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what if it was like...halfway stuck? I dont know either...
I know! I'm hearing the rush of air out from the underside of the car and staring at my boost gauge wondering wtf?!?!?!?
I never see your thread? wt fork?
My thread is literally in my signature, you replied to my first post on it lol. I'll update it with these new additions, turbo rebuild, and the dissection of my mishimoto "dual pass" (dual crap!) oil cooler.
Anyway post up the schematic of your current boost controller if you have it. I can answer that question if I see how the solenoid is hooked up. I've spent too much time trying to look it up here at work lol
Anyway post up the schematic of your current boost controller if you have it. I can answer that question if I see how the solenoid is hooked up. I've spent too much time trying to look it up here at work lol
its somewhere buried - I am 99.99% sure the BCS is plumbed correctly.
So if it was only able to open half way it would be half way in between venting the top half of your WG's to atmosphere and applying boost pressure to the top half. That would just get you less boost pressure.
Even at worse case scenario if it were leaking out of the vent port from the plenum, it would just get you spring pressure because the turbos would make up for that easily.
Opening up the exhaust should have increased the pressure delta through the turbine housing; giving you a faster spool and more HP per PSI of boost like I experienced.
So if it was only able to open half way it would be half way in between venting the top half of your WG's to atmosphere and applying boost pressure to the top half. That would just get you less boost pressure.
Even at worse case scenario if it were leaking out of the vent port from the plenum, it would just get you spring pressure because the turbos would make up for that easily.
Opening up the exhaust should have increased the pressure delta through the turbine housing; giving you a faster spool and more HP per PSI of boost like I experienced.
You messed up something man! What was it??
thanks for taking the time...
I dont know what I did to cause the problem and/or fix the problem.
I caveat the following by saying I had 30miles of mostly easy driving with a 6 or 8 pulls. During the pulls I was doing my best to drive the car safely, monitor my engine speed, keep an eye on the boost gauge and keep an eye on the oil pressure gauges...and watch for cops/deer/other cars...
I think I was pushing closer to 14psi and it seemed that the time the turbos took to go from ~12 in*hg of vac to 0 in*hg didnt change, but once in positive pressure it seemed the boost pressure climbed faster noticeably faster...
been busy ... was in Hawaii for a week for a buddys wedding and general shenanigans...
The day is set ... May 17, 2018 - 9am ... I will be tuning the car ... sorta excited but sorta scared shirtless...have watched hours of dyno dos and dont videos on youtube and other than not knowing exactly how the shops dyno works exactly - its a superflow AWD (which I'll have their dyno tech with me while I tune) I think I'm ready...years of poking around in the haltech, countless HPA courses/webinars/forum time, help from fellow members, trusty internet reading...
I'll be re-tuning the map that Mac Autosport did about a year ago ... so my fuel should be pretty close (and I've been road tuning my fuel off data logs when I take the car out).
I'm not really happy with my ignition map but I've since smoothed it out and compared it to a handful of known FI maps and starter maps. So it should be close - the shop I'm going to has a load bearing steady state dyno which will help dial in my timing.
With the clock ticking down there are a handful of things I need ... the biggest is probably a set of daily driving type wheels and tires ...
There's a set of V1 track wheels about 90minutes north of me that I had a massive hard-on for. The guy who had them listed on FB marketplace was a general douche ... didnt want to send pictures, said he was flexible on price but didnt want to talk how flexible. Additionally, the wheels were painted black and had minor curb damage and he was looking for $400...
Further browsing on FB I came across a set of OEM 18x8 infinity sports enkeis. The couple that owned them sold the car awhile back with aftermarket wheels and had these left over. A few scuffs on them but nothing major - paid $260 for the set and I have a set of Dunlops Sportmax 245/40/18s thatll go on them. The lbs/hp nerd in me weighted them first thing ... wheels are 22.7lbs and the tires are 25.6lbs.
