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Almost all systems will have constant power on the injectors with the ECU grounding the one to turn on as it's easier to sink current. I'm pretty sure the Haltech is this way, but it would be easy to check (if it's not in the manual). Pull one injector lead with the car on but not started. Jump the connector with a large value resistor (like 10K to 100K), if both ends are +12 you are as described.
1 and 6 look like the cylinders are burning leaner then the rest from the color of the spark plug tips, but I'm sure you already gathered that. Could be uneven fuel distribution or atomization in those cylinders.
^With that being said I can adjust individual fuel trims on each cylinder and I'll look to add a few percentages on those cylinders...
sorta makes me want to fabricate a top feed manifold ... or order one of the CJM manifolds - it's only money?
dear nissan,
we need to talk about this manifold you slapped together...
got the coils tested and nothing jumped out at me, put new #7 plugs in gapped to .028". Put the exhaust back on and put about 35miles of varying throttle & boost. I zero'd out my boost control so I only pushed 12psi (waste gate springs) and everything behaved like I expected...was able to hit 129 on a longer stretch with no hesitations.
Got the OEM hatch off the car and got the lexan glued into the fg hatch. The OEM as it came off was right around 76lbs. The FG hatch is 20.5lbs, 1/4" lexan is 13.5lbs is coming in at just under 34lbs ... so a healthy ~40lbs drop ... It's not perfect by any stretch of the imagination (and maybe I'm just being critical)...I'll hold judgement until I see it on the car and until I can give it a few rounds of buffing compound.
I dont like the 1/4" lexan and I may pick up a piece of 1/8" - but I put the work into the 1/4" so it's gonna get a chance...
Something I've been meaning to do for awhile is a battery shut-off switch ... the water meth kit and the mini-alternator both have small leaks and they'll drain the mini-battery in 6 or 8 hours so to install something that'll easily disconnect power is helpful. Also adds a light layer of anti-theft to a novice car theif...
I think the hatch is a damn near complete loss... Passenger side fits just like you'd expect but the driver's side has a 1/2" - 3/4" gap ... I believe this gap was from when I filled the interior compartments with expanding foam...**** **** **** ... that's a $250 mistake!
it wasnt this far off when I test-fitted it...I'm half over it and half pissed.
If there's a silver lining it's that this opens the door for a dry carbon variant ... wont be today or tomorrow but something to look forward to...
my bat-**** crazy idle (post #512) might that be because I dont have a power steering sensor input? Did the ECU go crazy bc it's getting a whack input from the non-existent sensor?
I'm google'ing but does anyone know what resistor I can drop in to 'stabilize' the signal sees from the PSP sensor?
and/or does anyone know what pressure range the PS Pump puts out?
yeah it ended up with massive disappointment.
Aquamist controller had a loose plug on the board itself which was preventing the flow control module from working properly. It sucks I noticed that at the end after running all the lines and connecting all the wiring. Not sure if you installed Aquamist before but wiring that kit is alot more work than an AEM kit or snow performance. I wish I tested the kit before I did all that work. Oh, and this all was one day before the dyno. So getting it sorted out wasnt an option.
Dyno didnt end up where I wanted either, car made 620whp and 611wtq at 14psi with alot of room left for more. Coolant kept on getting pushed back into the over flow tank at anything over that power. We think its either bad head gasket or heads are lifting over that power level. I dunno if I have the motivation to work on it anymore, I either gonna keep driving it till it blows or part it out.
Dyno didnt end up where I wanted either, car made 620whp and 611wtq at 14psi with alot of room left for more. Coolant kept on getting pushed back into the over flow tank at anything over that power. We think its either bad head gasket or heads are lifting over that power level. I dunno if I have the motivation to work on it anymore, I either gonna keep driving it till it blows or part it out.
yeah it ended up with massive disappointment.
Aquamist controller had a loose plug on the board itself which was preventing the flow control module from working properly. It sucks I noticed that at the end after running all the lines and connecting all the wiring. Not sure if you installed Aquamist before but wiring that kit is alot more work than an AEM kit or snow performance. I wish I tested the kit before I did all that work. Oh, and this all was one day before the dyno. So getting it sorted out wasnt an option.
Dyno didnt end up where I wanted either, car made 620whp and 611wtq at 14psi with alot of room left for more. Coolant kept on getting pushed back into the over flow tank at anything over that power. We think its either bad head gasket or heads are lifting over that power level. I dunno if I have the motivation to work on it anymore, I either gonna keep driving it till it blows or part it out.
Sorry to hear the disappointment but thankfully nothing blew up...
if it makes you feel better my boost control solenoid was hooked up to the wrong port on the haltech and I could exceed waste gate spring pressure on my dyno-tune session...sht happens ...
nah - I have the AEM kit ...
great numbers for 14psi ... I did 477hp on 12psi (gotta love elevation)
If it was me (and you probably already know this and are doing it) I'd dial it back and re-torque your headstuds ... run the car at ~10psi and watch/listen/feel how the car runs for a few weeks ... inch up your boost (assuming youre using a boost controller) and see how the car does. If you do need to replace head gaskets at least its fixable with minimal cash for parts (albeit a good chunk of time - assuming you can do the work yourself and not a blown motor. If I had to be an azzhole and guess, I would speculate that your heads arent sealing correctly ... many people make that power with the right supporting mods and L19s...might be good measure to break the engine down, inspect everything, replace the gaskets, and retorque the heads.
it should be noted that I am bat-shirt crazy ... just a bit, just a tiny bit...
Sitting on the couch a few weeks back and saw a promo ad for nascar and I noticed sad excuses of headlights on the cars and I thought they could totally do better than the excuses they paint/stick on.
