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You have a ton of stuff to read...... I mainly looked at the Link screen shots..... I may have missed what your doing.
Don't know what your problems are but I can Tell you, You will NEVER get your car to IDLE Right with the TB Target Table at 1% in the "0" ROW.
That is just fine in the RPM Range above 2500-3000, but in the 0, ,500, 1000, and 1500 Colums you need to more like 6% and you will need to play with it.
With car running after full warm it, you need to watch the table and see how it behaves and play with that Area of the map.
Also, Ignition Time in the Area plays a Big Part in Quality of Idle. And ofcource every car will be a bit different
TimRod
Thank you Tim! I appreciate the insight and guidance -
Im mostly looking to get up and running (and get this throttle body issue ironed out) but those suggestions will help regardless.
A little bit of an update … been busy with many endeavours and the white z has sorta taken a back seat.
One reason is that I am having IPDM issues where I am not feeding 12volts to the two lines after the relay and lead to the ECU and subsequently feed the motor of the throttle body. With only one throttle body motor circuit getting voltage it’s giving the ecu hell. I had Link test the ECU (which was $100) but they lifetime warranty all their stuff and they verified that the ecu was functioning correctly.
I picked up a few used IPDMs / swapped out relays and it did not solve the issue and I was pretty fed-up with it. Sat on it for a few days and decided to yank out all the remaining electronics in the car and go full PDM. Im definately intimidated by the CAN bus and programable logic but I’m happy to learn it.
I will be going with Link’s Razor and I believe I need two setups.
I also picked up a G4x ECU and I was going to run the G4x in the g35 and keep the G4+ in the z. But as I’m learning the PDM may be between suited with the G4x. Another objective will be getting as much on the CAN bus as I absolutely much as I can.
I will likely have to run a keypad at some point but would like to maintain the OEM signals, lights, wipers along with keeping the OEM braking & traction control features - I dont know how much I can keep but thats the goal
If I go with the G4x than I believe I will need to rebuild the engine harness.
Next steps will be to remove the cabin harnesses and I going to get everything labelled and documented and determine what needs to be carried over.
You Over Think Things and make it way more Complicated than it is........ There is Options for 2 Add-On Wire Looms from LINK.
Originally Posted by bealljk
A little bit of an update … been busy with many endeavours and the white z has sorta taken a back seat.
One reason is that I am having IPDM issues where I am not feeding 12volts to the two lines after the relay and lead to the ECU and subsequently feed the motor of the throttle body. With only one throttle body motor circuit getting voltage it’s giving the ecu hell. I had Link test the ECU (which was $100) but they lifetime warranty all their stuff and they verified that the ecu was functioning correctly.
I picked up a few used IPDMs / swapped out relays and it did not solve the issue and I was pretty fed-up with it. Sat on it for a few days and decided to yank out all the remaining electronics in the car and go full PDM. Im definately intimidated by the CAN bus and programable logic but I’m happy to learn it.
I will be going with Link’s Razor and I believe I need two setups.
I also picked up a G4x ECU and I was going to run the G4x in the g35 and keep the G4+ in the z. But as I’m learning the PDM may be between suited with the G4x. Another objective will be getting as much on the CAN bus as I absolutely much as I can.
I will likely have to run a keypad at some point but would like to maintain the OEM signals, lights, wipers along with keeping the OEM braking & traction control features - I dont know how much I can keep but thats the goal
If I go with the G4x than I believe I will need to rebuild the engine harness.
Next steps will be to remove the cabin harnesses and I going to get everything labelled and documented and determine what needs to be carried over.
I want to get as much as I can off analog and onto CAN. The PDMs optimally need just about everything on CAN to operate optimally.
Im not a huge fan of the OEM engine bay harness and my current harness is in “C” condition so I will happily take this opportunity to rebuild it with higher quality wiring & new connectors. It’ll also really clean-up the cabin of the car.
A little update - have had some time to plan-out / lay-out / construct the engine bay harness and tinker around with the Link PDMs.
In hindsight, it’s was wise to do these at the same time as the ECU has some crossover that’ll save power outputs on the PDM. For instance (and I may change my mind on this one) I can run a signal to a relay for the twin AEM400 pumps rather than take two 25amp outputs - I lose the intelligence with the PDM but it’s not the end of the world. I am going to free-up one of the 25amp circuits to run the cooling fan by running a relay signal to the back of the car. I can power the Link ‘rescue sensors’ from either the PDM or the ECU - both have ups and downs?
The plan will be to mount the ECU near the OEM location and mount the PDMs there as well. I want to run a short (~36”) lead of wires from the ECU to a disconnect located under the triple meter. Utilizing deatsch connectors for each specific cluster of circuits. I think this will be cleaner an will be easier to trouble shoot if needed in the future. The OEM engine bay harness is difficult to feed through the wire port and it’s a huge mess.
I was able to eliminate approximately 15 circuits from the car which helped clean the wire harness up. I did a deep dive on the OEM schematics, Link’s documentation, some creative PDF’ing, and used autocad to lay everything out.
I have not sleeved it yet but I am likely going to use split nylong braid and have have group them by connectors - nothing wildly fancy and will be far less time comsuming.
Next step will be to incorporate the PDMs - I have the PDMs setup and ready to go with very basic logic but will likely enhance this as I get more comfortable with the units. Its rather complex and can be frustrating but its pretty sweet when it works like you expect.
Massive Thank You to Rinzlark for helping me find OEM pin part numbers for ordering!
Some pictures of the madness
Some ‘befores’ of the trainwreck that is the OEM dash-wiring and engine bay harnesses.
I love me some autocad and drafted the engine bay harness in autocad and used the FSM to ensure my circuits are correct. Added the Link g4x into the sketch to layout how everything will sit.
This is just about the entire engine bay harness. For what it’s worth I was able to eliminate 25 circuits. I did my best to make this as ‘module’ as possible even when/where it meant running additional wiring - such as individual power supplies and individual grounds rather than running single 12v power supply or 5v sensor supply. These power sources will also line-up with the Link pdms.
OEM CAN is red & blue and I am swapping over to green and white to match more of the industry standard. This is 18awg wire where most CAN setups are running 20awg or 22awg. I chose 18awg to make it as robust as possible.
This is the throttle body circuit with sheilded wiring and it was a massive pain in the dick … thats all Im going to say…
Link rescue sensors - these will be on existing inputs and I am re-using most of the wiring from before. I will likely redo some of the sensor connectors but it’s a low priority right now.
I did bundle the VTC solenoids, cam/crank position sensors, and IAT sensor into one loom - seemed logical
APP Sensor setup
Incase it’s not apparent - running each circuit fromt he ECU to a checkpoint, which will be located where the OEM heater core would be, and will have a disconnect for each set of circuits. Obviously, the wires will be wrapped with nylon braided split loom.
The OEM harness under the dash will be the next challenge. I will need to maintain the ABS Control unit and the ABS Module along with many other circuits under the dash. The plan will be to keep them in place, eliminate anything I can, and provide power to each via the PDM. I dont anticipate revising much of the OEM wiring as it’s in great condition and I dont know that I can easily find OEM connectors. But some items will be replaced (clutch switches, brake switches, CAN, headlghts/brake lights, signals, etc.
I was able to break-down the harness and determine each wire’s start, finish, color, guage and have it roughly depicted … and the plan will be to get it in autocad, determiner which circuites can be eliminated, which ones will be maintained, and which ones will be revised
07-25-2023, 06:52 AM