Made progress on the damn FG hatch...a little more bondo'ing and a ton of sanding...I think I'm all wrapped up with sanding. Did a test fit and everything looks good enough ... maybe a 7/10...gaps are most noticeable on the top side - not gonna freak out about it as it's shaving 50lbs off the car.
and finally ... where'd my 10mm ratchet wrench go??
Lmao, man 10, 14 and 17mm sockets are the tools I loose the most, I feel your pain.
I was stationed in Hawaii (Oahu) for 4 years before Texas. Love that place, wish I never left.
I bought a 10mm replacement ratchet wrench at Home Depot already ... they sell singles (which is pretty cool)
We were in Kona and Hilo - Brides family was all in Hilo so that's were the wedding was ... nuts with the volcanos!
what branch of the service? thanks for your service btw.
Originally Posted by yosip1115
Are there no haltech tuners near you James? That is quite the plan
There are...I think any experienced tuner can tune haltech ... the maps are pretty logical and their base tunes are pretty good from the start. I want the self-satisfaction of doing it myself...sorta a test of what I've learned thus far. I paid $750 for my tune last year knowing that I could use the tune as a starting point to re-tune once I had some more work done on the car.
had fun the last few days putting a pre-base white autoparts store paint (dupli color - which is junk paint) down on the hatch. Wet sanded the primer like crazy and just did light passes with a white paint, wet sanded, more passes, sanded, more wet sanding ... 2 reasons -
#1 - I wanted my learning curve on this junk paint and not the QX1 specific color I have to order
#2 - I wanted a better / closer base color than primer grey...
heres how she sits ...
Also got some street wheels and tires - scoped these OEM infinity enkei 18x8 +43mm ... really unhappy with these - the fronts arent bad but the rears are a train wreck ... offset sucks, minimal clearance on my calipers, they're not nearly as light as the RPF1s ... about 49 - 50lbs per wheel & tire. I tune on thursday and I needed something better than the BFG Comp2s that were on the car. The shop says normal DOT street tires work the best. So I tune Thursday - looking forward to it.
The tires are pretty good and didnt have much slippage on some pulls I did...
Also fixed my steering angle ... not perfect but better, about 2degrees off.
it's was the silver lining to yesterday ... my tuning session was a damn near complete loss ... the best thing about yesterday (other than the wheels and the car drove home) was that the day cost me $125 ...
this particular shop has a great reputation and from the instant I walked in I felt like home. Great group of guys ... but the way my session went it was a rainy day.
I wanted to tune the car myself and I believe I have the ability to permitting I have a good dyno tech that can operate the dyno in a manner that I am used to (what I learned from HPA).
The owner of this shop (who is also their main tuner) was working on another car and he had another tech running the dyno and the car while I made changes. It wasnt very efficient and I think the shop tech was in slightly over his head - and I say this me being the novice tuner...I just didnt have confidence in the way the session was going and I aborted the session after an hour.
with that being said, the shop charged me damn near the absolute minimum and has a credit for on file for me ... which is pretty cool.
If I can get a professional tuner to look at the car before the 15th of June I'll have it re-tuned, otherwise I'll use my previous map for this June event (pikes peak airstrip attack).
deep deep breaths ... success is process
Also, everyone that is reading this - Meatbag is a heck of a guy and has given me some really good pointers ... if I can tune half as well as he does I'll be happy... much appreciated MB!!
got them off the car (to put the RSs on) and cleaned them up. I chemically cleaned them, took a wire wheel to them, took them to the coin-op car wash, and cleaned them with acetone. I sprayed them with etching primer which I'll lightly sand down before giving them another coat of primer. I'll buy some basic / no-frills wheel paint and see if I cant get these back to a simple/basic/square one grey.
After that I'll get the toyos mounted.
(sorry for the lack of pictures)
I watched a really good interview video from a subaru tuner and he made mention that subis can sometime blow-up an engine because the oil pick-up tube disconnects from the oil pump...I have an extra pickup so I ordered some 1/16" stainless steel as close to OEM nissan ID. Salvaged the flange and bulb, sliced the pipe to mimic the angle and welded it all together ... Above and beyond the better material and better welds my current pickup is at OEM height despite running a 1" oil pan spacer ... So I'm going to extend the pipe so the bulb is closer to the bottom of the pan...essentially an extension.