And it dawned on me ... find a set of junker headlights...gut them and use them during events where you dont need headlights.
Member Matthew Bouchard totally stepped up and hooked me up with a set of old headlights! I cant thank you enough Matt!! Thank you thank you thank you!!
as weight is becoming harder and harder to remove off the car this takes weight off the hardest place to remove weight (the front of the car).
My OEM lights are 6.28lbs each and I was able to get these donor lights down to 1.96lbs each ... a total weight savings of ~8.64lbs ... This probably doesnt mean much to anyone on earth but it's pretty big to me.
My madness:
remove 30 items that weigh 5lbs/each (150lbs)
remove 20 items that weigh 10lbs/each (200lbs)
remove 6 items that weigh 30lbs/each (180lbs)
remove 3 items that weigh 60lbs/each (180lbs)
and before you know it ... you're 700lbs lighter...
If anyone wants the internal remnants feel free to shoot me a PM...
for future reference, anyone considering the swivel-style AN fittings - dont do it ... they leak every so slightly...nothing that drips and lands on the garage floor but enough on the undershield to **** you off...
I didn't...Obviously rolled some video of it, if I was smart/smarter I would have data logged a few minutes of it and possibly some driving while it was erratic to dig in a little deeper.
I can only assume it was something temperature related but I've driven the car in just as hot of weather and pushed the car in a similar fashion (boost wise) and I cant re-create it.
I think my short term solution is to replace spark plugs (done) and replace coils...
I'm gonna try to get out to the track on Wednesday and do some 1/4mi pulls - see how the car does.
EDIT:
It's Wednesday afternoon and I'm going to the track (drag strip) tonight...The car was filthy so I got a quick wash in at lunch...and surer than sht the erratic idle is back.
I got back to the office, sweating bullets getting through south Denver lunch traffic and parked the car. I did notice that the manifold pressure / vac gauge behaved different - in that it it was hanging around 0 in*hg/0psi while it was in this state / didnt drop down to the normal 14 in*hg like it normally would.
Someone above (hat tip) mentioned a vac leak and this is similar to how a vac leak causes an erratic idle. After some mental gymnastics I thought it could be the BOV sticking shut and not allowing pressure to escape the system. The haltech is just doing it's job adjusting fuel based off the MAP sensor (hence the idle spikes).
It made sense...I went back out to the car, started it and drove to the opposite side of the lot. At this point the idle is normal. I open the hood to feel the plunger valve of the BOV and it was definitely sticking - still moving but had some stick to it. So I manually pushed it up and down and it felt better. I'm gonna get to the track early to swap tires and I'll remove the BOV and further investigate, clean, and reinstall. I'll keep everyone posted.
With the above information and feeling better about the car decided to still get a few passes in. Gates were at 4pm and I had to bounce around 8:30pm as I had a skate.
Arrived around 3:30pm and while inline switched out tires, paid, got in, tech'd, and got ready to run. Prob took my first pass around 5pm and it was ***** hot - I think it was in the low to mid 90s! Took another run right after and the car started to overheat while in line. ETCs reached 220 degrees before I got the 2nd pass in. ECTs dropped after the pass and after some mild 30mph driving around the facility. In reality, I should have shut the car down while waiting in line prior to my run (rookie move, lol).
I didnt have a chance to do anything with the BOV and I believe it was stuck partially open as I was only hitting 10psi of boost.
My second run sucked - RT sucked, launch wasnt great, missed 5th and I decided to shut the car down and watch other runs while ambient temps dropped a bit.
Got two more passes in before the end of the night.
Overall it was a good experience and I'll see about getting there for their next session on August 1. The car came in at 3035lbs with about 3/4tank of fuel, 5 gall of water/meth, fire suppression system still in place and I had a box of car stuff (I should have taken out).
I filled the tank with the 100oct fuel I had from Pikes Peak and listening to the engine I didnt hear detonation via the det-cans. The car felt slower than I was used to (albeit I had no duty cycle applied to the boost control solenoid in the haltech and I possibly was leaking from the BOV). So for 10psi worth of boost pressure it did well. I appreciate the weight reduction as it seems like the car really accelerates quickly past 45mph...maybe it's just the turbos creating/maintaining positive boost pressure, or maybe it's just in my head.
I fixed / serviced the BOV by cleaning/lubricating (with silicone spray) the 'bearing' between the body of BOV and shaft of the plunger valve. I also swapped out to a stiffer spring.
Goals for the August 1 session:
1. Get the car below 2950lbs by run 1/4 to 1/2 tank of gas (-40lbs), 2 gallons of water/meth (-24lbs), install fake headlights (-8lbs), remove box of stuff (-12lbs), take the Y-pipe and exhaust pipe off (-21lbs) and if I can get the lexan side windows fab'd up that would be tities (-30lbs).
2. Running slightly more boost (12psi - 15psi) and ensure BOV is functioning properly
3. Keep reaction times between .1 and .2 seconds
4. Hit 110mph+ under 13.5seconds
gone further batsht ... I think (and if it doesnt happen I wont be too too upset) I'm going to do my absolute best to get below 2900lbs ... if the scale reads 28xy I'll be stoked.
Not sure if lexan side windows are going to produce the weight loss I originally thought it would. OEM windows are around 10lbs ... lexan will be in the 7lb range and it'll be a difficult task to mold/bend them to mimic OEM windows. I've already purchased the lexan so I'll give it a go...in the mean time it may be temporary (drops 4lbs from the panel and removing the window motor- which wasnt working before).
06-22-2018, 12:55 PM
