nissan parts deal dot com for $207 but sure-enough it's out of stock & discontinued.
All things considered I'll probably revert back to an OEM hood ... optimally speaking if I can find an OEM pikes peak QX1 white locally / near locally I'll pick it up and reinstall the vents.
If anyone has any leads on a roof panel please let me know!
For what it's worth got the roof pushed out to about as good as its gonna get ... discussing the fix with a few buddies and really looking at the damage, paintless dent repair probably wasnt going to yield results of new. I put two small space heaters in the car pointed at the roof and let the roof get pretty hot ... essentially too hot to touch. Took the round rubber mallet and just pushed it back into place. Required some force but ended up working. Did this in three major areas and just about popped everything into place. I pushed out a handful of smaller areas as best I could but didnt go crazy ...
If nothing more this buys me some time to find a salvaged out donor...
Other than that just working on the aforementioned rear-mount kit for a buddy ...
a little bit of a back story ... I had a bad experience back in 2015-ish where I had the car out for a test drive around my neighborhood and I didnt install the engine-under-tray. Not a big deal, I was just going around to dial in some fuel (or something) and I didnt tie my oil lines and they ended up dragging, partially rupturing and pissed oil the entire route. I dont think the engine lost oil pressure and I dont think I did any damage to the engine but it was definitely a dodged bullet.
Fast-forward ... 2018/2019
With the new radiator/IC setup my previous Z-Speed under-engine-tray isnt compatible and I need something to protect the oil lines/filter/turbo/etc. I picked up a pretty large piece of 1/8" aluminum sheet and I think I'm gonna try a under-carriage tray ... I'm not completely sure of this as it'll add a quite a bit of weight but it may be a smart idea all things considered.
I have the rear piece started but it's a long ways to go...
front piece
even with both these pieces in place I'll have about a 3ft to 4ft gap between that I'll need to purchase more stock. I will likely bolt these to the chassis via OEM mounting points and extra support brackets.
We'll see how it goes ... if it sucks I can scrap the whole thing.
A little update:
made a few cuts and drilled the mounting holes ... and have a solid feel for where the front portion sits. I'm fairly sure I'll need to trim more for the wheel / wheels' radi to clear these smaller 9" wheels and then the 10.5” RPF1s as well and in-front of the wheels too.
I'll look to add a hard mount where the IC bolts to it's hanger and possibly two more on each side. May need to heim-joint somewhere ... open to any suggestions?
fabricated them myself … found a guy with a 2D plasma cutting table …
had a conversation with DPhoenix and he said look into Alumalite … which is a composite aluminum/plastic core that many others are using for underbody. Its roughly 1/3rd the weight. Not too bad at $200 for a 4'x8' sheet will probably need 3 sheets and I may stick with aluminum sheet on the rear of the car. We'll see.
a little update ... going to part out the aluminum sheet I have cut and I actually have two Z-Speed Under-engine trays that I'm gonna part out...it'll help fund the alumalite.
I got the car out last night ... it ran pretty well...I didnt push it into boost much and stayed under 4k rpms. I ran the car longer ... ran over to my sister who lives about 20miles away. I needed to jump-start the car (after leaving my sisters) and I wonder if the cold weather as of late is trashing the battery (I havent had it on the trickle charger the last week or so)?
other than that, I've been helping a buddy do a rear-mount kit. And as much as I dont like rear-mount kits I'm doing my best to make this one respectable - it's actually coming together nicely. My buddy is looking for 8psi and is happy in the 400hp range. I'll get some pictures uploaded once were done.
ahhhhh ... good times ... got the car out last night and tonight annnnnndddddd ... just parked it in the drive (to work on my buddy Reilly's car). Temps are still pretty cold and when I got put it back in the garage it was slicked over with ice. But good lord, for how cold it is, the car cranks for a second and starts (I'm still loving the Link).
making strides on the rear-mount turbo ... interesting setup all things considered and maybe not the 'exact' way I'd do a rear-mount setup but none-the-less things are coming together.
My buddy (Reilly) just graduated with his degree with aeronautics and is working his way through his flight hours ... and he is pretty damn smart on airflow as it relates to airplanes and has offered up some instrumental insight on the topic.
it got me thinking ... Airstrip Attack 2020 is right around the corner ... engine is rebuilt, revised turbo setup (sounds more LS'ish than VQ'ish) car is running well (will need tuned) and I should start a list of things I want to accomplish between now and then...the upside is that the promoter has given me a voucher for 2020 as I wasnt unable to run in 2019.
I want to get an underbody tray / flat-floor fabricated. I want to use the sheet of aluminum for the rear diffuser - I dont mind the extra weight over the rear-wheels as it'll give me a few options for bending/molding the diffuser and allow me to weld on it. From there, a flat-floor using alumalite for the mid ship and front side/splitter ... and further more (see below)
(from above)
It'd be wise to run a OEM front bumper ... seal-off as much as I can and use the principles for openings(the IC opening). Which would mean revise the exhaust layout.
I currently spit out the side just in-front of the driver's side front wheel...I specifically remember choosing this route as I didnt want to molest my (otherwise pristine) hood ... well, that went out the window three weeks ago(FML) ... and, all things considered ... punch the hood ... punch a 5" hole for the exhaust and dual 2.5" holes for the wastegates ... I hate to do it but it is what it is.
That aluminium composite panel is good stuff, I use it in place of flat aluminium sheet where it doesn't have to be bent. It's way lighter which for our chubby 350Z's is a good thing.