OM F G ... ever wonder how you could get a drill bit in your oil pan? that makes two of us...
I guess...it's a good thing that it's a drill bit and not a metal shard...
regardless ... got a taller pickup fab'd/welded and dry-installed everything looks good...I extended it 3/4" in overall height where my oil pan spacer is 1" ... just to give myself a little tolerance.
Got the rpfs etched primed and will put a base coat of grey down tomorrow...sorta excited for them...
My macbook's trackpad sorta crapped the bed so I'v been down...
Pikes peak is less than a week away ... I actually think I'm doing pretty good - been picking up spare parts, got a helmet and a hans, ironed on patches on the fire suit, got my tires mounted, trimmed(and I use that term lightly) a OEM bumper, the fg hatch is coming along, lexan came in and trimmed for the hatch and I have some QX1 aerosol base/pearl/2k clear for the hatch and bumper. Hoping to figure a way to go lexan door windows(we'll see), Sent the ECU to Uprev for a speed limiter increase. Thoroughly impressed with the guys down there - A+ customer service and didnt oversell me on my needs (if I didnt already think they were a bunch of good guys, they are definitely now!!) ...
a picture is worth 1000words...
Found this bumper on FB market place ... $100 later...
Tried trimming around but it wasnt too effective...
Instead, I went mustache style ...
Picked up three sheets ... this is 1/4" (which is nominally .22") which is way too thick ... Might be good for the door windows but the hatch window could probably drop down a click or two.
here's how the rattle can'd wheels came out ... used the duplicolor hyper silver wheel paint kit over a etched primer ... I used 2 kits ($20 each kit) the pictures make them look better than how they 'really' came out but way better than before
stubby exhaust tips (will still need trimmed) ... eliminates the Y pipe and muffler pipe(for the pikes peak event only) ... decrease back pressure and drops about 26lbs...two birds one stone...
got the base coat and pearl coat down on the hatch (the front bumper needs a little more prep work)...my landlord has a killer shop on the property has a pretty sweet paint booth that I used.
The base went down alright but some of the imperfections came through. I did as much as I could to wet-sand them out and most came out but not all. I gotta remember that this hatch isnt perfect, was only perfect on day one and the big win is that it'll take 40lbs off the car.
if I drop 40lbs from the hatch, 25lbs off the exhaust, and 40lbs off the windows(assuming I can hard-mount the door windows. I can easily get into the 2800lbs range ... which gives me a massive boner!!
Looks good to me, man, are you gonna paint the oem bumper you just cut up as well?
thank you thank you thank you ... I was really really hoping I could get +/-700hp and and under/around 2800lbs - 4:1 but bailing on the tune was a better decision based on my inexperience ... I'll keep learning and tune the car myself at some point...I got nothing but time.
I'm gonna try to get the front bumper the same color. I bought 3 sets of QX1 and I used 2 on the hatch and think I can do the front bumper with the last set.
It doesnt sit 100% flush with the hood as my radiator is pushing it out about 3/4" ... I could cut around it but I think I'm gonna keep it how it fits now ...
I'm reaching a point where I just have to call the car 'good' for next week. Luckily, the car is ready to go as it sits now ...
got the ECU back from Uprev and the idle (after warm up) was bouncing like crazy and heard some knock coming on around 5000rpm / 12psi load. Insert freakout mode check for vac leaks, check to make sure everything is connect and check the haltech map.
(insert videos)
A quick phone call to Uprev and a little reassurance that they only played with the speed limiter and OF COURSE accelerator pedal relarn, TB reset and reload my haltech tune...did it last night and everything came back like I'd expect.
dropped the car off for an rear alignment and correct the steering angle (~8* off center)
04-24-2018, 05:04 AM
